New Design: Ww+rotor
1 Attachment(s)
Ok so the two most water blocks that stuck me most are cathar's ww and #rotor's design (ben don't get angry with me i did not forget your radius). On cathar's design i don't have to comment and rotor's design is effective and easy to built (not that easy but compaired to others it is).
so i tried to merge these two designes into 1, using the water velocity of cathars block and using the massive turbulance in rotor's design and i came up with this design. so this is my plan, to try this water block i am ready to buy an xy table since i don't have any cnc, but a normal drill press. i planned to first cast it out of al then when done all the mods then try it out in copper. what do you think about it. |
to be sincier i did not opt for micro channels at first, i was thinking on how to build the exit of the water after passing through the turbulant area. i thought of the dremmel cuts which rotor use to connect one whole with an other, and guess what what the design came to look like, sorry cathar if you are offened.
|
1 Attachment(s)
ok so here's some techinical detail
|
|
Quote:
yes i saw that thread, but ben look carefully, there are no pins in this block. the channels are not connected verically |
1 Attachment(s)
maybe this would help ben
|
Making a #rotor block with 2mm drill bits is quite a challenge. I wouldn't say impossible, given the right equipment.
|
Quote:
|
Hmmm, that should have an interesting effect.
I think that the gain you'll get from the additional turbulence is going to be negated by the loss of the mass of the fins. Consider a conical shape to drill, instead of a normal drill bit: it would leave a significant mass at the base of the fins. |
Quote:
|
Hmmm kay...
The fins are very carefully proportionned, so that the fin width and the channel width fall within a set ratio. Also, your proposal includes cutting into the fins, to make them thinner. By affecting this ratio, and by reducing the thickness of the fins, you are loosing some performance. BUT you might be able to gain some of it back, from the turbulence that this design is going to put into the water flow. BTW, you can cut those channels like Morphling1 did: use a circular saw blade. It should be possible to reach even 0.2 mm, but that gets tricky. |
Quote:
on the milling part, i've been thinking about circular saw blade, but i'm will do my first one using a drill press and an xy table to see what the new drill press can do that's why i'm planning to first mill it in al, it's like cutting butter |
one of the first things that i am not sure about is how large the area of turbulace should be. any suggestions
the dimentions of the current one just cover a small area further more than an amd core |
Adding to an already proven concept is very good.
IMO, the design involves the tooling required to cut a WW block. This means that to be able to do this block, one has to be able to do a white water. 7 channels (13mm), are too little. I would Increase it to about 18mm. Also, starting with aluminium is a good decision as you will waste a lot of metal perfecting the machining methods. Just a constructive suggestion. |
Oh sh*t, he's right! :D
In Alu, your baseplate is going to be a little thicker, so where WW overlaps the core by 2mm all around, in Alu, you'll want an even bigger gap. AMD core is 7.47mm by about 11 (Tbred B). |
Quote:
the height of a tbred b is about 7.5 mm. 13 mm of fins are more than enough imo (in copper) remember also that there are the holes within the fins so theoretically there are not 13mm of fins and holes but 14mm Quote:
or maybe, if i find it easy to mill in al, i could add one channel on each side |
Quote:
Bob |
Quote:
but at least milling in al first i would get some experience since i never milled a water block in my life before, and i am going to mill it using a drill press and an xy table. today i started my testing on milling. i started with a piece of steel (much harder than al to mill) and i hadn't a milling bit but normal drill bits. i found one which was split into 2 pieces, i got the piece which fixes up with the driller and used a mitresaw to flatten the bottom of the drill bit. i know that a milling bit is much better that i couldn't go and buy one today. with this method and my drill press i managed to remove about 0.5mm from a piece of steel with no lubricant or coolant (just some water). i think i would at least manage to mill that block in al with a good mill and a good xy table. hope that i am not dreaming |
Off the top of my head...
Al is pretty soft, and some endmills are available specifically for it. Copper is much harder, but can still "stick" to the cutting tool. Endmills are usually 2 or 3 flutes, preferably TIN coated (not more, not less), and made of either HSS (high speed steel) which is often a poor choice, cobalt HSS or carbon steel. If you want specifics: Google! |
But there are also carbide...or am I wrong?
What are flutes? |
Quote:
if i find somewhere i will opt also for 3 flute endmills, i know that i am looking too far but since i don't have a cnc, i need at least good mills. hara i can explain to you tomorrow at school what flutes are because i don't know how am i going to write it :mad: |
|
Flutes are the sharp edges of the endmill. If there are 2 cutting edges then it is a 2 flute, 3 cutting edges then it is a 3 flute, ect ect..
And yes Carbide is the way to go for smaller endmills. |
Quote:
what do you suggest? |
Quote:
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:24 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
(C) 2005 ProCooling.com If we in some way offend you, insult you or your people, screw your mom, beat up your dad, or poop on your porch... we're sorry... we were probably really drunk... Oh and dont steal our content bitches! Don't give us a reason to pee in your open car window this summer...