:cool:
Degustibus est non disputandum, but I find the drilled blocks PRETTY!!! All the reddish glow of freshly drilled or milled block simply brings the satisfaction of the doomed on the surface. Most people (including me) are slaves of the symmetry, and equally distributed network of the holes is just the right thing...:D

I (think :rolleyes: ) I'm finished the digging the insides of the bottom half, time for some sanding...Sorry for the pic being too crappy, but I just couldn't make that scanner do it better...

wow, respect man

that is almost totally as i would have imagined it to be ideally. that is not too far away from the atlantis design. in fact the atlantis is designed for single in - oulet; so i guess your design is an evolution for single in dual out design. way to go.


btw, i picked myself up an epox 8k5a;
factory
cpu vcore upto 2.2V !!!
mem vcore upto 3.2V
.
.
.

(necessary update after soaking my kt3ultra with a mixture of h2o + antifreeze + radiator protector)

g.l. BR34K3R of things

always the same with me, in the beginning when testing something new, i'm always very cautious, and after a while i thk i am the pro, and is start makign n00b errors (starting an amd without a heatsink attached etc.)

Thanx m8!:cool:

I'll have to search some more for better look into the Atlantis. It's the one with the 'starfish' thingie in the center below the inlet I suppose (found only pic's with the top on, not one of the disassembled block)...

I'm curious what performance with this block will be...Tomorrow I'll have the top finished, so I guess, temps soon...This making of the block goes much faster than the first one, guess it's due to all the tools at hand...Only that #Rotor's warning about the tapping the LAST hole...never leaved my mind...:p

Congrat's on the mobo! Think it's a good choice!

Sorry for the 'late' MSI, those dirty bastards don't like the bath... but this says it all (in my case too:D )
LOL, g.l. BR34K3R of things but 133t f1x0r at the end!

Cheers!

i'm very curious about the temps

because i can tell u, vcore of 2.2 will bring the best watercooler at its knees

with fans at 12V
1800+ at +/- 1760MHz
temps seem to be at +/- 46°C!!!

(whereas i used to cool passively at 100%load at 43°C - 1.85V and 1700MHz)

what i also have seemed to notice in the past, and is happening again (could be wrong)

when oc'ing to the max, when i go over 47°C its finished, hangs completely. so i guess that is where the prometia's start to kick in...

Here's the little update...:)
Got the top today, needs some more sanding. Today I figured that bottom openings of the barbs are small, so tomorrow I'll have to remove some or all of the 'ribs' under the outlets. I wanted to keep them for some benefit of structural integrity, but they'll have to go. The barbs are 10 mm ID inlet, 12 mm ID outlets... I hope tomorrow night I'll have some temps to post...Hopefully good ones...:cool:

Sorry for a 'little' big pic :rolleyes:

looking solid. am getting really curious now

Here's the pic of the assembled and sealed block... Waiting for the silicone seal to dry, then test in the kitchen sink, and hopefully, in the wc setup...DOH!

waw, thats a little faster than the former block we made, :drool:

Yeah, things are a lot easier when you know what to do and how to do it...This one was started with your principle, Cut to size, drill and TAP the holes, if everything goes fine, do rest of the job!:p

:rolleyes: About knowing what to do, this one leaked...Now I re-sealed it, still waiting to dry...

Thx for the :drool: , I appreciate it!

After two re-sealings, and five (5:mad: ) in's and out's with the barbs, spent almost all the teflon tape I had, here are the results (for now, 'puter working around three hours with the new block)...

Nothin' spectacular, at the room temp a little high, 25 C on the rad intake, idle 32 C and Cpu burn load for one hour, 38 C.

Guess the setup could use a little bit better pump, copper rad with decent intake area (this mounting of the rad under the midi tower case is not allowing it to breathe fully I think, crappy shroud 1 cm distance between fans and rad) and some decent si tubing (this pvc is kinkinnnnnnnn')... Guess I'm satisfied with the results, gonna try refine the block little more, but that'll happen when I mod the full tower case and setup the watercooling as it should be...

These are temps for amd XP 1800+ @1667 MHz, stock voltage...

that is weird, i have never had issues with sealing barbs... some teflon and gogogo

it is prolly a bit to early to judge completely, (as billA's gospel goes, mount the block 10 x ) but, for now, how do u thk it performs against the previous one?

