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Unread 09-25-2004, 11:21 AM   #1
coolwave
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Default Watercooing from China

Coolwave Power Radiator

The new radiator is very good performance. Here is some test results for your reference.

Ambient Temp 25 C
Althon64 3000+
Gigabyte GA-K8VT800

Power Radiator Dual 12CM - 1577rpm fan
CPU 100% 36C - die
CPU Idle 31C



Last edited by coolwave; 09-25-2004 at 08:10 PM.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 11:25 AM   #2
scooterfl
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You know, 1 post is enough...funny how you can have the same results with 2 different rads btw..and what is your test setup?
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Unread 09-25-2004, 12:55 PM   #3
jaydee
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You seem to have forgotten the test results? What you posted not only defies the laws of physics but has no real info on the radiator in question.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 01:59 PM   #4
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Looks like someone deleted the other thread.

I posted: What was tested? How?
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Unread 09-25-2004, 02:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigben2k
Looks like someone deleted the other thread.

I posted: What was tested? How?
I reported them as spam as they are.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 08:48 PM   #6
BillA
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so all new products are spam ?
what am I missing ?

that is not a rad I'm interested in, but the hubs are in the right position
- better than the competition
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Unread 09-25-2004, 08:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unregistered
so all new products are spam ?
what am I missing ?

that is not a rad I'm interested in, but the hubs are in the right position
- better than the competition
It is when the guy falsifies his intent with fake thread titles and starts 3 threads on the same thing in various forums instead of advertising it in the vendors forum (being he IS a vendor) were it should have been put. And with no reply all day I doubt his intention is discussion.

Better than the competition? I have yet to see any test results.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:01 PM   #8
BillA
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I do believe he is the mfgr looking for vendors,
that is a product for a European vendor

it is interesting, ck the fan attachment 'holes'

not disagreeing jd, kill the spam
but do not blind yourself to also the input possible even from spam

why did no one LOOK at the product ?
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:07 PM   #9
BillA
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"Better than the competition? I have yet to see any test results."

if you were not a convert to thinking, I'd light up your sky

look at a BIX, look at this one
you need a test ?
- for the slow, put them on their side and bleed them

all clear ?

and the 'holes' need a test too ?
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unregistered
"Better than the competition? I have yet to see any test results."

if you were not a convert to thinking, I'd light up your sky

look at a BIX, look at this one
you need a test ?
- for the slow, put them on their side and bleed them

all clear ?

and the 'holes' need a test too ?
Here is his website: http://www.globalchance-pc.com/coolwave/ Very slow server... Remove the /coolwave/ http://www.globalchance-pc.com/

Yeah a test. Lets see why this rad is any better than a BI. Bleed? I have no problems bleeding a rad and don't care about the hole pattern either. The guy spacifically said it performs well. Whats does that mean and why did he post irrelevant numbers.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:29 PM   #11
SysCrusher
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I would have to say it is better made then the BI. They added the female threaded nut to it. You will wish you had that on the BI once you twist the soldered on tube right off when screwing in a barb.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:34 PM   #12
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hmm, I had not connected the 2

jd, as a kit mfgr 'self bleeding' is quite important for each component (but not always attainable), and 'self bleeding' radiators never gurgle

a kit buyer has not your experience

no clue on the #s
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SysCrusher
I would have to say it is better made then the BI. They added the female threaded nut to it. You will wish you had that on the BI once you twist the soldered on tube right off when screwing in a barb.
Why would you try and screw a barb into a tube without threads?
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:38 PM   #14
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classic jd
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unregistered
hmm, I had not connected the 2

jd, as a kit mfgr 'self bleeding' is quite important for each component (but not always attainable), and 'self bleeding' radiators never gurgle

a kit buyer has not your experience

no clue on the #s
I never had trouble bleeding a rad before no matter what position it sat in. Maybe spacific to the BI's? I always used heater cores as soldering on barbs is pretty simple. Maybe it is because my bleed tubes always rise higher than the rad itself? Anyway I digress. Unless the topic starter has any relevant info or someone has one of these in hand I don't see any point in a discussion.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:46 PM   #16
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http://www.swiftnets.com/store/produ...asp?ProdID=315

ok
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:51 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydee116
Why would you try and screw a barb into a tube without threads?

