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Unread 06-09-2004, 03:38 AM   #39
Jackal
Cooling Neophyte
 
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 45
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Maybe so, but it is much more important to get a good contact on the gpu than it is on the ram.
That is exactly what I was thinking too.

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is it done? pics?
Not yet... As I wrote in one of the previous posts, I will continue with the water block construction after I finish some exams at our faculty.

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The plexi/Polycarbonate Top will crush because of the pressure from the small screws. On some edges, there are 3-5cm between the screws, i don't think that you can get it proof there because polycarbonat is more flexible than you would imagine, especially when it is so thin because of the big channels.
Trust me on this one... I've done this before

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The fin area ist much too complicated to produce it at a realistic level of costs. 0,5mm cutting tools are very rare and expensive. the smallest diameter what i would use ist 2mm.
I've done that before too . Ever heard of steady hand, dremel and silicon carbide metal cutting plates? That is exactly what I'm going to use.

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The block will be much heavier as a zalman heatpipe (330g)and thats the maximum what is possible without risk that your card breaks.
That won't be a problem, because I can always make some kind of suppoprt for the card.
Although my heaviest copper heatsink (totaly custom made) for the graphic card was about 600g and the card is doing ok without any support. (Link to the original thread about this heatsink on Slovenian forum Slo-Tech. You probably wont understand much, but you can at least see the pics.)
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