At least on sunday most people don't look too much the site.

I already recomended silicone, most epoxies degrades with water.

Sunday, sunday... Want a song?


You can opt for soldering, since an o-ring is out of the question. If you want something less permanent, I guess you want to skip over the JB Weld too, so that leaves you with silicone.

THis is the top. I used a copper pipe to solder the central barb to. It transforms the circular input to a slitted output. (excuse my english)

Here's a stupid question: why didn't you just use a copper reducer?

What do you mean?

Slitted output?

Here

Sorry, doesn't fit

Damn! IT leaks with a high pressure.

Somebody asked me for the dwg. Here it is:

An idea poped my head. Are there saw blades which can make a cut < 1.6mm and able to cut copper? This would make a DIY user competent enough to produce a block which is as performing as a WW and no drillpress needed.

What do you think?

You wouldn't be referring to Morphling1's work, would you? ;) (he went for less than 1mm, with round saw blades).

The problem is that you have to have a steadily mounted, and level workbench. Not impossible.

Actually, I was refering to hacksaw blades. :)

Then you'd be referring to Volenti's work :p

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/mitre_saw.jpg

I used this (among other tools) to make my micropin block, without the other cross cuts it essentially would have been a cathar clone, channels ~1.1mm wide.

What is that type of saw called? Actually I wanted something smaller and simpler :( No need of a fansy vise for shitblock :p

Ok, so I sealed the waterblock with a two part epoxy "araldite". Will it cause problems since i've heard that epoxies degrade with water but, will it still seal the blocK?

Only time will tell ;)

but i think he would not be happy if after some time, his block will leak on the motherboard :mad:

That's the problem. It ain't leaking now but it's a lesson I can't afford to take.

they are called mitre saws. at least they are in the uk.
:)

Check out their website (Araldite) to see if it's waterproof...

I searched and found the product but in a similar package. It says it's water resistance. I'll have to trust it then :)

Nicozeg might know for sure, being the resident Resin specialist! :D ...

Ooops, being out of the forums lately; Thanks for the specialist title.

My first block had parts bonded together with quick epoxy, and it leaked at about 6 months of use. Each brand is different and I have no experience with araldite and water, but beware that being "water resistant" is not the same as "safe for continuous inmersion"

There is an easy test you can make: take two scrap pieces of cured epoxy, and leave one under water in a closed container. Degradation is slow, but you can have a hint in about a week; if there's some color difference between the parts means bad news. If after a month both look the same in color and hardness, you're safe :)

Did that test in a slightly different manner. On squirrel, the barbs where made leak proof using araldite. The araldite in contact with the water became orange and like plasticine while the part not in contact with water was still hard. What do you think?

What should I use instead? Silicone won't suite me since the area of contact is very small.