Nico:
You don't want any vapor in your capillary, it has to be liquid.The compressor already works hard by pushing the liquid through the capillary, making it uphill won't do anything.Actually, it would cause it to not cool/not cool well, and it would be able to push through the capillary much easier, since it would be a vapor.

your vapochill isn't running too hot at all.Max compartment temp would be the ambient temp of the compartment the compressor is in.
My compressor also runs near 70c or so, I haven't tested it, but I know it is hot.

Surely as the compressor winds up the filter/ dryer slowly fills up with liquid and forces the gas out until it reaches the capillary then allowing it to build up more pressure which condenses better giving you a good flow of liquid to the evaporator. I was just curious as to whether doing this uphill would great even more pressure and better condensing, or whether the liquid just would never reach the capillary?

It could actually lower pressure because just having it up and down like that won't do anything, and not much liquid will reach the capillary.Always keep the liquid line flat or pointing downward so you get a good ammount of liquid. :)

well small update.i have been working on my video gpu cooling and tiding up some hosing and condensation issues.
gpu cooler is mounted on a test stand and now i am tring to design memory coolers for my radeon 9700 pro.i used 1/4"copper tubing and 1/8" thick copper plate to cut out seperate memory block cold plates i then solded then onto the tubbing.the design is simple and low profile.here is a pic of one side.
http://members.fortunecity.com/ajr01...1423resize.jpg

:D hello

I like it.....A really nice simple idea....will you add another cold pipe for the back side of the 9700 or just bend the same pipe back on itself to cool the ram chips on the backside of the card...



I thought I'd add this link :
http://www.deviantpc.com/articles/ati9700wc/index.shtml

It's for a water block design on a 9700...would it work in a phase change situation..????:D :drool:

well yes i do have a second tube running which is attached with a y-type fitting to evenly split the coolant. so i wont over heat the last in line chips if i used one continuous piece of tubbing from front to back.with the way my chiller is running i will be able to supply the memory and gpu anywhere from -27c( gpu -50c pelt cooled ) to room temperture coolant to cool the card by slowing down my coolant flow.
i like the link you gave me, i had already been following the guys work.but i have one problem .since i have a mill i could easyly do what he did but.........i found the memory chips on the card are not perfectly in alignment.so using a one piece type cooler one or some of the memory chips will not touch flat.and it is no way to compensate for that.it all depends on the board manufactuing process and how well the board is made.
so the copper tubbing i made can be hand bent with some time.to giveme perfect contact of all the momory chips.and on the card i am also cooling the memory voltage regulator which needs to be cooled also(it has a big impact on memory speed).

well been a few days.got my rma'ed board back from abit and decieded to mount it somehow and the i attached my cooling block to the video card and i have been real time benching and load testing.put in my old xp1800 palimano chip ran voltage to 1.95 and started it up.this is a old xp1800 one of the first that came out.bad overclocker and runs real hot.
but i did manage to run a couple of 15400 3d2001se runs at only 1700mhz..i didnt think that was too shabby.seams to be cooling good.if i set the unit to a little on the overcharged side the cpu evaperator is running -37c and the chiller is running -27c this is loaded and running 3d benches.the gpu is showing a temp of -18 to -20c on the gpu.that is with my 80 watt pelt running.
now if i lower the charge a little i get -47c cpu evaperator temps but my chiller suffers.it will barely keep the coolant below 0c.but my gpu is still running -10c or so because of the pelt.this is running 3d2001 wide open.

here is a pic of all the hoses and temperary hook up.
http://members.fortunecity.com/ajr011/residedtest.jpg

What kind of cpu temperature are you getting loaded?

well i would like to know myself.......damm abit at7max2...... doesnt have the thermister in the socket like the old boards.
my old palimano xp1800 doesnt have temp diode built in.
so the new temp diode abit uses is under my neopreme socket insulation.is about 3/16" away from my cpu.and since it is insulated from the neopreme patch i used in the socket it isnt reading to good.but it does show -2c in mbm.maybe this weekend i can swap out with a xp1700 tbred i have that has in chip diode.so i will get temp reading again.i didnt use the tbred because it is a cooler running chip.i wanted the hottest heat load i had to test with.but the palomano chip should be putting out close to 95 watts of heat at this speed and wattage

Hmmm I see, will you know you can just fill your socket with dielectric grease and still use your socket temp probe.Best thing is to use a compunurse touching the cpu.

well by friend you havent seen the lastest board out have you?they no longer use i thermistor that sticks up like everyone always uses.now all you get is a diode that is flush on the circuit board.so all it does it measure the heat inside of the socket space not the chip temp.so when i use dielectric grease and insulation it actullay insulated the diode from the cpu chip temp.
and my simpson temp probe is almose touching the cpu die right now.but i did log into the bios today ,without the compressor running.that is how good my block is i can do that.about 3 minutes is what i have to play with .started the compressor on and watch the temp drop in the bios screen.and at 10f degrees the cpu core was showing 0c degrees. thats when my bios wont go any lower.so thats all i can do at the moment.

Well considering I have an Asus a7n8x I believe I do know what they look like.For some reason I missed when you said it had no socket temp probe.I thought you had an asus also.

My bios only reads to 0c also, and my thermal probe touching my cpu is pretty dead on.Bios does not go below 0c though.It locks up at 0c.

