Right on m8!
Now for the o-ring groove...:D (that's what I'm working on today!) |
hehe, thx. too bad there is no easy(fast) way to judge a block. using it now after a quick and dirty leak test.
what can be said now; water temps are definetely higher, without having reseated the block 5 times, that must mean the block is doing a slightly better job. with 1 bigmomma + 4/3 bigmomma in parallel getting 1°C higher watertemp is an accomplishment. now comes the challenge of really fine tuning the method. baseplate thickness, flow resistance,... will update when i get a better hold on temps. |
Oh yeah, pls do!!! And don't forget to post the (arctic) room temp!:p
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ok
ambient arctic room temp 16.6 - 16.8°C watertemp old 18.4 watertemp new 19.0 i'm a very hot guy, so i have no trouble enduring those temps (as long as my fingers don't require gloves, theres nothing an extra layer of clothing won't fix) problem is i'm to lazy to get someone over to hook the gas stove up. thus /me comes home, puts the 2 pc's in 3dmark loop and ambient rises from 14.5 to 16.8(jippee) in +/- 2hrs. now who needs a stove, just up the vcore some if u want some extra heat. |
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hmm i'm constantly in a tshirt in temps like glamour... but my body temp is more like 35.5-35.8 :D
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OMG, do u have a death certificate?:p
/just kidding/ maybe to reconsider to change the nick from dax to Yeti? /yeah, same again... Cheers! |
Hey guys, what happened to Nulla dies sine linea???:D
What's up? Or down? Where are those temps, curses or yipiieeee's?:p |
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I'm seriously considering making one of these blocks.
However seeing as I have a Mill I would simply mill the area out side about 3-4cm square around the core to allow easy flow. Now making it with a mill: I can either drill all the holes and then join with a smallish bit. Or I could just make a crossgrid of channels? Any ideas for a good Milled version? I'll whip up a pic actually. |
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Heres a pic:
I could also do diagonal channels away from the core, or channels at 45 degrees to the core through the hole thing (I have a vice that can rotate 360 Degrees - also how do I do the little circle symbol for degrees?) |
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Just be sure to use a short, stiff drill bit! Bob |
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I think you're better to drill the holes, than connect 'em with mill bit. It will go faster, and you gain small drill bit pits in the bottom for added surface and turbulence. Morphling1 made one similar just with the mill, do a search for his threads on blocks... Merry Christmass, and Good luck!!!:cool: |
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I presume by Drill Cycle you are refferring to CNC, which I dont have (Unless its part of my mysterious extra Christmas present from my dad) As for doing it by drill, is there any advantage over just having many little pins? Or would I just be best to make a Cathar style block? I believe the drill and small achannel design came about because of the way of manufacture, not necessarily a series of joined drilled holes having better performance than many channels crossing, to form many pins. |
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I think I'll mill out the area all around the exit barbs, drill a nice grid of holes in the middle and join with as small a mill bit as I can get (I just broke my 1/8th bit, makes you feel like shit when you do that sort stuff for the first time) |
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LOL, braking those things surely doesn't make me happy, they're hard to get in shops here... That pic you posted looks similar to jaydee's Lemon block he made, there's a thread he made here in this section, but he made it in alu and complete with the mill. Milling the area around the outlets is very good idea, remove as much restriction in these parts as possible, and ofcourse, post the results (and pics!!!);) Cheers! |
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Should also have some pics of my GPU design that I hope works. |
Any idea on the optimal size for the holes?
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Dunno if they're optimal, but I tried 12 mm ID inlet, 10 mm ID outlets, it worked good, than switched to 10 mm ID inlet, 12 mm ID outlets, gained 1 °C on first block. All tubing I have is 12 mm ID...:)
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Here is an example (part of my old pump-block mod) of what you can do if you take to the hole grid with a hand power drill at an extreme angle using a 3mm drill bit. It takes a fair bit of practice and control to keep the drill where you want it, but you can end up with a Cathar esque block using only drills:cool: http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/PB_assembly2.jpg |
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I made the grid with 4 mm spacing between the center of the holes, than drilled with 3.3 mm bit... |
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I dont know if this has been tried but have you thought of something alonge these lines. setup your dremil in a smililar mannar as they did in this thread
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5270 but instead of making the x shape that they did, kinda grind down the top of it a bit then just make parallel channels like cathar did. anyway it might be worth a try or if someone already has done it post your performance here. |
excuse me, but how do you seal the block, with screws only?
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