anyb experience with WC without Wblocks?

[Freakyfrank]

I'm gonna get 2x 156W pelts (still 1 week waiting http://www.procooling.com/ubb/frown.gif)

I want to cool the hotsides directly with a waterflow going over them..

anybody experience with it??
i know it can be veerryy messy http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif

or do I need to custom build myself a double waterblock...



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OC'ing is my middlename

[SYX]

You need to have a strong case. If you can get the PVC top that many use, cut it and epoxy. It'll do awesome. It's better to have a water block tho, it acts like cold plate.

[Joe]

I agree that a waterblock is the best thing you can do. You would have a hard time cooling the entire face of the pelt by epoxy'n a cap on it.

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C-ya
Joe - Owner/Editor
www.ProCooling.com
Where the Completely Addicted Come to Cool Off

Somebody set up us the bomb.

[Freakyfrank]

cooling the entire hotside isn't a problem..

I can make a good strong case out of PVC..

a 285GPH pump will be pumping the water.. the water loops every 1.5seconds..

by removing the waterblock you'll get rid of another Tdelta.. u agree with that?

joe:
that marine goop u use will suit the job (filling up around the pelts) or not?
-good thermal isolating property
-flexible

SYX:
It'll do awesome. It's better to have a water block tho, it acts like cold plate.

since the water will flow over the entire surface.. a heat spreader isnt needed..


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OC'ing is my middlename

[Rich W]

In theory it would do better because you remove an interface (the waterblock-peltier interface).. but in practice, it would be difficult. If you could construct the box (indeed, you would need to) so that the peltier 'fit' inside it, and *NOT* so that the cap fit on the peltier. If you made it so that the cap fit on the peltier's hot side, then the edges of the PVC (or whatever the cap is made of) would cover part of the peltier's surface... and (I know from experience) that even having a VERY slight amount of a peltier's dimenion not being directly cooled will result in rapid overheating. If you construct the cap so that the peltier fits 'inside' the cap, and then is sealed somehow, it would work a lot better.... ie, no part of the hot side would be covered so as not to be cooled by the water.

My experience with protruding edges of peltiers has shown me that you can have something like 1/3 or 1/2 of a mm sticking out on a side (since there are no P/N junctions the close to the edge).. but anymore overhang than that and you run into problem REAL quickly. That is why a water jacket is better unless you are REALLY careful.... you can cool the entire face of the hot side, but you still have one interface to introduce inefficiencies.. You can minimize these by using copper water blocks, high turbulence designs, and silver thermal paste.

Hope it helps!
Rich W.

[Freakyfrank]

1cm thick copper colcplate.. (3/8")
arctic silver
|2 TEC's+marine goop|
|clamping mechanism|
+___box of pvc_____+

the box would have a margin over the tec's
the margins will be filled up with flexible goop..

the clamping mechanism will be two little copper beams that will be clamped on the TEC's with plastic screws in the coldplate..

and obstacles at the top of the box.. for creating some xtra turbulence

but if there's little difference in the efficiency I'll take my chances..


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OC'ing is my middlename

[This message has been edited by Freakyfrank (edited 02-04-2001).]

[SYX]

The waterblock will get heat first and spread it around the walls also therefore you'll have more surface that water will touch. More surface=good.

[This message has been edited by SYX (edited 02-04-2001).]

[Freakyfrank]

more waterflow = also good..

a 288GPH pump will do it eh?

5/8" hoses... so..

[Joe]

Freaky,

Nope a tuned water flow is best. I am going to be doing some serious modding to DH3's cooling system to incorporate some valves to control the coolant flow for the final setup.

From everything I have read its the best way to drop your cooling temps a bit.

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C-ya
Joe - Owner/Editor
www.ProCooling.com
Where the Completely Addicted Come to Cool Off

Somebody set up us the bomb.

[Freakyfrank]

thanx joe http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif

i've been reading... (again http://www.procooling.com/ubb/smile.gif)

u have to 'tune' the waterflow so.. that the most temp gained on the waterblock is lost to the ambient... so the temp on the outlet of the radiator SHOULD be almost like the ambient temp...

(get that sensor on the outlet http://www.procooling.com/ubb/tongue.gif)

thanx for replying.. I found out that surface area is the keyword...
(and its much easier)



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OC'ing is my middlename