Pro/Forums - View Single Post

davidzo · 07-26-2004, 05:15 AM

the second design looks better to me

But why did you cut the 2nd outlet away?

I would make a 3bardesign with 1/4" barbs (more is not necessary for a 1048), with a little smaller channel area than yours.
The Top can be plexi or copper, in which you can mill some basins where the outlets are, to make the block less restrictive.
Then i would use only 2mm Holes for 1mm channels, to guarantee that there is no calm water in the holes (look at lumpy channel block again

). Calm water has a very bad heattransfer, much worse than copper. calm water can isolate the effectively flowing water from the hot copper. This effect is the well known boundary layer effect which has to decrease as much as possible in a good waterblock.

With 10mm Material, you will not really benefit from a thinner baseplate i think.
Thats because the water goes always the shortest way, which is from inlet to outlet on the top of the block and not on the baseplate. you must find some tricks to let the flow go over directly over the bp and not further above in the channels, jets would probably help.

I would also mill a 3mm basin on the middle of the block itself, so you can decrease the channel height to about 5mm (->2mm bp) and insert a polycarbonate plate over the inlet in the middle of the block (little bit like DD RBX) whith some nozzles. I would direct the nozzles into the holes you drilled. Whith this technique you will have a very good flow distribution all over the channels and inside the drilled holes - less calm water, less boundary layer = less thermal resistor = more performance.

07-26-2004, 05:15 AM	#9
davidzo Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Hamburg Posts: 141	the second design looks better to me But why did you cut the 2nd outlet away? I would make a 3bardesign with 1/4" barbs (more is not necessary for a 1048), with a little smaller channel area than yours. The Top can be plexi or copper, in which you can mill some basins where the outlets are, to make the block less restrictive. Then i would use only 2mm Holes for 1mm channels, to guarantee that there is no calm water in the holes (look at lumpy channel block again ). Calm water has a very bad heattransfer, much worse than copper. calm water can isolate the effectively flowing water from the hot copper. This effect is the well known boundary layer effect which has to decrease as much as possible in a good waterblock. With 10mm Material, you will not really benefit from a thinner baseplate i think. Thats because the water goes always the shortest way, which is from inlet to outlet on the top of the block and not on the baseplate. you must find some tricks to let the flow go over directly over the bp and not further above in the channels, jets would probably help. I would also mill a 3mm basin on the middle of the block itself, so you can decrease the channel height to about 5mm (->2mm bp) and insert a polycarbonate plate over the inlet in the middle of the block (little bit like DD RBX) whith some nozzles. I would direct the nozzles into the holes you drilled. Whith this technique you will have a very good flow distribution all over the channels and inside the drilled holes - less calm water, less boundary layer = less thermal resistor = more performance. Last edited by davidzo; 07-26-2004 at 06:55 AM.