ATTN: Inovatek users

[pHaestus]

You probably know this already, but you need to use an additive to fight corrosion with these blocks. No really. Check this out:

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=69712#post69712

ewww.

In related news, I am now using a modified Swiftech MCW462UH :)

[hara]

Doesn't the swiftech suffer from the same problem?

[pHaestus]

I am using nylon barbs on the swiftech and so it is less likely they will cut through the anaodizing of the top. Swiftech also has a gasket between the alum top and the copper baseplate which presumably would prevent metal to metal contact. If the anodizing isnt perfect and dissimilar bare metals touch then that's when bad things like this happen.

I have water wetter in the loop now anyway :)

[Arcturius]

I thought that the water with a few (million) free ions was enough of an electrolyte to cause problems, and thus making an electrical connection between dissimilar metals?...

[Since87]

Originally posted by Arcturius
I thought that the water with a few (million) free ions was enough of an electrolyte to cause problems, and thus making an electrical connection between dissimilar metals?...

Yes, but the electrical path through the electrolyte is just one part of the circuit necessary to have galvanic corrosion.

You also need a metal to metal connection (between the copper and the aluminum) to complete the loop. Without the metal to metal connection the two metals will be at whatever voltage differential is determined by the different electropotentials of the metals. Shorting out the 'battery' formed by two different metals with an electrolyte between them, is what causes problems.

[Pritorian]

BTW pHaestus, How did your rad look?

Was it full of that white stuff too?

And if it was how did u clean it?

I have an old rad laying here with that problem and i tried rinsing it with all kinds of acids and stuff like that, but it´s not clean yet...