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Unread 06-16-2004, 09:04 AM   #3
starbuck3733t
Cooling Savant
 
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: State College, PA
Posts: 338
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THE SHROUD ARRIVES!





My GOD! When spiv sent me the first picture I almost spooged. I took the second picture when it arrived back to me in perfect condition. Look at the coppers reflection in that gorgeous black paint!

ahh, the fans.. A pair of uber-rare 120mm aluminum frame panaflo L1As which I got off of flea-bay for a mere $30 for both!

They came looking very dull, and the only thing I could do was to polish them. It took roughly 4 hours per fan and was done primarily by hand, with the exception of 220 grit on the 2nd fan being done with a random orbital sander. 220 grit, 400,600,1000,1500,rubbing compound,polishing compound, mothers aluminum polish. Beautiful. I'm glad my technique worked out so well for you mnpctech!



While spiv was taking care of the shroud, I built the reservior. you've seen it before in anoterh post


Unfortuneatly, the tops made out of 1/8" plexi didn't survive my STUPIDITY! :devious:
Sidetrack: Plastic is an organic compound. Alcohol is an organic solvent. What do you think happens when you run 97% isopropyl alcohol through a WC loop to clean out the crap your HC deposited in it because you were too stupid to flush it out before installing the loop???? Yup, they crack. OOps. The res was rebuilt with 1/4" caps and plumbers goop/ge silicon II. I wish i'd used plumbers goop the whole time, but the silicon II is working fine so far.

Also in the mean time of waiting for the reservior, and just afer receiving the IC7 from newegg, and other goodies from SVC... one of which was a Zalman passive northbridge cooler. But how to attach it? Simple, dremel 3 pins off of the 4 corners and grind the base down to the same thickness as the original NB HSF. The mod performs beatifully, keeping the northbridge warm but not hot too the touch, with minimal airflow (wash from the 120s on the radiator) There will be a seperate how-to for this at a later date (EG: Starbuck has more pix)



Now the biggest pain in the butt in a watercooling system besides the loop itself has got to be attach the blocks. The DD maze4 I bought uses 4 threaded rods and a host of nylon parts, 4 springs, and 4 brass thumbscrews. In other words, one would normally have to take the mobo out to get the block off. This was not a viable option in my case simply because taking the mobo out means moving the pump, the res, disconnecting a buttload of cabling, etc.

So I cut a hole in the back of the motherboard plate so I could access the back of the socket 478. The first hole was cut for the IT7, when I thought i was going to get another one, and the second (very ugly un-cleaned up) hole will work for both. Now I can use pretty much any P4 board and be able to easily access the holes in the mobo.


Brad pitt's coat from fightclub... no! it's an access hole!



The hole has be cleaned up greatly since I took that picture. I bought a set of files @ Grizzly and they are wonnnnderful!
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Goliath: 3.4E@3.91/Abit IC7, Maze4 (temporarily) + custom splitter to crazy 4-way watercooling parallel loop: X800XT @ 520/1280 + AC Twinplex, AC Twinplex Northbridge, Silenstar Dual HDD Cooler, Eheim1250, '85 econoline van HC + 2x120, 1x120 exhaust - polished aluminum frame panaflo L1As, 2x18GB 10K RPM U160 SCSI, 4GB PC4000.

I wanna be BladeRunner when I grow up!

Project Goliath - nearing completion.
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