The problem with the barbs is in 5 mm thick (or better, thin) top, and that 3/8 thread. The thread should be more dense for that thickness of the top...But lot's of teflon solved it (I was ready to epoxy bloody things when it worked at last...you must scare them to behave properly;) )...

Dunno what to say, I'm 'satisfied' for now, but not completely happy...:shrug: ...actually, I got that feeling that I should rebuild the complete system, than judge, cos' being here at the forums for several months now, I learned much to see all the flaws in my current setup. I guess that this block could do better with the right tubing size, not-kinked-outlet tubing with the proper Y, and a better pump. I didn't have time to try to measure (the fill-the-bucket method:) ) the flow, but testing the block for leaks in kitchen sink, and comparing it with the one we made in first attempt, this one is much more restrictive. Although, it works better, but not in the temps range I expected it to be, more like 30 C idle...

It's better than first one, and I'll keep it for now. Guess the first one we made would be good with pelt, but cannot try it (no pelt:D )...

It was worth the try, maybe mk3 will be little better (gonna try that deeper in the middle, shallower towards the outlets thing)...

This one is like this: center of the block is 3 mm base, first circle is 4.5 mm, second 3.5 mm, third 2.5 mm and last (outer circle) is 2 mm base. Toward the outlets I raised the base thickness for 1.5 mm, from 2 mm to 3.5 mm.

Maybe this circular pattern is not the right way to go, or I just don't know how to 'open' it good for flow...

well, better is better. there will be a point where us mere mortals won't be noticing the improvements anymore coz we don't have the right equipment for testing.

block mounting alone gets me 2°C delta in performance. try judging a block in one hour time is almost arrogance; lol

try remounting it a couple of times, thk u will get better temps

LOL, yeah, I think some more remounting of the block will be needed...;)

Funny thing, I mounted it actually three times, first and second time I got 34 C idle (for about half an hour each), then decided to remount the block with shim I removed before. I guess it helped the block to sit on the core more evenly, cos' now I got that 32 C idle...

BTW, :rolleyes: I was in a hurry wanting to see how the block will perform, and forgot to plug my pump in...Luckily, the shutdown option in the bios was fast enough, I actually started to tighten/untighten the bolts holding the block to mobo, and I saw sudden rise of the temp...My cpu is re-born today, bios shut it off on time...

woops close call. on the other hand, would have been a good excuse upgrading some more HW.

so +/- the damn thing is performing the same as your last block? maybe u went over the sweet spot flowresistance/velocity.

what was your baseplate thickness this time?

OOOHHHH, she would freak out....:)

Hmmm, it's little better of the first one, with the first block idle was 36 C on same room temp...A little improvement...

base is like this
center of the block is 3 mm base, first circle is 4.5 mm, second 3.5 mm, third 2.5 mm and last (outer circle) is 2 mm base. Toward the outlets I raised the base thickness for 1.5 mm, from 2 mm to 3.5 mm.

maybe to go thinner some more?:shrug:

Maybe that channels made with thin dremel discs are too narrow...Considering the wavy shape of the 'walls', maybe I should open the channels more with say 2 mm mill bit, there'll be still much turbulence in the channels, and the block will have less restriction... Think I'll try this one of these days when I take out this block. I don't wanna make another one with questionable results, better massacre some more this one...:cool: Snow is still waiting...giving me some more time...:p

What's happening on your side? That plexy top block?:cool:

scary, u dared getting as low as 1.5mm baseplate thickness? waw u got ballz.

well, all in all; i think hooking up another rad is going to give more temp decrease for less hastle. might get my hayden rad out of the attic and find an empty spot in my case to hook it up.

anywayz, after messing around for 3 days with my epox mobo; i seem to have found out my corsair pc2400 from last year needed to be retired (hooked up some pc2700/2.5 samsung). so i'm running reliable at 1.9V/157fsb/1820MHz. this little increase of vcore and mhz has increased my temps by about 5°C!!! looking at it from the bright side; my room temp seems to increase from 17°C to 20°C in no time with just my puter and my ol' 21" heating it. i'm wondering if there is alot more to gain by changing WB design. i'm going to try copycatting the atlantis block though in the far future, but reading your experiences makes me think that there won't be no big surprises...

:D Guess it's more like brain shortage...

I hate to say it, but you could be very very right...Until proven otherwise...

