System specs & Overclocking, or the lack thereof... 
Now that those 2 rather huge posts have us caught up to the current state of affair with Goliath, I'll get to overclocking/system specs.
Specs:
Abit IC7
P4 2.66GHz
256MB XMS2400 borrowed from my Tbird 850 (to be replaced w\ 2x256 kingston hyperX PC3500)
PNY GF2MX (to be replaced by Sapphire radeon 9700 pro if I can find one w\ a black PCB)
Netgear 10/100 card (blue PCB,Realtek based)
Adaptec 29160 U160 card
Quantum atlas 10K III 18.2GB U160 x 2
Pioneer DVD-303S slotload SCSI dvdrom
HP 8x4x32 SCSI cdrw
92mm Panaflo L1BX x 2(coming soon)
---WC---
Dangerden maze4 P4 block
Dangerden radeon 9700 block
1/2" ID tygon tubing
brass/poly fittings
Eheim 1250
1985 ford econoline van HC
120mm polished Panaflo aluminum frame L1As x 2
And the OC. CPU temps (from bios, uncalibrated thermal diode)
Ambient 74-78*F (26.6*C-??)
Idle: 36-37.5*C
Load: 40.5*C @ 2.66GHz
Load: 42.5*C @ 3.00GHz/1.575 Vcore
And that's all I got for an OC. A meazly 340MHz OC. waHHHHHHH!!!
I tried upping vcore to 1.650 tops, but couldn't stabilize at 3.1GHz even with the ram (which is rated up to 150MHz) running at CAS3 (which it is stable up to 187MHz, 4:5 divider, 150MHz CPU FSB)
BWAHHHHHHHH!!!! I want more of an OC!
Anyway... that's the up to the current, and at 3.00 I can run prime95 for as long as I want with the radiator fans at a voltage where they are damn near silent!
... back to the moddin...
The top metal of my case comes off just like a normal side panel, 1 screw holds it on the back and several tabs engage on either side. The radiator is top mounted, but there is about a 1/4" space between the top of the rad and the top clamshell b/c of the chassis structure. So what to do? a regular hole would be ugly because of the gap...
Que the modders mesh of course!
Against my better ideas I ended up cutting a piece to fit the hole approximately instead of folding the edges out to sit under the sheetmetal ala Infidel's mesh mod. I tried for about 3 hours to do it but I just dont have the right tools to do so.
I cut the mesh to approximate size, put tape down on the top of the sheet metal, and filled the back with JB Weld, and placed 2 gallons worth of distilled water (handy weights!) on top at let it cure. Here's what it looks like with just the 2 ends in place:
I've got to jbweld the other sides in place and then file out the holes so they're pretty on the edges, followed by some bondo action (using the real stuff this time not the crap spot filler) to get it all nice and even in preperation for automotive grade paint
Comments please!