Wattage Dissapation (sp?)

[oO-ShadowCat-Oo]

Ok, I'm new to these forums, so first off i'll say hi to everybody.

Hi

Now for my QUESTION:

What kinda wattage can a waterblock being fed with 0 to -10 degree C coolant dissapate?

Reason I ask is because I want to use a pelt/WC'd setup but don't know what the max wattage a waterblock can remove is. I'm planning on the MCW462 if that will help at all... also a 250GPH pump.

Thanx for any help in advance, bye

[Joe]

there are a good number of variables, most of which are:

1. Efficiency of the waterblock in conducting heat to the coolant.
2. Efficiency of the radiator or whatever heat exchanger you use to get rid of the heat generated
3. Coolant Mix

most cooling loops nowadays can get rid of prolly close to 200watts of heat. at that its on the threshold of needing a damn big system once you get over that.

Its VERY dependant on the exact setup though. Gabe has told me his blocks ( swiftec) will move very high wattage. its really all about what you do with the heat. What radiator you using?
(if you were properly Ill-informed as we are, you will be using a stacked plate radiator, but shhhhh don't tell BillA he will get all crabby about it and start pouting again.)


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C-ya
Joe - Owner/Editor
www.ProCooling.com
Where the Completely Addicted Come to Cool Off

Somebody set up us the bomb.

[oO-ShadowCat-Oo]

Hahah, I'm not using a radiator Joe, note the 0 to -10 C coolant http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif no radiator gunna do that for ya. As for how I keep it that cool, its for me to know and you to find out once its all set up http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif AND ITS NOT A BIG VAT OF ICE EITHER! LOL

Anyways though, Could you ask and see with the guy from swiftec what kinda wattage it can move? Would be a real help because I am making the decision between 1 or 2 pelts on the processor and don't want to fry anything or waste money on one i'm not going to use.

Thanks in advace

-SC-

[Joe]

well you are prolly just running the coolant though a lab chiller. which is cool. you shouldnt have much if any issues with pulling a considerable amount of heat with that.

Gabe told me it can cool one 150watt 48mm pelt. I dont think many people have tried stacking 150watt pelts, as at the temps it will go to you will loose a good deal of efficency. you'd do better if you ran them in parralel ( efficency wise) bu you will have trouble finding a block to cool like that.

Also your chiller or just compressor/cooler unit you are using will have a max heat dissapation limit itself. You wouldnt want some expensive equiptment shutting down or overheating.

well gotta get back to work,

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C-ya
Joe - Owner/Editor
www.ProCooling.com
Where the Completely Addicted Come to Cool Off

Somebody set up us the bomb.

[Freakyfrank]

joe... also got a Q..

i've got :
a nice big radiator (one and a halve cdrom drive) with a 100 CFM papst..
a 285 GPH waterpump..
OC'ed Cel-II 600 ->50W

i'm gonna get :
2 big-ass 156W pelts
1cm(3/8") thick coper coldplate..
maybe another papst (there's place for em)
a self-made 16V 32A PSU...
5/8" tubing...

i'm planning to let the water flow directly over the peltiers hotside..

You think my setup is gonna get rid of 350W's of heat???

or do i need another papst (which will come anyway http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif ) or a REAL coolblock..

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OC'ing is my middlename

[Joe]

Ahhh yer the one chip is working on http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif

he told me bout the 2 156watt pelts.. nice you get em from Tedist?
350watts? owch... Get another fan on that radiator!

------------------
C-ya
Joe - Owner/Editor
www.ProCooling.com
Where the Completely Addicted Come to Cool Off

Somebody set up us the bomb.

[Alives]

I hope youre not planning on using a household refridgerator to cool. I made that mistake at first. You have to look at heat as moving atoms. Temperature is actually the average speed of these atoms. the processor will generate some heat...this is absorbed quickly by a peltier and shoved into a waterblock. the waterblock heats up and starts making the water's atoms move faster. The end product will be the heat being abosrbed into the air (no matter what you are using...radiators send heat to the air, refridgerators also send it to the air with their coils in the back). this is why those people who say they have peltiers cooling their radiators are ignorant. sure you can cool your radiator with a peltier, but youre only moving the heat. you have to get rid of the heat from the peltier then or a "traffic jam" will occur and the heat will start to build up. dont be dumb...jump on the bandwagon and do what everyone else is doing with radiators...unless you live in the arctic circle...

[Cablepro]

would one of those dorm fridges be good enough if I have a radiator right before the fridge with fans cooling it to pull some of the heat away, and then a radiator INSIDE the fridge submerged in liquid?

[Alives]

No. And i ruined my dorm fridge trying to do it. You end up wiht the resivoir getting hotter and hotter and the fridge just stays on all the time. This means it cant pump the heat away fast enough because its not designed to constantly be cooling things. When you put something in the fridge normally the fridge will move the heat from it to its coils on the back. Once the inside has cooled to the set temperature the only reason it will have to turn on again is from heat seeping through its walls. They arent very efficient cooling devices.

[oO-ShadowCat-Oo]

I'm not using a household fridge to do it. Leaving the door open for 5 seconds lets all the coolness out. How could it keep the same level with a 250GPH pump removing it? hah!

I would comment on the pelt/radiator issue, but I don't want to give too much away. My parts are coming in as we speak, so as long as nothing is defective this project WILL come about http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif

-SC-

[Alives]

I think its safe to suggest to us what youre doing...were only here to help. If you are worried about people stealing your ideas, its gonna happen anyway when you go public. At least if you tell us we can help you and suggest stuff to make it work better or tell you it wont work...

[Squishyface]

ack....i was thinking about running a wc setup through a dorm fridge.. HRM....

So...is just using a nice radiator with a bunch of 120mm fans cooling it enough to cool a 156W pelt system?

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1.2Tbird @1456 with winter air cooling...yeah baby!

[oO-ShadowCat-Oo]

This setup is getting EXPENSIVE! christ... oh well, already started, now just need to finish. Swiftech is one of my last waiting points... Other than that, the PSU should be here tommorow. I still need to order... 2 or 3 more things, then all should be ready. BTW, this is not just a dream of mine :P It is GOING to happen, specially since I've payed 600 for cooling parts so far, and another 300 coming up w/the last few orders. Thats not including 450$ for an KT7A and TBird 1200 that are sitting beside me unused... sigh...

[Freakyfrank]

letme guess. you've orderd a r134 system and now you need to fill em.. http://www.procooling.com/ubb/wink.gif

why dont u go for a ethane (r107) system.. -80C??
2-stage of course..


[This message has been edited by Freakyfrank (edited 02-12-2001).]

[oO-ShadowCat-Oo]

I'm not a very great chemist. So what kinda properties to ethane have?

[Freakyfrank]

evaporation temp = -88,6C..

so that shit is (almost) the best..

r502/r22/r404 envirosafe replacement is 95% propane and 5% ethane.. ethane lowers the evaporation temp of propane (-5C or sth)

but u need a special compressor for it..
but since youre spending already that much money... http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif

once u've found one... plz tell me!!

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OC'ing is my middlename

[This message has been edited by Freakyfrank (edited 02-13-2001).]