LOL All I can do is laugh. You really are on a roll huh.

What about this one? Not to mention the one you posted, you can't even change barb size if you wanted too and it has a cheap ass paint job. That's my point.
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Last edited by SysCrusher; 09-25-2004 at 10:01 PM.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 09:58 PM   #18
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I believe the rads in the first pics are made in Germany.....or a copy of such.


SenC
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Unread 09-25-2004, 10:02 PM   #19
BillA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Senater_Cache
I believe the rads in the first pics are made in Germany.....or a copy of such.


SenC
link ?
10 characters
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Unread 09-25-2004, 10:10 PM   #20
AngryAlpaca
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http://www.innovatek.de/

Close, but not quite the same. The shroud is different, with no bar across the middle. I'm not seeing any other differences. Of course, I see no reason they should be different.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 11:13 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SysCrusher
LOL All I can do is laugh. You really are on a roll huh.

What about this one? Not to mention the one you posted, you can't even change barb size if you wanted too and it has a cheap ass paint job. That's my point.
Well those certainly are NOT tubes there are they as you suggested. Paint? Who cares as long as it works. Also you just destroyed your original argument against BI's by posting this BI with a soldered on nuts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SysCrusher
I would have to say it is better made then the BI. They added the female threaded nut to it. You will wish you had that on the BI once you twist the soldered on tube right off when screwing in a barb.

Last edited by jaydee116; 09-25-2004 at 11:44 PM.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 11:28 PM   #22
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Here is the innovatek rads.:
http://www.webshop-innovatek.de/0000...3d0a9af71.html
and
http://www.webshop-innovatek.de/0000...3d0a9106b.html


What I found interesting was the pic attached pulled off the second link. It shows one cut open. That sure looks like all aluminum.
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Unread 09-26-2004, 01:51 AM   #23
Senater_Cache
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Thanks for the linky there AngryAl,
sorry for not providing a full-fledged post BillA, I was in a rush..... but they look so similar nonetheless

SenC.
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Unread 09-26-2004, 10:02 AM   #24
pHaestus
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Quote:
that is not a rad I'm interested in, but the hubs are in the right position
- better than the competition
Damn you Bill and your user friendliness! Don't you know that everyone here likes to turn their entire PC sideways and shake it repeatedly? I use a paint mixer personally...

I have always filled my systems before I mounted them in a case so I could properly shake them and get the air out of the system. But that's a pain in the ass, and NOT what someone new to wcing or buying a kit wants to see. Furthermore not many such users WILL do this. So a radiator design that more effectively clears all the air from the rad will have a bigger impact on cooling performance than any tweaks on fin density or other consideration.
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Unread 09-26-2004, 10:20 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pHaestus
Damn you Bill and your user friendliness! Don't you know that everyone here likes to turn their entire PC sideways and shake it repeatedly? I use a paint mixer personally...

I have always filled my systems before I mounted them in a case so I could properly shake them and get the air out of the system. But that's a pain in the ass, and NOT what someone new to wcing or buying a kit wants to see. Furthermore not many such users WILL do this. So a radiator design that more effectively clears all the air from the rad will have a bigger impact on cooling performance than any tweaks on fin density or other consideration.
I still fail understand why you need to shake the rad and what not. I never have any trouble with air stuck in the rad and I never go through such a ritual.

Anyway, are these rads aluminum or not? If so how many newbs would stick a brass barb in those holes being there seems to be some resistance against using plastic barbs around here..... And would copper/brass be better than Aluminum overall.

Also shouldn't a good professional kit be pre-filled? I know I wouldn't trust people filling their own systems if they never done it before.....
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