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Unread 10-14-2002, 06:07 PM   #10
bigben2k
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Texas, U.S.A.
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Quote:
Originally posted by myv65
One thing that's gonna matter is how well the fins "connect" to the baseplate. If you look at Cathar's design up close, I'm betting you'd actually find a small radius at the bottom of each "slot". This is preferable to having a sharp 90° corner where the fin meets the base. Just from your sketch, it looks like you would have a higher ratio of "white space" where fins don't sit atop the die vs Cathar's design.

PITA to manufacture, but would obviously look pretty sweet. If I was a bettin' man, I'd still put my money on Cathar's but doubt what you've drawn would be very far behind if you can get it made.

Best of luck to ya Ben.
I see what you mean, but I think Cathar had his made by CNC, so it should be flat, but it was sandblasted (or something) so it's impossible to tell (Cathar?).

Here's a pic of where the core sits (approx) assuming a perfectly centered 11 by 11 mm core.

I can tell that my fin drawing isn't to scale (I need CAD!) because the last set of fins (not the posts) shouldn't be over the core, except for the corner ones. Cathar used a 1:1 ratio of copper:channel, and I'm using an average of 1.25:1, so I should have more copper over the core, but only by a little bit.

Making this block is still a challenge. If I go with my original idea, then I'm cutting into the first set of fins (those that cross over the core) and leaving a central square post.

As an alternative, I could braze the first set of fins into place, leaving them out so that I can cut the rest of this beyatch out, but I don't know if it would work, especially given the very small size of these things. I could braze what I end up cutting out of fin set#1, but again, too small.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg radius over core.jpg (60.6 KB, 2476 views)
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