Redken's VERY Full Tower
 

Hi guys!
After a looong time of researching and preparation (1 year on/off researching. 3 month final preparation. 1 month modding and assembly)(yes! I took my sweet, sweet time ;) ) I finally finished my first watercooling setup :) First I would like to thank ALL the people that helped me directly and in-directly to get my rig up and running from here and other forums as well :cool:
All relevant watercooling parts:

- White Water
- MCW20
- MCW50
- 1/2 Clearflex
- 2-342 heater core (2" shroud on both sides)
- 4 Panaflos 120mm L1A push/pull (1 extra for burners)
- Iwaki MD-15RLT (shrouded)
- Lian-Li Pc 70 case (very moded)
- Rest in my sig...

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/593/2324.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1322/2323.jpg

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1622/2321.jpg
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/1434/2176.jpg

This rig is cooling a very hot P4 2.4c @ 3.5, AIW 9800 450 core and NB and it's giving me 6c above ambient idle and 10c load. Although I measured using MBM5 and a temp probe I don't really know how accurate these readings are. I have asked on other threads but there is too much conflicting information and I'm lacking the tools to find out for myself. Even if I add 10c more I would still be happy with my temps :)
It was a good project and it was very worth it, I had a lot of fun and learned a lot. Looking forward to learning more from it and helping out newbees :) with what I can.

"Comments" is one of the reasons I posted this, so, any and all are welcome.
:cool:

Looks nice. Is that a second power supply in the front lowest drive cage? What is that needed for?

I'm also curious which way all of the fans are blowing.

Thanks!
No that is not a second power supply, the one I have right now can handle all the load (and a bit more). What I wanted to do was keep the PSU "look" on the back of the case, so, I cut up the back of an old psu and made a "dummy", then I soldered a power cable from the PSU to the "dummy psu". This "Dummy PSU" serves a dual purpose as it also has a working fan that helps cool down my two HDD that are right below it. Those are the ones in Raid0 (The HDD you see on top of the CD-Burners is for video stuff and misc., the space above it is reserved for 2 Raptors). It also has a working switch which comes in handy.

Looks good...
I think you have a lot more room for more stuff to fit in there...
my case has almost no room left... but i will find the place to add more... somehow :)
quick question
what is a "droop mod"? you have that in your signature...

lol yes, I do have more room, but after I put in the 2 raptors I won't be able to put in anything else and still keep the "look" I want.:)
It's known that over 1.6 volts up to 1.7 volts, the Asus boards greatly under volts which leads to instability (voltage droops). For example at 1.65v under load (prime95) it would drop to 1.52v :eek: Now I have a more stable vcore and can O/C higher.
http://img1.imageshack.us/img1/6128/DroopMod.jpg
I have seen better looking ones but this one works for me well:)

is there a site that will give an example of how to do the droop mod?
I'm not completlty happy with the overclock i have...
I have great temperatures but not the power to the chip i need...
i was reading somwhere about putting a loop around 2 or more pins on the cpu to raise the default voltage that the motherboard will provide...
was thinking of doing that...

What motherboard do you have?
I take it you are using a northwood P4? I would'nt go over 1.7v if I were you, as to avoid SNDS (what is commonly known as Sudden Northwood Death Syndrome). So, with that said, then most motherboards will provide more that enough power to the CPU

Nice I have a PC70 as well and yes it is as packed as yours and yes I have a secondary power supply in the hard drive bay. Only difference is mine is real and running all my fans to keep the strain off the main PSU.

Looks better though :(.... git.

Same MB as you have...
I also run 2.8 ghz 800Mhz FSB cpu...northwood P4? duno the name of it
I have been running it at 1.85 volts when overclocked to 3.3 ghz(255 FSB)
I'd like to squeeze as much as I can out of my CPU...
To do this droop mod would require a bit of work just to get my MB out of the case.
is it worth it?

beautiful rig you have.is it just my eyes but are the feet of your case half off the edge of the table?

I think he has to upgrade his table...
unless he want's it to fall off...
then it would go even faster... down. :evilaugh:

It was very worth it to me. Right now I'm running rock stable at a hair below 3.5 (3.48 @ 290 FSB). Before I could not reach these high speeds with my 2.4c because my vcore would drop to 1.52 (set at 1.65) which was not acceptable to me.
To do the mod just solder a 33k resistor or a 50k VR (set from 28k to 33k) and solder to these points on the board
http://www.solidhardware.com/macci/p4c800/droop2.jpg (thanks to malves for this photo)
I used the 33k resistor and the alternate solder points shown in the photo as blue dots. It took me no more than 5 min to do the actual soldering.

Also I suggest dropping down your divider to 5:4 to get the most out of your CPU and FSB. Right now your MEM is most likely holding you back.

P.S. The photo above is for the P4C ONLY not the P4P, as the P version has other solder points.

:) I put the pc on top of that table just to take the photos, guys.

thanks for the picture...
I think i will try this mod... after i RMA my MB.
Had a leak... in one of my connections from hose to copper elbows...
so i have some time now to solder barbs on all my elbows...

when i do get it up and running i won't need to drop my divider down to 5:4 because i bought some pretty quick ram... OCZ PC4200 sould go upto 275FSB

Sorry to hear that. Hope everything works out OK.

Good luck!