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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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06-29-2004, 06:20 PM | #1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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Anyone interested in T-Line caps?
you know, for the guys who have T-line systems, would you like a nice piece to cap your system?
i'm gonna machine probably 50 caps outta aluminum designed for 1/2" ID tubing. if anyone has suggestions let me know before i go machine them. |
06-29-2004, 11:49 PM | #2 |
Thermophile
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,014
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Anodize them, but I dont think you can sell them unless you make them REALLY cool looking.
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06-29-2004, 11:56 PM | #3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2004
Location: AZ
Posts: 43
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How about a 3/8 ID 1/2 OD cap? I'd buy one with or without the anodize -MKH
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06-30-2004, 01:20 AM | #4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 116
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Perhaps you could rig one up with a hole for a thermistor. Then you could sell them with the thermistor installed. I have one that I made up buy filling a standard barb with epoxy and then ran the thermistor wire through the center. Of course it looks kinda cheese.
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06-30-2004, 05:44 AM | #5 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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Quote:
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06-30-2004, 03:22 PM | #6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 116
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Hmmm,
Well I supose you could put in some kind of gasket that the wire would fit into. I find that epoxy works fine. I think the thing about making them is that there is so many things out there that will make for a cap. So I am not sure that there would be too much demand for something like this. I saw on some post this guy was using a double A battery for a plug! lol One thing that would get people interested is to make one with a built in thermometer. Perhaps a small LCD that displays the temp from a sensor that will fit down the tube. I know fry's sells some cheap temp equipment that could be modified into something like this. If you can do this and make it look cool, I will be your first customer. heh, provided they are cheap!
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06-30-2004, 03:39 PM | #7 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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i'm gonna make some normal ones outta aluminum without a sensor. i may experiment with a few and see what i can do about adding one in, but i dont' know. sealing it is gonna be tough. i want this thing to seal off any T-line 1/2" ID setup and not have any problems.
sure people are using double a batteries and corks and stuff... but there are people out there that are looking for something that looks great, and I guarantee you, these pieces will be top notch quality. You know those python grips that are hose connectors that people use? those are a good 25 bucks a pair, people buy them like, and the quality of my T-line caps will be perfect to match them. Quote:
i would sell them for 8 dollars shipped. I think for that price, it's worth it. Last edited by Stang_Man; 07-01-2004 at 07:58 PM. |
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06-30-2004, 05:23 PM | #8 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 414
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06-30-2004, 06:23 PM | #9 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 8
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I'd definitely be interested, even if it isn't anondized. I'd have to see a picture of it first though.
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07-01-2004, 07:54 PM | #10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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k, i'm gonna have a prototype within a week or two, so stay tuned.
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07-01-2004, 07:57 PM | #11 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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Quote:
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07-09-2004, 08:05 AM | #12 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 3
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you shouldnt need to anodize them. No-one fills up a T-Line all the way, so corrosion wont be much of an issue.
and as mentioned Anodization is far from cost effective. It would triple the price. |
07-09-2004, 01:12 PM | #13 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 414
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Quote:
high concentration of vapor/droplets? copper coils on an air conditioner must be replaced 3x more often on the beahc, compared to inland. |
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07-09-2004, 01:48 PM | #14 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Not necessarily. The last time some of my friends anodized some aluminum all it took was some acid (sulfuric, I think), battery charger, container, and some ice.
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07-09-2004, 04:55 PM | #15 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: midwest side, yo
Posts: 596
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yeah, but if you're commercializing and selling something, not sure people want to buy things that have been anodized with a bucket of ice...
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07-09-2004, 06:23 PM | #16 | |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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Quote:
IF i see a large demand on these (i only have ~50, so anodization is outta the question), and i start another order, a large one, i will get half of them anodized a color that is most popular based on polls across several forums. |
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07-09-2004, 06:42 PM | #17 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2004
Location: AZ
Posts: 43
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I had the same problem he is trying to fix with the caps, here is what I did, since I wanted the shuttle to water tight and mobile, I didn't want to leave it open and seepable. I initially had used a scrap piece of tube that I filled with hot glue to make it water tight….not the best fix. I used the same type of deal with some 2 part epoxy, and it was water tight, but looked like ass. Here is my fix, I got a red anodized thumb screw from Frozen CPU that had no threads on it… So it went into my mega parts bin, I was poking around today and had a light bulb moment, it has the perfect shape to plug a 10 mm/3/8ths tube, it even has a perfect lip to accept a zip tie. Here is how it looks, tonight:
The zip tie isn't really needed, but I love overkill. The tube is locked into the groove, underneath and air tight, as shown by the condensation, from the fluid traped in the ball joint of the valve -MKH |
07-13-2004, 07:59 PM | #18 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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caps are done, pics will be posted soon !!!
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07-13-2004, 09:05 PM | #19 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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here's a pic
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07-13-2004, 09:13 PM | #20 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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07-13-2004, 10:19 PM | #21 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 8
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Hmm. Do you think you could take one and cut the top off so it has a flat top instead of a domed top?
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07-13-2004, 10:25 PM | #22 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Cartersville, Georgia
Posts: 24
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what did you make those on?
Todd |
07-14-2004, 05:47 AM | #23 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Plainville, CT
Posts: 79
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A CNC Mazak Quickturn 20, Quckturn 6T, and then finally touched up on a Hardinge.
Jigglypuff, would there be a reason why to shave the dome off? |
07-14-2004, 07:19 AM | #24 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
Posts: 53
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Dude, why not just makem out of brass. That way you won't have to worry about corrosion or anodizing.
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07-14-2004, 04:52 PM | #25 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
Posts: 504
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I thought about doing this too man I actually made one for someone. one thing you shoudl do is knurl them so you can actually get them off
Jon |
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