Yeah my block doesn't have the mass, so it gets warm fast.But I like that, sometimes I wan't to warm my block up to work on it/remount it.But the block itself works very well.

well every one wants to see my loaded temps on the cpu so i switched out to a tbred cpu.and finaly got mbm to work and set the temps.i ran a stressing program to maximize heat output. max temp was -17c loaded measured in the cpu diode.if you look you will see the low was -24c that was at idle so i lost 7degrees between max load and idle.my block only lost 1 degree but that is probley about right.
-14c is the temp measure at the cpu socket under the grease and insulation pad,if you notice it only looses ant 3degrees from -17c to -14c because of the insulation it doesnt see the actually cpu die temps.
by the way chiller is at -24c and video peltier is showing -24 to -20c loaded temps while i was running the program.and also chilling the northbridge to a cool 5c or so .i regualte the north bridge temp buy adjusting the vavle and slowing the water flow from the chiller.
http://members.fortunecity.com/ajr01....Capture_3.jpg

Wow those cpu's run at low voltage and heat.XP1700 @ 1663 1.57v is only about 67 watts.Get toast, it is a great stressing program.

MBM finally supports the on die diode on my board, looks like I am getting -34c loaded with my xp1600 @ 1.74 1.87v which is about 89 watts.But my system is overcharged because I am running underclocked becuase I am going to make another system.I could get some lower temps if I charged it right.

BurnK7 is much better...

well i changed chips back out.put a xp1800 palamino core back under the block.did something stupid and now i have good temps..................................i acidently unplugged my condensor fans . i dont know how long.i noticed my temps were only -10c or so and i grabbed the sight glass and almost burned me.condensor was over 70c i quickly looked for the problem exspecting my lines to blow wide open any minute from the high pressure.i had bumped the connecter from the power supply to the fans while i was checking voltages as i was benching my system.i quickly reconnected the fans and temps came down.after a couple of minutes i noticed my temps were back to a range i am used to seeing.idle after a startup was -31c showing in my windows mbm.i was adverageing -24c loaded but i will test more for that this week.the only thing i can think of is being warm in the evaperator caused my block to seat better into the chip.i use springs to hold tension from the evap block to motherboard.cpu is 1740mhz @1.95volts.and this one the ondie sensor is working.
also got video card finished except for repluming my hosing nightmare.r9700 was running 470 core and 374 memory i think?i am at work so tonight i will post a pic of temps and chilled video card .

well i took a few pictures of the modded radeon r9700.chiller cooled memory and chiller cooled peliter.and then the unit testing at once.so this might be the first all phase change cooled pc around with only one compressor.now if my new epox n-force board will arrive on this week i am benching this weekend.should have my xp2600 by then too.:p :p
http://members.fortunecity.com/ajr01...atercooled.jpg



http://members.fortunecity.com/ajr01...es/at7max2.jpg

well i know i have been busy for a while.to be honest i have been volt modding motherboards and cutting xp2600 cpu's untill i got it pretty damm fair right now.
i know a bunch of guys wanted to see my benches.well here is a small teaser.
now you must realize this is just the cpu and mother board turned up.the radeon r9700 is running at 325core and 325 memory no overclocking yet.
this is going to be a very quick set up i hope.
http://members.fortunecity.com/ajr01.../benchmark.jpg

I had teh same thing happen when I accidentally shut off my water pump! my best guess is that the TIM I'm using never gets above room temp and never has a chance to properly capallirize (is that a word?), course yours prolly never got that warm :rolleyes:

Hi, im quite new to phase change (been doing watercooling 4 awhile). and i came accross this forum which i thought was really kool:drool: . so i have just have a few questions:

1. How do you seperate the capilary tube running inside the return hose? (Maybe u said it but i just dont understand:shrug: )

2. Can you use flexible hose instead of copper pipe, or wouldnt it take the pressure.

Thanks

I was just looking at the Beginner’s class 101 by BOWMAN, and i kind of already answered my first question, but now it brought up a new question:

1. For a beginner like me it would be best for me to use a expansion valve than a capillary tubing or is the expansion valve really complex to use?. Or have i got it all wrong and you have to use both?

Also what kind of compressor did you use Bowman, a description or maybe some specifications e.g. HP, Voltage etc. to help me for maybe if i decide to get one.

Thanks

The thermal expansion valves may be problematic. I've heard people warn me that I would have difficulty at the low flow rates seen when trying to cool CPUs and GPUs. Basically, they'd stutter because they aren't designed to be able to precisely deliver very low flow rates.

Re: Phase Change project start to finish
 

Bowman1964,

Very nice job. What temp is your dischage line (3" from outlet) and your compressor sump running? Also what is your superheat?

I read in your thread that you are using 95/5 solder which is not a good thing. The solder is not an issue but the acid flux is death to refrigeration systems. You should use "Silfos" rods or if you can 45% silver solder. I also wood bleed nitrogen through your system while soldering to eliminate oxidation inside of the system. You have done a commendable job on your project.

I would really like to see your evaporator block design if possible.

Thanks...

Re: Phase Change project start to finish
 

You'll probably have to find bowman on another forum. This thread is almost three years stale, and I haven't seen many posts by him recently.

Re: Phase Change project start to finish
 

Bowman's hangout is now: xtremesystems.com
Plenty of info there too (I'm sure he knows about the silver solder by now).