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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 08-13-2004, 01:46 AM   #26
Colt357tw
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because i always want to know how it would effect thermal transfer when head pressure increased 10+ folds while remain relatively low flow(280L/H). I got a couple fuel pump that are capable of 40+PSI and I really want to put them(yes, in serial) in a watercooling setup.

my wife would emasculate me if she found out how much those two gray looking cylinders on my book shelf cost....
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Unread 08-13-2004, 05:09 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt357tw
40+PSI
He had to ask, and so we know. Can you get this done in less than 2-3 months, Colt357tw?
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Unread 08-13-2004, 06:46 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kobuchi
He had to ask, and so we know. Can you get this done in less than 2-3 months, Colt357tw?
Is that an offer for 16 Earl's Blue anodized Aluminum AN-AN #10 fittings from you Kobuchi? Why thanks, you are so nice.


Oh yes baby

Dont think I can pull this off within 3 months, but I will share my rig diagram when I installed ProE in my home computer. MSPaint just cant cut it this time

Something to flame you guys' imagination which also reduce torque effect on the WB to PCB, a watermill radiator fan, think about how a turbo charger works.

Last edited by Colt357tw; 08-13-2004 at 09:08 AM.
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Unread 08-13-2004, 08:35 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt357tw
If I have a little more income, this would be my choice, Bar none
The outer braid on hose like this is for abrasion resistance - pressure capability comes from the layers beneath. Not totally sure what you are doing inside your PC case that requires abrasion resistance.
IMHO, a SS outer braid is even worse unless you get the hose terminated by a professional with the proper tools.
You're thinking of using injector pumps? They're rated for continuous duty, right? All the injector pumps I've seen are fairly low volume, and are only at high pressure when pushing fluid against a resistance (typically a regulator valve - pressure pushes a spring behind the valve). You do realize that injector pumps rely on the lubricative qualities of gasoline?

I don't think that raising absolute pressure in a system is going to make any difference in thermal transfer. But it's always useful finding out if your assumptions are right or wrong so I wouldn't think of standing in your way. I would suggest, however, that instead of using fuel pumps, you set up a "normal" system - with the exception that you use a pressureizable reservoir (and, of course, set everything else up to be able to withstand higher pressure, so, yes, higher rated hoses, fittings and radiator - oil cooler?) For instance, there are anti-water-hammer devices designed to be attached to house plumbing. They are essentially a cylinder with water on one side, air on the other and often a diaphragm between. I've seen a few that appear to be set up so you can add pressure on the air side (schrader valve). Adding air pressure would indirectly pressurize your water loop. Much cheaper than killing a couple of injector pumps.

Bob

PS: Yes automotive sytems are pressurized a bit, but this is simply to raise the boiling point of the coolant, not to make the system more efficient at thermal transfer.
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Unread 08-13-2004, 09:28 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkoure
PS: Yes automotive sytems are pressurized a bit, but this is simply to raise the boiling point of the coolant, not to make the system more efficient at thermal transfer.
Yes that is right. Most automotive cooling systems have a radiator cap rated between 13-16psi. For every 1 psi. you add to a sealed system you increase the boiling point by 3 degrees. So if water boils at 100 degree celsius and you add 15 psi to it, than the boiling point will be 145 degrees celsius.

Actually I'm working on a Waterblock that has a 1/2" barb inlet and then splits into 7, 3/16" orifices to increase pressure at the core.
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File Type: jpg WB in action2.jpg (104.4 KB, 66 views)
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Unread 08-13-2004, 10:44 AM   #31
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Colt357tw
looking at heat transfer equations reveals no factor for pressure ??
(am I missing something ?)
for sure the bp is raised, but I am not prepared to accept nucleate boiling at the W densities and temperatures we deal with
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Unread 08-13-2004, 11:54 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt357tw
Something to flame you guys' imagination which also reduce torque effect on the WB to PCB, a watermill radiator fan, think about how a turbo charger works.
The point of a turbocharger is that you are recovering some energy that you would otherwise be throwing away.
In a watercooling system your water velocity is not energy that you would otherwise be throwing away - and you do have plenty of DC to drive a fan so IMHO reducing water velocity to save fan-electricity is not a good trade off.
What do you mean by "torque effect"? Pushing the WB away from proper contact? How does a watermill radiator fan help this?
Maybe I don't understand what you're trying to say.
Maybe I just have no clue (won't be the first time)
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Unread 08-14-2004, 01:30 PM   #33
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A turbocharger pulls more air into the engine to allow you to burn more fuel at once, how is that related to a water cooling system?
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Unread 08-14-2004, 03:01 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butcher
A turbocharger pulls more air into the engine to allow you to burn more fuel at once, how is that related to a water cooling system?
Oooohhhh,.....I think I get it.
Picture this: A small little turbocharger forcing water, (instead of air) directly on your waterblock increasing the outlet pressure.
(putting your finger over a garden hose when water is coming out, increases the pressure of the water coming out. Like a pressure washer.)

