Watercooing from China
Coolwave Power Radiator
The new radiator is very good performance. Here is some test results for your reference. Ambient Temp 25 C Althon64 3000+ Gigabyte GA-K8VT800 Power Radiator Dual 12CM - 1577rpm fan CPU 100% 36C - die CPU Idle 31C http://www.globalchance-pc.com/coolw.../two12cm_r.jpg http://www.globalchance-pc.com/coolw.../one12cm_r.jpg |
You know, 1 post is enough...funny how you can have the same results with 2 different rads btw..and what is your test setup?
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You seem to have forgotten the test results? What you posted not only defies the laws of physics but has no real info on the radiator in question.
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Looks like someone deleted the other thread.
I posted: What was tested? How? |
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so all new products are spam ?
what am I missing ? that is not a rad I'm interested in, but the hubs are in the right position - better than the competition |
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Better than the competition? I have yet to see any test results. |
I do believe he is the mfgr looking for vendors,
that is a product for a European vendor it is interesting, ck the fan attachment 'holes' not disagreeing jd, kill the spam but do not blind yourself to also the input possible even from spam why did no one LOOK at the product ? |
"Better than the competition? I have yet to see any test results."
if you were not a convert to thinking, I'd light up your sky look at a BIX, look at this one you need a test ? - for the slow, put them on their side and bleed them all clear ? and the 'holes' need a test too ? |
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Yeah a test. Lets see why this rad is any better than a BI. Bleed? I have no problems bleeding a rad and don't care about the hole pattern either. The guy spacifically said it performs well. Whats does that mean and why did he post irrelevant numbers. |
I would have to say it is better made then the BI. They added the female threaded nut to it. You will wish you had that on the BI once you twist the soldered on tube right off when screwing in a barb.
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hmm, I had not connected the 2
jd, as a kit mfgr 'self bleeding' is quite important for each component (but not always attainable), and 'self bleeding' radiators never gurgle a kit buyer has not your experience no clue on the #s |
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classic jd
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LOL All I can do is laugh. You really are on a roll huh. What about this one? Not to mention the one you posted, you can't even change barb size if you wanted too and it has a cheap ass paint job. That's my point. |
I believe the rads in the first pics are made in Germany.....or a copy of such.
SenC |
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http://www.innovatek.de/
Close, but not quite the same. The shroud is different, with no bar across the middle. I'm not seeing any other differences. Of course, I see no reason they should be different. |
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Here is the innovatek rads.:
http://www.webshop-innovatek.de/0000...3d0a9af71.html and http://www.webshop-innovatek.de/0000...3d0a9106b.html What I found interesting was the pic attached pulled off the second link. It shows one cut open. That sure looks like all aluminum. |
Thanks for the linky there AngryAl,
sorry for not providing a full-fledged post BillA, I was in a rush..... but they look so similar nonetheless SenC. |
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I have always filled my systems before I mounted them in a case so I could properly shake them and get the air out of the system. But that's a pain in the ass, and NOT what someone new to wcing or buying a kit wants to see. Furthermore not many such users WILL do this. So a radiator design that more effectively clears all the air from the rad will have a bigger impact on cooling performance than any tweaks on fin density or other consideration. |
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Anyway, are these rads aluminum or not? If so how many newbs would stick a brass barb in those holes being there seems to be some resistance against using plastic barbs around here..... And would copper/brass be better than Aluminum overall. Also shouldn't a good professional kit be pre-filled? I know I wouldn't trust people filling their own systems if they never done it before..... |
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