Air trap pics

hmale · 06-25-2002, 10:01 AM

Hi guys. It has been a while since I posted. I am starting a new project and I have started making/gathering new components. I wanted to share my pics of a new air trap I constructed. Thanks!

hmale · 06-25-2002, 10:02 AM

An additional pic:

hmale · 06-25-2002, 10:03 AM

yet another...

hmale · 06-25-2002, 10:05 AM

Sorry, meant to post this pic:

dcrainman · 06-25-2002, 10:23 AM

very sleek, So do you recommend the intake being at the bottom as opposed to the top?

dcrainman · 06-25-2002, 10:25 AM

now that I really look at it, where did you get that tube man? thats nice as hell

hmale · 06-25-2002, 10:34 AM

Thanks for the nice comments dcrain! I believe that placing the inlet at a higher point in the system would be a more efficient design. The initial bleeding of the circuit would be faster this way. However we are talking about a difference of a matter of hours between one design and the other. For the sake of expediency and simplicity I chose to have the intake at a lower point. Thge long term impact should be insignificant.

The pipe is a 1.5" plexi tube that can be purchased through Mcmaster/U.S. plastics/Tap Plastics etc. The fittings are clear PVC manufactured by Harvel Plastics.

hmale · 06-25-2002, 12:23 PM

Just to be specific: the top and bottom clear PVC famale adapters are made by Harvel Plastics. The brass fittings are "precision" brass and are NPTF threaded. Thread sealant is used to ensure leak free joints.

All fittings are 1/2".

bigben2k · 06-25-2002, 12:42 PM

Pardon me for butchering your pic, but you could do this:

hmale · 06-25-2002, 01:04 PM

Thanks for the great idea Ben. I do have some extra parts and supplies. Think I will probably end up testing both configurations.

Thanks again!

dcrainman · 06-25-2002, 01:06 PM

Might as welljust put it at the top if he's gonna do that

redleader · 06-25-2002, 03:04 PM

I'd recommend wider tube. 1/2 will work fine, but it will still take some time to bleed. My 3/4 in tube still sucks most of the air through the Tee with each pass and I expect 1/2 would be even more so.

Regardless, nice work.

hmale · 06-25-2002, 03:08 PM

Hi Red...thanks for the nice comments.

Actually, the fittings are 1/2", but the diameter of the acrylic tube is 1.5". I have used a similar size before in other projects and it has worked fine. I will keep you guys posted on how things turn out after I gather all the components I will be using.

procoolerguy · 06-25-2002, 03:52 PM

Nice and compact!
But I think the fittings should stay at the bottom.
Sorry bigben, looks more attractive that way.

--

hmale · 06-25-2002, 04:13 PM

I think both ideas have their own merits. Ultimately testing will be the deciding factor.

Thanks!

bigben2k · 06-25-2002, 04:36 PM

Actually, I think it would perform the same...

The airtraps here are dependant on that T fitting. It's what's limiting the airtrap from being more efficient.

chazz469 · 06-25-2002, 05:06 PM

hmale, after looking at all of the components that you've gathered so far, it seems apparent that you have a grand master design. Could we see that perhaps?

hmale · 06-25-2002, 05:48 PM

Some time ago I worked on the project shown here:
http://www.extrememhz.com/case.html

I am trying to improve on the design and aesthetics.

procoolerguy · 06-26-2002, 10:38 AM

did you get the acrylic tube pre-cut or did you cut it yourself to desired size?

--

hmale · 06-26-2002, 11:56 AM

The minimum size acrylic tube I could purchase was 6'. I had to cut the tube myself. I glued the fittings using weldon # 6 and a syringe applicator afer finishing the cut ends.

Thanks!

hmale · 06-27-2002, 06:48 AM

Her is a picture of the pipe clips that will secure the air trap to the case. I also show what I used to glue the joints together.

Thanks!

mistert · 07-05-2002, 02:34 AM

cool bong!

El Oscuro Uno · 07-05-2002, 02:45 AM

Killer trap. Ill send you a residual when I copy that idea this weekend.

hmale · 07-05-2002, 10:15 AM

Thanks "dark one" I'll be checking my mail...LOL

nemaste · 07-05-2002, 02:26 PM

nice looking conTRAPtion. i can see how having water flow with gravity (top to bottom) in a large area can make it harder for bubbles to escape.

IMHO, my vision of an ideal air-trap is sort of like this:

Code:

             put filler cap here
tangential   |              |
inlet        |              |
       ------               |<----------this region needs to be widened  
       ------               |
             |              |  
             |              |
             |              |
             |              |<-----------the longer this region is, the better
             |              |
             |      | |_____|______
             |      |_______ ______centered outlet
             |______________|

just a pipe dream for me, since my simple "T-coupler trap" has done OK so far.

