New Res Idea, going to Lowe'sin 15min!
 

Hey all, I've been thinking of ideas on making a nice res that wouldn't take up too much space at the bottom of my case... b/c I was an IDIOT and bought an A7N266-C, which is still in the stone ages with its JUMPER settings for Vddr and Vcore, all my ideas for making a res that would fit inline with my pump and rad were pointless and my current set up prevents me from changing anything, w/o taking the pump and res out etc... So I've devised this idea, which will replace my unused 92mm blow hole at the top of my case... tell me what you think...

Thanks :)

I might change things around, but it's the basic prototype...shouldn't cost too much, I think I'll go scavenging around here (ohio-state) since this place is based on constant building to appease, er SUCKER, in new students, there should be a montain of scrap PVC stuff laying around... pEACE!

Ciao!

Heres the redone system etc...

SOB! I attached the wrong pic, that WAS what I was thinking, but THIS one is the right one

COuld someone delete that pic with the green lines etc... thanks

Looks good but you may get air bubbles in the res suction depending how forcefull the inlet "fountains" the water into the res. Have you thought of that?

That's good. It's at the top, where it should be.

I'm not sure I'd bother extending the 25mm tube at the inlet inside the res though, I think I'd prefer some kind of baffle, to let the coolant through, but the top water up.

I figured that there would be some water splash, which might cause bubbles to get sucked under, but compared to the "upside-down" T-inline I have now, which works pretty well and clears most bubbles out with in 10min, this one should be WORLDS better. I'm not trying to design the perfect one, just something that will be high up, and hold much more H20, plus the "fountaining" will add some eye candy to the top of the case, when I get a black light...IF, I've never really been a fan of wasting precious time and MONEY on candy, but it should function much more efficient...

The longer inlet tube Vs the short outlet was in quick hopes to separate incoming h2o w/air from the suction of the bottom outlet... It'll work fine I think... just have to get off here and get to Lowes/home depot... thanks :)

I guess this one is out:drool:

Damn, makes my plastic bottle look bad. :D

Hey Ben. How much liq. does it hold? That's cool looking. I bet it's pricey.

Flow direction?
 

I may be missing something but shouldn't your output from your pump go into the rad then the block then the res? That way the res would drain into the intake of the pump and prime it for you. The way you have it now, priming the pump would be a bear. Also, I think you would lose all your water pressure/velocity by pumping straight into the res. My 2c.

How about a baffle such as that shown by the yellow line to keep bubbles out of the system?

Just my to drop in on this. I think it might be easier and more effective if you try this:

I like it Ben! No place to put lights under it though....

http://home.attbi.com/~scompracer/li...es_wlasers.jpg

I've got a top mounted res V12, but it's plumbed pump out> rad > res> CPU 1> CPU2> pump intake. My res is side inlet bottom outlet. You will probably get some sound too along with the look without a baffle above the inlet. With the side inlet, I will get an occasional vortex if the water level is below 3/4 full. I just leave a small air bubble at the top of my res, otherwise no shimmering light show. With the res I still get 85GPH when I flow tested the entire system using a Via Aqua 1300.

Alas SComp, it's very "light-friendly".

As Alaric_2000 pointed out, it's actually already fitted with a provision for a led: see the flange between the intake and outlet?

I like the front plate of it, but I can't help thinking that it would look better mounted on the side, rather than the top: kinda like a washing machine effect:D The prob of course is where to mount it, since the front is out.

As for the original question, I would have to agree with ambient's pic above on how to arrange the parts of the system. But I can't stop wondering why you want to add a res? If your current T-fitting air-trap is working well (as you mentioned it is) then why add a res? Do you really drain/tweak/refill your system that often? IMHO a res just makes the case a lot heavier and dumps a lot more water on your MB if you spring a leak. I haven't drained/refilled my system yet (after a few months) and I have no intentions on opening it up any-time soon. So the fact that it takes me about an hour to fill it and about a day to bleed all the little air-bubbles out really doesn't bother me since it allows a very small/clean install with only 5 short pieces of hose and only 1 fitting (the T for my air-trap) (hehe, my system is in a 22" tower, but I bet I could fit it into a mini-tower)

Hey Ben,

Who make and sell that res???

Thanks

It's German, so unless LALA land is close to Germany, I think you'd be hard pressed to find one.

Aquacomputer unfortunatly doesn't ship to the states. At least in individual orders. They have stated they will ship bulk orders internationally though. So far no US distributors have been located. However over at [H] there's a post that a brittish distributor for aqua computer products does ship internationally. However, no prices have been finalized yet and there seems as though there is going to be a 3 month wait before the products are widely available. In europe their products are said to be very popular as there is a 5 week wait in germany where the products are made. There have been a few attempts at getting their products in the US but so far nothing has happened. There was a group buy being organized, but that died off i think when dtek announced they were planning to carry their products. However i believe someone said that dtek had problems getting responses from aqua computer so they decided to abort the idea. I don't know this for a fact, but thats what i read in a few posts at [H]. I believe it because i tried dealing with aqua computer myself to become a US distributer and after about 2 weeks of talking with them, i stopped getting responses. I did hear that they were swamped busy with Cbit or something like that. Whether we find a distributor here in the US or import from europe, you can bet that the products will cost a bit more than they do in germany. For example, i would be surprised if you could get the res for under $60 US. This is because of the cost to import the products. Whether it be the cost tfrom importing them yourself from a european distributor, or becauase a US distributor would have to recoop the money they spent on importing the products. Here's a link to the brittish distributor http://www.wizarddesigns.co.uk/ . I'd post a link to the [H] post, but i'm not sure if thats ok or not. Better safe than sorry.

-Kevin

Thanks for the info guys.:(

Oh well I guess I'll make my own.

I tried getting Tony from Plycon to become a US distributor but Aquacomputer didn't EVER return his emails or calls. He even got someone who spoke German in to negotiate things. They just ignored him.

Since it's aluminium, I'd consider asking Jaydee to make you one: he's not terribly busy these days. The thing is, it needs to be anodized, and I'm not sure he's equipped to do that.

He isn't but he knows allot of people around this town. He's even been over to my shop.

Arr bad Germans!!!:D