what do you think of this?
 

ViaAqua Model 1300 mag drive pump. Rated 400 GPH. 72"+ lift. 3 psi max. Comes with 3/8" OR 1/2" fittings. <5 db noise. LIFETIME WARRANTY.

would this work good??? BTW my monitor is sitting above my case (not ON top!) it's about 26" away from the bottom of my case

so the question (#2) is, will it screw up my monitor??

thanks guys :cool:

Hey there...

Don't know much about that pump (3psi sounds pretty low though)...but did you know that you can get Eheim from Big Al's Aquarium Services...

If you do a sympatico 411 lookup, I think they are called Aquarium Services. They have one on Steeles W of Yonge and another on Kennedy S of Ellesmere.

Big bucks for an Eheim, but that's how it is everywhere...

26" ... only 1 way to find out right??? (I think you should be okay)

it doesn't sound too bad at all really, 72" lift would indicate it's a bit gutless though

For comparison the Eheim 1250 is 79" of lift ;)
(that's delivery head for the Eheim, not max head)

I haven't heard much about these pumps, this could be a bad thing or a good thing. As far as EMI, it will probably give off a good field of radiation, though probably nothing uncontrolable. My advise is if it's much over $40 I would just save up the extra cash and buy yourself an Eheim.

hmm...

it's $56 CDN

and a Eheim (the cheapest i've seen) is around $80+ CDN

the reason i like the ViaAqua is that it's compact :D

i'm gonna go find mesurements....

if you have issues with space, look into danners, they are generally smaller for their gph. petsmart.com have them

Or try ThatPetPlace.com, they tend to have the lowest prices and have been around a while (get all my aquarium/fish stuff there). The Danner pumps are the "Supreme" series.

And for anyone interested in flow/backpressure/power consumption info on various pumps for high flow or backpressure use, check here (Eheims aren't listed because they fall below the minimum rates discussed, but you can get Eheim data from their website and see where they fit in).

Mad Scientist on the rampage
 

BTW, you can convert "pump head" to pressure and vice versa. Here's the formula:

Pressure (lbs/in2) = (Head x SpecificGravity) / 2.31

Note: The Specific Gravity of pure water at 4C is 1 (0.995 at 30C)

but 76inch should be plenty. after all ,the weight of water in all the pipes that come down from the highest point counteract the weight in all those going up a bit due to syphon effect dont they? i think that figure means you can have a piece of pipe 76inch long coming straight out of the pump and rising vertically, assuming there is a res at the bottom and the top is just open, and still pump water up it.

slop

Can't believe he's talking about head :-P
 

As far as a pump's head, the maximum head is the point at which it no longer pumps ANY water and is the distance between the pump output and the tube output. Of course, the pump flow rate drops off between the two ends (0 head and max head). It is basically another way to say how much back pressure they can handle ;) You can have ZERO height difference in your system and still have NO flow if the pressure loss (flow resistance) was high enough in your system components.

<edit> As far as the 76" issue, it all depends on the flow restrictions of your system and how much real flow you want. Again, you can compare it to the Eheim 1250 that a lot of people here use.

oooh right , cheers for clearing that up.

slop

well on to another part :D

the heater core

it's a pain to find one for a good price in T.O.
but this is the one i found and it looks good
don't know the specs yet

it's from a BMW (2002)

pic here

does it matter where the in, out is?

Danger Den has Eheim 1250 for $68.00 US Dollars plus shipping. If you are using 1/2 " silicon tube don't get any conversion stuff, like I did, it is not required.
I am not on their payroll, but I sure like my Eheim.

Go here for Danger Den

Jim

That should work. How big is that heater core looks small in the image?

Jim L

i'm not sure

i'm waiting for a reply from the seller

well i got more info :D :cool:

12 1/2" x 2 3/4" x 4"

and it's copper and brass

even the fins are copper

should i get it???

It's definitely big enough to provide good cooling, lol :)

As far as where the input/outputs are, that is strictly an issue of how easily you can hook things up in your system. If it were me and I used that core, I would cut off the ins/outs where they make the 90 degree bend.

Should you get it? Hmmm... from the picture it looks well used, not new. Being used you would have possible issues of a) leaks b) blockage and c) all kinds of cr@p inside it.

Have you tried checking out local radiator repair shops? You might be able to find a good heater core at one of them that isn't too expensive. Plus it would be pressure tested, cleaned, and come with some kind of guarantee ;)

the only nearest place is NAPA Autoparts

i was looking at there prices and it's gonna cost about $40 for a new core

i went to a auto wreakers and they wanted $50 for a used heater core from a cadi

i'll ask the seller to send me some more pics

but what about the HOLE thing being copper (even the fins)???

As far as all copper, that's good. Better thermal conduction between the core and the fins = better cooling. Only disadvantage is it would weigh slightly more.

Regarding NAPA - ask them to let you look through their heater core book. Try to find one that you like for a very popular/common car. Larger volume tends to equal lower price. In comparison to a lot of cars, Caddies aren't common.

Again - look in the yellow pages for radiator repair shops local to you ;) I would think in Toronto there would be a fair number. Oh, and do you have any AutoZone or AutoShack type stores up there (NAPA tends to be a bit more expensive for some things).

PetDMC-

Emc2 gave you a good run down. I got my ford van heater core at Auto Zone, NAPA has them too.

I am not certain that the copper fins will make a terrific difference in your setup. I totally understand your desire to get the best you can right from the start.

Knowing what I know now (which still isn't diddly BTW. LOL!) I think I would go with an Escort or Chevette heater core. I think I could get temps with those smaller cores close to what I do with this monster I now have. It is 11 1/2" X 6 1/8 X 2". The escort is 9" tall instead of 11 1/2". I think the Chevette is more of a 6" X 6", but I have to check back.

The reason I used this big a$$ core is because (2) 120 MM fans fit on it real nice. I didn't want to build a shroud or pay to have one built.

Also the Chevy Caprice 1975 heater core (same size as mine) is available at Auto Zone for $21.00, or very close to that.

All the cores listed above are brass/copper and have aluminum fins.


HTH
Jim

http://images.andale.com/f2/104/124/...lingmb.com.jpg

http://images.andale.com/f2/104/124/...ator_front.jpg

Hit by a ton of bricks
 

Jim - I just noticed something for the first time about your setup. Where you have the hose bracket attached to the copper pipe, those look like screws holding it on that go into the pipe. ???

If so, screws into pipe equals flow restriction in the pipe ;) Won't make a terrific difference, but a 1/2 degree here, 1/2 degree there all adds up :)

BTW, any luck in your search for ducting/shroud/fan stand off material? And don't downgrade your setup, you did some really nice work with it :D

Re: Hit by a ton of bricks
 

EMC2-

Well, not sure what you mean yet??
I added some images below. Are these the clamps you see? My other snaps were from a distance not very clear.

http://images.andale.com/f2/104/124/...ILLTUBEBKT.jpg


http://images.andale.com/f2/104/124/...LTUBEBKT_2.jpg


Let me know.
Jim

I think he thought those brackets were mounted right onto the pipe itself with the screws going into the pipe

Yeah, I thought the same thing. Thats what the earlier pics looked like. :)