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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 05-11-2005, 08:03 AM   #26
JFettig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy_EK
FL3JM: I think that could be made...
Todaj I am going to company that has galvanization for aluminium cover/protection. I think the WB and its price will be finnished/known not later than in a week time.
For money transfer please contact me by mail. The directly transaction can not be made, sorry.
By that statement I was assuming that your galvanising it, galvanisation is zinc plating, the concept behind it is that the zinc corrodes first.

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Unread 05-11-2005, 08:18 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFettig
By that statement I was assuming that your galvanising it, galvanisation is zinc plating, the concept behind it is that the zinc corrodes first.
Galvanization is a procedure for any plating (zinc, nickel, gold, silver).
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Unread 05-11-2005, 09:04 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy_EK
Galvanization is a procedure for any plating (zinc, nickel, gold, silver).
Umm, no. It is zinc only. Nickle, gold, silver, copper, ect is called plating. Hell that's even stated in the definition in the dictionary.

Quote:
to coat (iron or steel) with zinc; especially : to immerse in molten zinc to produce a coating of zinc-iron alloy
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Unread 05-11-2005, 02:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydee116
Umm, no. It is zinc only. Nickle, gold, silver, copper, ect is called plating. Hell that's even stated in the definition in the dictionary.

.
My mistake! My apologies! :shrug:
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Unread 05-11-2005, 06:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy_EK
My mistake! My apologies! :shrug:
Don't feel bad, I had to look it up to make sure myself.
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Unread 05-11-2005, 08:24 PM   #31
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so nickel plating it is!?

do you have any weight measurements on this block?
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Unread 05-12-2005, 02:01 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starbuck3733t
so nickel plating it is!?

do you have any weight measurements on this block?
The block weights 405g.
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Unread 05-12-2005, 09:55 AM   #33
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OK!
I got aluminium part with nickel coating (nickel plated).
I am sorry but at the moment I can't give you any picture, but will tomorrow.
The aluminium block loocks well coated so I think I/we have solved that problem.

Right now I am looking for small springs for mounting the block.
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Unread 05-12-2005, 11:37 AM   #34
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Will it be possible to order that block but with the inlet on the top-side? It would certainly make the tubing easier, at least in my case.
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Unread 05-12-2005, 12:41 PM   #35
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I think it will be possible. But unused hole will have to be pluged with a plug.
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Unread 05-13-2005, 11:22 AM   #36
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Hi!
As I promissed, here are the pictures of nickel plated aluminium part.

I better like the aluminium look, but that can't be made...
Anyway, it looks very shiney.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg FC9.jpg (19.1 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg FC10.jpg (14.2 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg FC8.jpg (20.8 KB, 29 views)
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Last edited by Eddy_EK; 05-28-2005 at 07:18 AM.
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Unread 05-13-2005, 05:36 PM   #37
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Awesome finish man!!! Have you got any idea what one of those will cost now and when we will be able to buy one?
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Unread 05-20-2005, 11:13 AM   #38
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Hi!
Here are the pictures of FC water block of leadtek GF 6800 Ultra.
This was just for mountnig test.







I tried to mount with springs, but I think I will use just screw with silicon distance ring, which will compensate the force.



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Unread 07-01-2005, 11:53 AM   #39
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Well, I must tell you that I had serious problems with nickel coated aluminium part of WB.
The aluminium part was nickel plated once, as the company forgot my instructions, therefore they had to denickel it and nickel plate it again.
But the nickel coating was no good at all. :shrug:
I put ordinary water in block and the problems were seen in few days. I am sorry to have listened to some guys who said that eloxation will not be good enought. I think, that as many companies uses aluminium parts, it should be good for me too.

So I will try to denickel it again and than try to eloxate it. And then test it again.
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Unread 07-01-2005, 12:14 PM   #40
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Or just not use aluminum at all? People like H20Gun have proven that you can make a full-cover copper waterblock at only ~300 grams.
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Unread 07-02-2005, 08:19 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Or just not use aluminum at all? People like H20Gun have proven that you can make a full-cover copper waterblock at only ~300 grams.
Yes in future I will remember that, but I have 15 pcs of them already made, therefore, I will make everything to make it work. If it won't, it will all go to trash! argh!!!!
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Unread 07-02-2005, 03:10 PM   #42
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as an alternative to trashing all the blocks
you could make the copper insert out of aluminium
a system made with only aluminium parts will not corrode
there's got to be some people still using aluminium CPU blocks and rads
not a great solution but better than throwing it out
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Unread 07-02-2005, 07:23 PM   #43
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What about doing a clear anodizing on the blocks? A proper anodization is rugged as hell and won't wear away. Plus its clear, so you can see your shiny aluminum underneith. Just a thought.
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Unread 07-03-2005, 09:35 AM   #44
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Yes, anodizing & eloxating... i think it has the same meaning.... :shrug:
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Unread 07-13-2005, 02:18 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El]v[0IsEv1L
On those cards just ramsinks end up offering a boost in memory overclocking. The x800 and 6800 series have powerful memory (GDR3) that heats up when overclocked but runs surprisingly cool when running stock.
Can anyone give me any specific information on this?...I've heard that GDDR3 runs much cooler than previous video RAM, and as such, only really needs RAM sinks...??
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Unread 07-13-2005, 03:34 PM   #46
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That block looks amazing.
Is there anything to stop the water going from one side of the inlet to the outlet, as the oring is not in a groove, the water can go over the island in the aluminuim? or is there a oring grove on the plastic top?

With annodised aluminuim I think the worst problem is the threads which will get scratched easly when barbs are inserted - so you should either use plastic ones, or get some aluminium ones soldered (using special solder) in before plating/annodising.

You have to be carefull when you insert the copper as that is the worst place for scratches becuase if the metals are physically contacting it increases the rate of corrosion.

The rest of the annodise should not wear away as it doesnt have any contact with hard materials.



Xylo: Check the datasheets on samsungs site. they say that for the later rams, the max heat ouput is a bit higher.
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Unread 07-14-2005, 01:54 PM   #47
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if I had a 6800 series card, I'd buy it for sure. it's awesome!

Does the 6800 series card have similar problems with different heights of ram across the varying brands of card?
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Unread 09-05-2005, 02:40 PM   #48
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I had problems, and I sloved them.
I denickeled the aluminium parts and then I eloxate them.
Here are the results.
PS: the pictures corrupted a little when i resized them and compressed. Actually the WB looks eaven nicer.

Best! Eddy
Attached Images
File Type: jpg FCe1.jpg (24.0 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg FCe2.jpg (34.5 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg FCe3.jpg (60.7 KB, 28 views)
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Unread 09-05-2005, 03:06 PM   #49
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Man, that looks soooo nice.
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Unread 09-05-2005, 03:35 PM   #50
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yeah it looks good. What level of eloxate/anodize did you use?
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