building my own custom waterblock

DarthWombat · 06-03-2002, 08:20 AM

Hi Im bui8lding a Waterblock from scratch for my first Water cooling system and I need some information, someone referred me to this forum since they said its good for info like that

Anyone have exact measurements of:

Athlon Xp or Tbird

MB Heatsink attachment Hole Diameter and Dimensions around ZIF
ZIF height
CPU height (from Bottom of Chip holder to Die)

Thanks I'm gonna test it all out in ProDesktop before me and my Uncle make it.

Oh and here's a Rough design of what I had in mind for my first one

http://www.geocities.com/darthwombat...ater_block.htm

I'll be redesigning it soon as well using good dimensions.
Any ideas? Thankk

jag_e_fattig · 06-03-2002, 08:59 AM

check here for different amd tech-docs. Or you can just measure it yourself..

EDIT: don't make the top aluminum and the bottom copper. make the block either all copper or all aluminum, you don't want corrosion in there...

gone_fishin · 06-03-2002, 09:20 AM

On design, solder a short length of copper tubing to the bottom of the top plate under the inlet hole to make sure the water flow goes to the bottom of the block and spreads out good in the fins before leaving the outlet.

jag_e_fattig · 06-03-2002, 09:54 AM

are those measurments from "center to center"? or is it "outer edge to outer edge"?

Brad · 06-04-2002, 05:10 AM

I don't know about the centre to centre thing, but just measure it yourself with a ruler, if one is 3mm out, and the other is .5mm out, well it is obviously the 'other'

Cyco-Dude · 06-04-2002, 10:12 AM

what material are you planning to make this out of? you might want to make a prototype out of aluminum (since its cheap and easy to work with).
also, how are you planning to mount the block? with a clip / clamp of some sort, or are you going to bolt it to the MoBo? it might be easier if you bolted it to the board; just something to think about.

Fixittt · 06-04-2002, 02:31 PM

I would really like to see how your gonna do that. Its not gonna be easy!

UpAllNight · 06-04-2002, 02:59 PM

im with Fixitt what are your ideals on machining this baby

Cyco-Dude · 06-04-2002, 05:57 PM

drill press? CNC using a small routing bit?
laser

oh, and you might want to move the inlet / outlets to the corners. might get a better flow path that way.
also, how deep do you plan on making this??

DarthWombat · 06-05-2002, 10:52 PM

I've never really done anything like this before so I dont really know how it will come out.

I am bolting it to the motherboard.

I just uploaded another version of the idea I have so you can see it here:

http://www.geocities.com/darthwombat...ater_block.htm

Thanks

gone_fishin · 06-05-2002, 11:35 PM

Make the fin area first without any sides and then solder some side pieces on.

maskedgeek · 06-05-2002, 11:47 PM

one thing about them posts, they wont help anything but turblience if they are that small, so you should have them around a quarter of an inch, otherwize the heat wont go up them at all...

Fixittt · 06-06-2002, 09:14 AM

masked, I tend to disagree, and this is purly speculation.

But I would think that the heat would shoot up the pins. Less mass = less resistance. But I would conesntrate, and do the numbers, on a smaller block with less pins. If I had the know how, I would find out the what the heat load on a certain amount of copper is. Then build the block around the numbers. Targeting a copper slug in a non heat cunductive base plate. So that the heat is targeted to the highest volume of water, and not spread out thrue out the block. Its my opinion that this is why some of the acrylic german blocks work as wll as they do. All the heat is concentrated in a copper slug that is large enought to absorb the heat fast enought, but yet small enought to allow the coolant passing over it to effectivly remove the heat

DarthWombat · 06-07-2002, 03:24 PM

There's a more updated design up on the site.

http://www.geocities.com/darthwombat...ater_block.htm

Soom I willb e adding dimensional information

bigben2k · 06-07-2002, 03:38 PM

It would be a challenge to mill. You might consider making the side walls a part of the copper top (forgetting the acrylic). Also, you might consider simply soldering those posts in place. All you'd have to do then is drill a series of holes, and use a small copper rod (availability?) cut to lengths. Combine the two ideas above, and make the channel seperator a part of the top, and you've got yourself something that can easily be put together.

It'd work for you, but not for mass production. It's very personal that way...

DarthWombat · 06-07-2002, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
It would be a challenge to mill. You might consider making the side walls a part of the copper top (forgetting the acrylic). Also, you might consider simply soldering those posts in place. All you'd have to do then is drill a series of holes, and use a small copper rod (availability?) cut to lengths. Combine the two ideas above, and make the channel seperator a part of the top, and you've got yourself something that can easily be put together.

It'd work for you, but not for mass production. It's very personal that way...

Yeha I was thinking of making the whole block, then putting a copper cap (top and all no acrylic) and braizing it.

Cap is Sides and top

Cyco-Dude · 06-07-2002, 06:36 PM

ah, then those pins would be a little easier to carve out. just take a table saw to it

er, the top and sides cant be one solid piece (unless you have a CNC mill @ ur disposal). are you planning to cut the pins, then solder sides to it, then solder a top to the sides??

bigben2k · 06-07-2002, 06:46 PM

It's getting complicated... The brazing idea is good, but will make a mess inside the block that you won't be able to clean.

