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Gooserider · 08-15-2003, 01:55 AM

I was wondering how much of the unit was "guts" and how much is plastic housing, fittings, water jacket, and so forth.... I've had this notion for a way of dealing with it.

I'm planning to make my res out of a peice of 1.5" PVC pipe that will run from the top of my case nearly to the bottom. I know the UV light in these sanitizers shouldn't be looked at, so why not loose the extra plumbing and just stuff the 'guts' in the opaque PVC res that's already sitting there?

The question would be whether the thing would take up to much room in the res and obstruct the flow of water around it. I'm just guessing, but if I have an effective plumbing diameter of 5/8" through the system feeding the 1.5" diameter res, I probably wouldn't want to have the OD be much more than about an inch if I want to keep the bulb from being an obstruction. Also, does anyone know if standard white plumbing PVC is effected by UV? If so, it might be necessary to shield it in some way (Line the res w/ copper foil?)

As I recall previous discussions, the bulb was supposedly sealed inside a glass test-tube like item, with just a couple of power wires running to it. How big in length and diameter is the test-tube?

The second issue is the power supply - If the bulb is an incandescent, the wall wart is presumably a transformer to a lower voltage, but not sure what it would be... If the bulb is a flourescent type, the wart is presumably a ballast that steps UP the voltage... A third possibility is that the bulb needs 110V, and the wart is an isolation transformer to give extra electrical safety.

Has anyone looked up the bulb already to see what it needs for juice?

This next is pure speculation, but... Assuming the lamp is a flourescent that needs a ballast, presumably one could find a regular lamp that uses the same general type of bulb and gut it for the ballast. The test tube part might be harder, but I'm sure something could be found. Everything else could presumably be faked by use of a drilled rubber stopper and lots of plumbers goop...

ART

08-15-2003, 01:55 AM	#88
Gooserider Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Billerica, MA, USA Posts: 451	Hmmm... you didn't take it apart did you? I was wondering how much of the unit was "guts" and how much is plastic housing, fittings, water jacket, and so forth.... I've had this notion for a way of dealing with it. I'm planning to make my res out of a peice of 1.5" PVC pipe that will run from the top of my case nearly to the bottom. I know the UV light in these sanitizers shouldn't be looked at, so why not loose the extra plumbing and just stuff the 'guts' in the opaque PVC res that's already sitting there? The question would be whether the thing would take up to much room in the res and obstruct the flow of water around it. I'm just guessing, but if I have an effective plumbing diameter of 5/8" through the system feeding the 1.5" diameter res, I probably wouldn't want to have the OD be much more than about an inch if I want to keep the bulb from being an obstruction. Also, does anyone know if standard white plumbing PVC is effected by UV? If so, it might be necessary to shield it in some way (Line the res w/ copper foil?) As I recall previous discussions, the bulb was supposedly sealed inside a glass test-tube like item, with just a couple of power wires running to it. How big in length and diameter is the test-tube? The second issue is the power supply - If the bulb is an incandescent, the wall wart is presumably a transformer to a lower voltage, but not sure what it would be... If the bulb is a flourescent type, the wart is presumably a ballast that steps UP the voltage... A third possibility is that the bulb needs 110V, and the wart is an isolation transformer to give extra electrical safety. Has anyone looked up the bulb already to see what it needs for juice? This next is pure speculation, but... Assuming the lamp is a flourescent that needs a ballast, presumably one could find a regular lamp that uses the same general type of bulb and gut it for the ballast. The test tube part might be harder, but I'm sure something could be found. Everything else could presumably be faked by use of a drilled rubber stopper and lots of plumbers goop... ART __________________ Designing system, will have Tyan S2468UGN Dual Athlon MOBO, SCSI HDDS, other goodies. Will run LINUX only. Want to have silent running, minimal fans, and water cooled. Probably not OC'c