Right on m8!

Now for the o-ring groove...:D (that's what I'm working on today!)

hehe, thx. too bad there is no easy(fast) way to judge a block. using it now after a quick and dirty leak test.

what can be said now;

water temps are definetely higher, without having reseated the block 5 times, that must mean the block is doing a slightly better job. with 1 bigmomma + 4/3 bigmomma in parallel getting 1°C higher watertemp is an accomplishment.

now comes the challenge of really fine tuning the method. baseplate thickness, flow resistance,...

will update when i get a better hold on temps.

Oh yeah, pls do!!! And don't forget to post the (arctic) room temp!:p

ok

ambient arctic room temp 16.6 - 16.8°C
watertemp old 18.4
watertemp new 19.0

i'm a very hot guy, so i have no trouble enduring those temps (as long as my fingers don't require gloves, theres nothing an extra layer of clothing won't fix)

problem is i'm to lazy to get someone over to hook the gas stove up. thus /me comes home, puts the 2 pc's in 3dmark loop and ambient rises from 14.5 to 16.8(jippee) in +/- 2hrs. now who needs a stove, just up the vcore some if u want some extra heat.

LOL, yup, I agree, but I like to be in my T-shirt all the time at home, and being in only a T-shirt and seeing my breath is not good for my fluid temp of 36.6 C average...;)

hmm i'm constantly in a tshirt in temps like glamour... but my body temp is more like 35.5-35.8 :D

OMG, do u have a death certificate?:p

/just kidding/

maybe to reconsider to change the nick from dax to Yeti?

/yeah, same again...

Cheers!

Hey guys, what happened to Nulla dies sine linea???:D

What's up? Or down? Where are those temps, curses or yipiieeee's?:p

You can't tell the performance of a waterblock by the water temp. A good and bad waterblock will have the same water temp if they have the same flow rate (provided everything else is the same). Changing the flow rate, due to a more/less resistant block can change the water temp, but it won't mean that the block is performing better or worse. Once equilibrium is reached, all blocks, air or water, will absorb the same amount of heat (on the same system), regardless of how good they are.

I'm seriously considering making one of these blocks.

However seeing as I have a Mill I would simply mill the area out side about 3-4cm square around the core to allow easy flow.

Now making it with a mill:

I can either drill all the holes and then join with a smallish bit. Or I could just make a crossgrid of channels?

Any ideas for a good Milled version?

I'll whip up a pic actually.

Heres a pic:

I could also do diagonal channels away from the core, or channels at 45 degrees to the core through the hole thing (I have a vice that can rotate 360 Degrees - also how do I do the little circle symbol for degrees?)

Why not just set up a drill cycle with an overlapping hole pattern? That would take care of the channels. You can vary the size of the channels by varying the amount of overlap.

Just be sure to use a short, stiff drill bit!

Bob

[Alt] + 0176 --> ° (You need to use the number pad to make this work.)

I think you're better to drill the holes, than connect 'em with mill bit. It will go faster, and you gain small drill bit pits in the bottom for added surface and turbulence.

Morphling1 made one similar just with the mill, do a search for his threads on blocks...

Merry Christmass, and

Good luck!!!:cool:

I don't get ya.

I presume by Drill Cycle you are refferring to CNC, which I dont have (Unless its part of my mysterious extra Christmas present from my dad)

As for doing it by drill, is there any advantage over just having many little pins? Or would I just be best to make a Cathar style block?

I believe the drill and small achannel design came about because of the way of manufacture, not necessarily a series of joined drilled holes having better performance than many channels crossing, to form many pins.

Ok, Noted.

I think I'll mill out the area all around the exit barbs, drill a nice grid of holes in the middle and join with as small a mill bit as I can get (I just broke my 1/8th bit, makes you feel like shit when you do that sort stuff for the first time)

I used 2 mm mill bit to connect the channels, using even smaller on a drill press is PITA, too many passes to do without a xy table...:cool:

LOL, braking those things surely doesn't make me happy, they're hard to get in shops here...

That pic you posted looks similar to jaydee's Lemon block he made, there's a thread he made here in this section, but he made it in alu and complete with the mill.
Milling the area around the outlets is very good idea, remove as much restriction in these parts as possible, and ofcourse, post the results (and pics!!!);)

Cheers!

Will do.

Should also have some pics of my GPU design that I hope works.

Any idea on the optimal size for the holes?

Dunno if they're optimal, but I tried 12 mm ID inlet, 10 mm ID outlets, it worked good, than switched to 10 mm ID inlet, 12 mm ID outlets, gained 1 °C on first block. All tubing I have is 12 mm ID...:)

I was reffering to the grid of drilled holes not the entry/exit (Which will be 1/2" bits - which I'll drill out to about 10mm ID (damn barbs are always smaller than you'd think))

I don't know what would be optimal, however in a couple of the small scale #Rotor style exprimental blocks I've made I've used 3mm holes with I think 1.5mm spacing.

Here is an example (part of my old pump-block mod) of what you can do if you take to the hole grid with a hand power drill at an extreme angle using a 3mm drill bit. It takes a fair bit of practice and control to keep the drill where you want it, but you can end up with a Cathar esque block using only drills:cool:
http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/PB_assembly2.jpg

Oooops, sorry,
I made the grid with 4 mm spacing between the center of the holes, than drilled with 3.3 mm bit...

Interesting... how did that one perform?

I dont know if this has been tried but have you thought of something alonge these lines. setup your dremil in a smililar mannar as they did in this thread

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5270

but instead of making the x shape that they did, kinda grind down the top of it a bit then just make parallel channels like cathar did. anyway it might be worth a try or if someone already has done it post your performance here.

excuse me, but how do you seal the block, with screws only?