Using multiple parts to form a cap is just too laborious, and just increases the chance of f'n up.

It'd be a better challenge to find a way to bolt that top to the base... (me like challenges!)

It would also give you a chance to sandblast the insides, for more surface.

DarthWombat · 06-07-2002, 07:22 PM

well making an acrylic part is jsut in my uncles alley so that is NO problem, he can make me ay type of plastic that he can find into whatever shapoe I can give him.

So I'll do this:

Copper Slug and Base (part with Heatsink) + Sides + Top

gone_fishin · 06-07-2002, 07:59 PM

Sounds good, and don't let the naysayers discourage you, with the right aproach you could make that without much trouble at all

Have fun and post us the finished block

DarthWombat · 06-07-2002, 10:10 PM

Now that I have experimented with designing some blocks Ill actually make a few once school is out. If any work good Il build teh copper one (the otehrs will be aluminum)

Since I can easily change teh dimensions to fit almost any processor, what processor do you recommend for overclocking (sorry no Celerions etc.)

Should It me an XP/Tbird?

Thulian PentIII
Coppermine?

I dont want to go Pentium 4 because it's so danged expencive for RDram and stuff plus fi I break teh system it's crashed.

gone_fishin · 06-07-2002, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DarthWombat
Now that I have experimented with designing some blocks Ill actually make a few once school is out. If any work good Il build teh copper one (the otehrs will be aluminum)

Since I can easily change teh dimensions to fit almost any processor, what processor do you recommend for overclocking (sorry no Celerions etc.)

Should It me an XP/Tbird?

Thulian PentIII
Coppermine?

I dont want to go Pentium 4 because it's so danged expencive for RDram and stuff plus fi I break teh system it's crashed.

You need to educate yourself on the P4. It's the overclock champion at this time, very cheap and there are many boards with DDR and RDRAM is cheap also

Fixittt · 06-07-2002, 10:43 PM

but if your building something to test with, and play with, then a cheap duron setup will work good, shoot, I got my Duron 950 to bench faster then the 1.2 I had, even when overclocked.

Brad · 06-07-2002, 11:35 PM

a 1.6a, sis645, and some ddr is damned cheap right now, and it's virtually impossible to damage a P4

Fixittt · 06-07-2002, 11:47 PM

OHH OHH, I bet I can kill one..... OHH OHH pick me, Pick meeeeeee

06-03-2002, 08:20 AM	#1
DarthWombat Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 15	building my own custom waterblock Hi Im bui8lding a Waterblock from scratch for my first Water cooling system and I need some information, someone referred me to this forum since they said its good for info like that Anyone have exact measurements of: Athlon Xp or Tbird MB Heatsink attachment Hole Diameter and Dimensions around ZIF ZIF height CPU height (from Bottom of Chip holder to Die) Thanks I'm gonna test it all out in ProDesktop before me and my Uncle make it. Oh and here's a Rough design of what I had in mind for my first one http://www.geocities.com/darthwombat...ater_block.htm I'll be redesigning it soon as well using good dimensions. Any ideas? Thankk

06-03-2002, 08:59 AM	#2
jag_e_fattig Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: SoCal, formerly Sweden. Posts: 110	check here for different amd tech-docs. Or you can just measure it yourself.. EDIT: don't make the top aluminum and the bottom copper. make the block either all copper or all aluminum, you don't want corrosion in there... __________________ Tearing it up AER - 05/29/87-10/26/03, I'll never forget. Last edited by jag_e_fattig; 06-03-2002 at 09:56 AM.

06-03-2002, 09:54 AM	#4
jag_e_fattig Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: SoCal, formerly Sweden. Posts: 110	are those measurments from "center to center"? or is it "outer edge to outer edge"? __________________ Tearing it up AER - 05/29/87-10/26/03, I'll never forget.

06-04-2002, 05:10 AM	#5
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	I don't know about the centre to centre thing, but just measure it yourself with a ruler, if one is 3mm out, and the other is .5mm out, well it is obviously the 'other' __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

06-04-2002, 02:31 PM	#7
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	I would really like to see how your gonna do that. Its not gonna be easy! __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

06-04-2002, 10:12 AM	#6
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	what material are you planning to make this out of? you might want to make a prototype out of aluminum (since its cheap and easy to work with). also, how are you planning to mount the block? with a clip / clamp of some sort, or are you going to bolt it to the MoBo? it might be easier if you bolted it to the board; just something to think about.

06-04-2002, 02:59 PM	#8
UpAllNight Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: HILLBILLY LAND Posts: 159	im with Fixitt what are your ideals on machining this baby __________________ XP1800 @172x10.5 Maze 3..Ehiem 1250..Chevette Rad 1 120mm panaflo @7v 1" shroud All fits nicely inside my case ambient(74 F) 2.0v Core(33.5) Loaded idle(31.5c) Enermax 431 watt Antec 1030B Gainward Geforce 3 TI200 241/548 Sony CDRW Creative 52x CD Soundblaster Live

06-04-2002, 05:57 PM	#9
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	drill press? CNC using a small routing bit? laser oh, and you might want to move the inlet / outlets to the corners. might get a better flow path that way. also, how deep do you plan on making this?? Last edited by Cyco-Dude; 06-04-2002 at 10:14 PM.