06-25-2002, 03:52 PM	#14
procoolerguy Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: FL Posts: 7	looks... Nice and compact! But I think the fittings should stay at the bottom. Sorry bigben, looks more attractive that way. -- __________________ --

06-25-2002, 04:36 PM	#16
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Actually, I think it would perform the same... The airtraps here are dependant on that T fitting. It's what's limiting the airtrap from being more efficient. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-25-2002, 05:06 PM	#17
chazz469 Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 150	hmale, after looking at all of the components that you've gathered so far, it seems apparent that you have a grand master design. Could we see that perhaps? __________________ "I believe that the moment is near when by a procedure of active paranoiac thought, it will be possible to systematize confusion to the total discrediting of the world of reality" -Salvador Dali AMD XP1600+ @1790MHz and rethinking my cooling.... MAZE3 --> DD Cooler Cube --> Eheim 1048 512MB PC2700 DDR MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU 2x 20GB Maxtor in RAID 0 1x 30GB Maxtor --> WinXP GF3 Ti200 @ 240/499

06-26-2002, 10:38 AM	#19
procoolerguy Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: FL Posts: 7	did you get the acrylic tube pre-cut or did you cut it yourself to desired size? -- __________________ --

07-05-2002, 02:34 AM	#22
mistert Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: san diego Posts: 1	cool bong! __________________ leroy-jones roves yuo

06-25-2002, 10:23 AM	#5
dcrainman Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: ma, usa Posts: 50	very sleek, So do you recommend the intake being at the bottom as opposed to the top?

06-25-2002, 10:25 AM	#6
dcrainman Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: ma, usa Posts: 50	now that I really look at it, where did you get that tube man? thats nice as hell

06-25-2002, 10:34 AM	#7
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Thanks for the nice comments dcrain! I believe that placing the inlet at a higher point in the system would be a more efficient design. The initial bleeding of the circuit would be faster this way. However we are talking about a difference of a matter of hours between one design and the other. For the sake of expediency and simplicity I chose to have the intake at a lower point. Thge long term impact should be insignificant. The pipe is a 1.5" plexi tube that can be purchased through Mcmaster/U.S. plastics/Tap Plastics etc. The fittings are clear PVC manufactured by Harvel Plastics.

06-25-2002, 12:23 PM	#8
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Just to be specific: the top and bottom clear PVC famale adapters are made by Harvel Plastics. The brass fittings are "precision" brass and are NPTF threaded. Thread sealant is used to ensure leak free joints. All fittings are 1/2".

06-25-2002, 01:04 PM	#10
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Thanks for the great idea Ben. I do have some extra parts and supplies. Think I will probably end up testing both configurations. Thanks again!

06-25-2002, 01:06 PM	#11
dcrainman Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: ma, usa Posts: 50	Might as welljust put it at the top if he's gonna do that

06-25-2002, 03:04 PM	#12
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	I'd recommend wider tube. 1/2 will work fine, but it will still take some time to bleed. My 3/4 in tube still sucks most of the air through the Tee with each pass and I expect 1/2 would be even more so. Regardless, nice work.

06-25-2002, 03:08 PM	#13
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Hi Red...thanks for the nice comments. Actually, the fittings are 1/2", but the diameter of the acrylic tube is 1.5". I have used a similar size before in other projects and it has worked fine. I will keep you guys posted on how things turn out after I gather all the components I will be using.

06-25-2002, 04:13 PM	#15
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	I think both ideas have their own merits. Ultimately testing will be the deciding factor. Thanks!

06-25-2002, 05:48 PM	#18
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Some time ago I worked on the project shown here: http://www.extrememhz.com/case.html I am trying to improve on the design and aesthetics.

06-26-2002, 11:56 AM	#20
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	The minimum size acrylic tube I could purchase was 6'. I had to cut the tube myself. I glued the fittings using weldon # 6 and a syringe applicator afer finishing the cut ends. Thanks!

07-05-2002, 02:45 AM	#23
El Oscuro Uno Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Dirty South, Memphis TN Posts: 4	Killer trap. Ill send you a residual when I copy that idea this weekend. __________________ "You know me, always freak'n for a tweak'n" Started Q3 Feb 1999-Retired Q3 June 2002: Over a million frags in between.

07-05-2002, 10:15 AM	#24
hmale Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: MIami, Florida Posts: 169	Thanks "dark one" I'll be checking my mail...LOL

07-05-2002, 02:26 PM	#25
nemaste Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2002 Location: CA Posts: 78	nice looking conTRAPtion. i can see how having water flow with gravity (top to bottom) in a large area can make it harder for bubbles to escape. IMHO, my vision of an ideal air-trap is sort of like this: Code: put filler cap here tangential \| \| inlet \| \| ------ \|<----------this region needs to be widened ------ \| \| \| \| \| \| \| \| \|<-----------the longer this region is, the better \| \| \| \| \|_____\|______ \| \|_______ ______centered outlet \|______________\| just a pipe dream for me, since my simple "T-coupler trap" has done OK so far. __________________ StrongShockModz Last edited by nemaste; 07-05-2002 at 02:39 PM.

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