How many MHz more did you gain? The +5 C temp increase sounds horrific!?

about 100MHz

i've hit the brick wall of my chip. i shoud be unlocking my chip. but unlocking the first tbreds is a real behatch. i'm looking forward to affordable tbred B's => they should be really easy to unlock.

problem is: anything between 157 and 166 gives me pci out of spec probs. 166 (2.2V 45°C idle!!!) brings me desktop, but impossible to benchmark. i can run 156 at 1.9V whereas i used to run 149 on my msi at 1.85 (not too stable). 156 at 1.9V is stable.

the conclusion should be:

thk u epox for making a true OC'ers mobo for the incredible price of 110€ (no raid, but who needs that anyway). where i don't have to get a soldering iron to get a vmod(no warranties void at 2.2). where i can push upto 3.2 through the memory; and 1.8 through the agp...

I'm glad you're happy with your new mobo!:cool:

I took some time this afternoon to waterproof the temp probe of a thermometer I purchased (ordinary inside/outside home thermometer). I gave it to a friend who has similar thing at his home, but several times beter/expensive, to see if this one I got is and how accurate. I guess it was a good purchase, cos' temps compared with his thermo was in +/- 0.2 C difference ((I guess I can take the temps with +/- 0.5 C error margin)

Today I measured some temps on my setup:

fans @ 7V:

idle cpu 33 C, water 30.0 C, rad intake 25.3 C
full load cpu 38 C, water 30.8 C, rad intake 25.6 C

fans @ 12 V

idle cpu 32 C, water 28 C, rad intake 24.8 C
full load cpu 36 C, water 28.8, rad intake 24.8 C

It surprises me that the water temp (took it right after the block, the only place I can insert the probe without problems) is oscillating within the 1 C range.

Also, in best case, (water 28, rad intake 24.8), delta is 3.2 C, thats if I'm not mistaken 3.2 C above ambient, temps taken behind the block. So, anybody, pls comment these temps, in any way...:)

well, i cant comment too much on temps because my temp measuring absolutely sucks.

i got:

-car thermometer for ambient room temps, indicating 17.8°C
-senfu thermometer measuring same ambient temp about 1°C less than car thermometer: 16.8°C

senfu thermometer is now in reservoir indicating watertemps of 20.4°C

mbm reports a chip temp of atm +/-40°C at 1782MHz and 1.95V.

so that means that my setup is cooling the chip waywayway worse than your setup. if u were to be able to give your chip, my watertemp then u would be having a chip of 23°C idle!!!

edit: oops, i can sometimes be pretty dumb. sensor 1 from mbm is bound to winbond 1; sensor 2 to winbond 2 ; i was always assuming that sensor 2 is my cpu, but maybe it is sensor 1. i will have to look first before stating temps.

Woohoo, your temps are good as mine, considering that you got water/ambient delta of 3.6 C! That's what I wanted to know, is 3 C or so above the ambient good, good enough, very good (I know it's not the best, so I'll stop there:D )...

I've got no reference how much deg C above the ambient is in good setup, or in bad setup. Just wanna know the range...How close to the ambient can one achieve with a 'ordinary' wc setup like this? Did anybody reach 1 C or 0.5 C water temp above the ambient?

:eek: :eek: :eek: M8! You'll freeze to death!!! Don't tell me I got some balls going to 1.5 mm base, it's you who got the balls (pretty frozen ones too!) to sit and type on the keyb. at that temperature! :p

And about those winbond sensors, bloody things, there's two of them I have to remember, and each time I have to rebound them I have to run some burn-in or cpuburn to see which temp rises faster...and hopefully decide which one is cpu...:(

Reading about the sequence of the parts in the wc setup made me thinking, now I run it pump-rad-block, think I'll try to re-tube it to see how it goes with pump-block-rad...That's the way you have it, right? Ever tried to run it other way?

i can stand cold temps pretty well

besides , my pc + 21" monitor heat up the room pretty well and fast...

i have already done it with rads in series

pump -> rad -> block -> rad -> pump

that setup ran pretty good, but were other rads and other MB; so hard to judge objectively.

Whoa, this happenes when I cool my room a little...Room temp (measured on rad intake) 21.8 C, idle temps:

Oh yeah! OH YEAH!!!:p

waw, i thk i will have to make another bloack. apparently my block can still be made quite an amount better.

Yup, you've been there, done that! I think it's worth it!

Got materials, and tools...:cool:

heh, i ain't looking forward to all the mess, the last mess has been barely cleaned up...

i'm gonna setup a little workshop in the basement.