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View Full Version : #Rotor's - Composite Air Duct How 2 Is up!


Joe
07-01-2003, 01:05 AM
#Rotor's first guest article on ProCooling is posted!. This is a rather new way (in the computer world) for this to be done. Normally people will take PVC, cardboard, or just plain ole Duct Tape to make ducts. The #Rotor method for these are much nicer and look very professional when done. Worth a look for any one who is into serious air cooling or watercooling!

Get the goods here (http://www.procooling.com/articles/html/how_to_make_a_composite_air_du.php)

pHaestus
07-02-2003, 03:13 AM
No comments? I for one will definitely make use of this method in the future. Thanks #rotor!

bigben2k
07-02-2003, 07:53 AM
I agree: it's an article that we've been needing.

edit: AMDMB posted a link to it.

MadHacker
07-02-2003, 02:25 PM
IN reading the article
Originally from How to Make a Composite Shroud articleIn this example, I'm having the fan on a slight incline, so as to miss some annoyingly large PCI cards in my rig. This is where the customization possibilities of the method will come in real handy.

When I first saw a picture in this (http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6887) thread showing the slight incline I originaly thought it was to decrease the effect of teh dead spot on fans.

Other then "to miss some annoyingly large PCI cards" is there any other advantage of putting an incline on the fan?

bigben2k
07-02-2003, 03:59 PM
A note of progress: the automotive blower I picked up, works perfectly at a mere 5 volts.

Now to build a shroud for it, and duct it to my heatercore!;)

#Rotor
07-02-2003, 09:04 PM
yar welcome :)

as for the inclination of the fan, I can't imagine it to have any worth while benefit or disadvantage, other than what I did it for... as long as there is breathing room between the fan and the radiator, any Dead-spot would be hard pressed to maintain composure.

bigben2k
07-02-2003, 09:10 PM
FWIW...


The way I work with fiberglass and resin, is that I make a shape out of styrofoam first, then dip the fiberglass in the resin mix, to cover the foam shape.

Once dry, the foam can be simply dissolved with acetone. Any styrofoam will work.

All precautions for fumes and gas should be applied.

ftjandra
07-24-2003, 08:21 PM
Do you remove the acrylic pieces once the resin is dry, or does it become 'one' with the shroud?

Joe
07-25-2003, 12:52 AM
Yeh that was one item I didnt see covered. I think they become part of the shroud.

ftjandra
07-25-2003, 10:15 AM
But it looks like that he didn't even remove the protective covering of the acrylic flange piece...

Nuson
07-25-2003, 03:43 PM
nice, rotor. Got any pics of this thing in your system?

msv
07-30-2003, 08:36 AM
Wow. The first pic I´ve ever seen of a 1968 Daihatsu Berlina... Do you still have it? Did You keep the original parts?
regards
Mikael S.

#Rotor
07-31-2003, 05:22 PM
Still have it yes....

Unfortunately nothing other than the roof is still stock... :D everything has been fiberglassed, stiffened, replaced or modded. the front-end is completely re manufactured into a one-piece.

It had a 4 cylinder 1000CC engine in it, this, obviously had to make way very fast, no piston engines in any of my cars..... :) as it stands there, it is gone run a 1308cc Monster-port 13B with probably a home brew Fuel injection system or else a 750 Holley. Might even consider a set of 46mm smoothbore Mikuni's........ will have to see how I feel about it.... The rear end will proly get a modded BMW suspension, once I get round to doing it. The diff it has in now, is definitely not going to be able to handle the 450+BHP...
The car complete, weighs in at just a tad over 1015 Kg. with a weight distribution of 513Kg on the front axle and 502Kg on the rear. almost perfect. though with gas in the tank the rear end is gona be a tag over the front.

here is what it looked like in std attire
http://3rotor.homelinux.com/htmls/cars_bikes/gxd_original.jpg

Scary actually :D
http://3rotor.homelinux.com/htmls/cars_bikes/gxd_now.jpg

#Rotor
08-05-2003, 05:07 PM
Originally posted by ftjandra
Do you remove the acrylic pieces once the resin is dry, or does it become 'one' with the shroud?


nope... I leave them there, gives for a much more rigid result, as well as making it easy to drill-tap some holes into it.

The covering I leave on during manufacture, only right at the end, do I remove it, rendering the exposed surface nice and clean, free from any sticky finger marks and resin blobs.... :)

Brians256
01-28-2004, 03:56 PM
#Rotor, do you use the epoxy resin for the strength or the normal poly resin for cost reasons? It looks like you are using the normal poly resin, but I didn't see for sure.