Is that it?
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Unread 08-14-2004, 03:08 PM   #35
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Um, the way a turbocharger works and the way you increase velocity by reducing the outlet on a garden hose are completely different. Incidentally - the presure your garden hose delivers is not a factor of you holding your finger over the end, that just reduces the outlet size which increases the velocity, not the pressure.
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Unread 08-14-2004, 06:13 PM   #36
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ala' jet impingment used in the ww, cascade, tdx, rbx, mcw6000.... the list goes on

I fail to see how slowing down the water flow to use the energy in a less efficient manner could work? (hey, if somethings rotating, theres heat energy made and kinetic energy lost?)

Unless im missing something blatent
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Unread 08-14-2004, 11:20 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butcher
Um, the way a turbocharger works and the way you increase velocity by reducing the outlet on a garden hose are completely different. Incidentally - the presure your garden hose delivers is not a factor of you holding your finger over the end, that just reduces the outlet size which increases the velocity, not the pressure.
Um, I'm trying to figure out what Colt357 meant when he said something about using the same idea as a turbocharger works. I don't know exactly what he meant. I know how a turbocharger works, I work on cars all day long, everyday.

You don't get outlet pressure without resistance. (finger over garden hose)
Flow (gpm or gph) stays the same.
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Unread 08-15-2004, 05:35 AM   #38
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Intake Turbine from a turbo is driven by engine exhaust,

Now, switch waterflow with engine exhaust on exhaust side to works on the turbine, so fan(will be axial type) attached to intake will rotate and provide some forced convection to radiator.

The velocity of water in the hose will be slow down enough so when it later enter my WB, the pressure(hopefully) no longer 3kg/CM^2, the cross section on my WB design on the inlet side is 20mm*20 fins*0.5mm thickness with 1.5mm between fins, 2CM^2 of contact area getting smack by 3kg/CM^2 will produce 6kg multiplied height of the center of mass amount of torque, which may very well above what my CPU package/socket can handle. So some sort of pressure/velocity reducing devices(such as the watermill fan) must be setup prior to put inside my rig.
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Unread 08-15-2004, 06:21 AM   #39
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Think zero water flow with the pressure still high... Is there a torque? I think you'll find velocity more useful than pressure.

And then think about the torque from the water exiting. Unbalanced blocks like the MCW600x or the TDX will produce a torque with respect to the die center, but the off-center thrust is very small in relation to the mounting force.
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Unread 08-25-2004, 10:30 PM   #40
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anybody know where can i get 3/4 id tubing(good quality) ?
mcmaster asked u$ 60,00 dolars to ship by dhl
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Unread 08-26-2004, 12:41 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvin
anybody know where can i get 3/4 id tubing(good quality) ?
You might check laboratory supply houses and industrial process supply houses in the city nearest you.
You may or may not find tygon, but you should be able to find peroxide cured silicone hose for food processing. Oh - and try suppliers for the dairy industry as well.
What are you doing that you need 3/4 ID tubing? If it's just to match the inlet/outlet of a pump, look at the ID of the fitting you're matching - the tubing most likely doesn't need to be larger than that.
Bob
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Unread 08-26-2004, 02:13 PM   #42
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Thanks bobkoure, but here in Brazil, i have search but didnt find good quality tubing...
Just silicon, but i will try it.
It is for my inlet pumps, i didint like to restrict the inlet flow
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Unread 02-02-2005, 04:05 PM   #43
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I am interested in buying 50-100 ft. silicone tubing (peroxide cured or platinum cured) for peristaltic pump's applications. I need the following dimensions:
1. ID aprox. 2.00 mm (it would be 0.78 = 5/64, or 0.079, or 0.08, or 0081 inch)
2. OD aprox. 4.00 mm (5/32 inch more or less)
Could someone send me a quotation for it?
Also, I am interested in finding some silicone adhesives to bond, mold, or splice silicone tubing to silicone tubing. Could you give me some information about that?
Thank you very much
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Unread 02-02-2005, 07:36 PM   #44
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We don't sell anything, last I checked.
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Unread 02-02-2005, 08:01 PM   #45
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I think he may be confused about what sort of site this is.
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Unread 02-02-2005, 11:02 PM   #46
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i use 1\2 and 3\8 Primoflex myself...
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Unread 02-04-2005, 04:19 PM   #47
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I've decided that tubing from Lowes sucks. It's cheap but it either too thin and kinks or too thick and won't ben at all. My next wcing upragde it to buy the good stuff from DD.
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Unread 02-04-2005, 05:20 PM   #48
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coolsleeves solves that
you'll find little joy with thick tubing
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Unread 02-04-2005, 05:55 PM   #49
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I'm thinking thin and coolsleeves is the way to go. I have 1/8" walled clearflex and although it's quite bendable it exterts quite a bit of force if you do any tight turns.
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Unread 02-06-2005, 07:54 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
I thought I post a new thread on the types of tubing different people use.
I got clear vynel tubing from home depot. Seems a little stiff. Very inexpensive. Hope it'll seal tight around the barbs.
McMaster-Carr P/N 5233K44 Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD, 3/32" Wall Thickness @ $0.36/ft. - works for me. Much less likely to kink than the high price stuff.
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