06-05-2002, 10:52 PM	#10
DarthWombat Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 15	I've never really done anything like this before so I dont really know how it will come out. I am bolting it to the motherboard. I just uploaded another version of the idea I have so you can see it here: http://www.geocities.com/darthwombat...ater_block.htm Thanks

06-05-2002, 11:35 PM	#11
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	Make the fin area first without any sides and then solder some side pieces on.

06-05-2002, 11:47 PM	#12
maskedgeek Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: poop Posts: 145	one thing about them posts, they wont help anything but turblience if they are that small, so you should have them around a quarter of an inch, otherwize the heat wont go up them at all...

06-06-2002, 09:14 AM	#13
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	masked, I tend to disagree, and this is purly speculation. But I would think that the heat would shoot up the pins. Less mass = less resistance. But I would conesntrate, and do the numbers, on a smaller block with less pins. If I had the know how, I would find out the what the heat load on a certain amount of copper is. Then build the block around the numbers. Targeting a copper slug in a non heat cunductive base plate. So that the heat is targeted to the highest volume of water, and not spread out thrue out the block. Its my opinion that this is why some of the acrylic german blocks work as wll as they do. All the heat is concentrated in a copper slug that is large enought to absorb the heat fast enought, but yet small enought to allow the coolant passing over it to effectivly remove the heat __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

06-07-2002, 03:24 PM	#14
DarthWombat Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 15	There's a more updated design up on the site. http://www.geocities.com/darthwombat...ater_block.htm Soom I willb e adding dimensional information

06-07-2002, 03:38 PM	#15
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	It would be a challenge to mill. You might consider making the side walls a part of the copper top (forgetting the acrylic). Also, you might consider simply soldering those posts in place. All you'd have to do then is drill a series of holes, and use a small copper rod (availability?) cut to lengths. Combine the two ideas above, and make the channel seperator a part of the top, and you've got yourself something that can easily be put together. It'd work for you, but not for mass production. It's very personal that way... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-07-2002, 06:36 PM	#17
Cyco-Dude Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 836	ah, then those pins would be a little easier to carve out. just take a table saw to it er, the top and sides cant be one solid piece (unless you have a CNC mill @ ur disposal). are you planning to cut the pins, then solder sides to it, then solder a top to the sides??

06-07-2002, 06:46 PM	#18
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	It's getting complicated... The brazing idea is good, but will make a mess inside the block that you won't be able to clean. Using multiple parts to form a cap is just too laborious, and just increases the chance of f'n up. It'd be a better challenge to find a way to bolt that top to the base... (me like challenges!) It would also give you a chance to sandblast the insides, for more surface. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-07-2002, 07:22 PM	#19
DarthWombat Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 15	well making an acrylic part is jsut in my uncles alley so that is NO problem, he can make me ay type of plastic that he can find into whatever shapoe I can give him. So I'll do this: Copper Slug and Base (part with Heatsink) + Sides + Top

06-07-2002, 07:59 PM	#20
gone_fishin Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Da UP Posts: 517	Sounds good, and don't let the naysayers discourage you, with the right aproach you could make that without much trouble at all Have fun and post us the finished block

06-07-2002, 10:10 PM	#21
DarthWombat Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NJ Posts: 15	Now that I have experimented with designing some blocks Ill actually make a few once school is out. If any work good Il build teh copper one (the otehrs will be aluminum) Since I can easily change teh dimensions to fit almost any processor, what processor do you recommend for overclocking (sorry no Celerions etc.) Should It me an XP/Tbird? Thulian PentIII Coppermine? I dont want to go Pentium 4 because it's so danged expencive for RDram and stuff plus fi I break teh system it's crashed.

06-07-2002, 10:43 PM	#23
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	but if your building something to test with, and play with, then a cheap duron setup will work good, shoot, I got my Duron 950 to bench faster then the 1.2 I had, even when overclocked. __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

06-07-2002, 11:35 PM	#24
Brad Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Nuu Zeeelin Posts: 3,175	a 1.6a, sis645, and some ddr is damned cheap right now, and it's virtually impossible to damage a P4 __________________ 2x P3 1100's at 1400, Abit VP6, 2x Corsair 256mb PC150 sticks, 20gb 'cuda ATA-III, 2x 40gb 'cuda ATA-IV in raid 0. 20" Trinitron. No fans 2x 2400+ at 2288mhz (16.0 x 143), Iwill MPX2, 2x Kingmax PC-3200 256mb sticks, 4x 20gb 60gxp in Raid 5 on a Promise SX6000. Asus Ti4200 320/630. Cooled by Water

06-07-2002, 11:47 PM	#25
Fixittt CNC Beyatch Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards Posts: 721	OHH OHH, I bet I can kill one..... OHH OHH pick me, Pick meeeeeee __________________ Creator of the Spir@l Block Longest post ever http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=43808#post43808

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