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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 09-23-2002, 08:52 PM   #1
utabintarbo
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Default Found this at a computer show...

Well, I don't want to start any fights this time....

I came across these at a computer show, and I have a few thoughts about how they might be utilized. I am open to comments.

Let me apologize in advance for the disparate messages containing pics.

First the shots as I found them...

first pic:
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Unread 09-23-2002, 08:52 PM   #2
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Second pic:
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Unread 09-23-2002, 08:53 PM   #3
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Third pic:
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Unread 09-23-2002, 08:56 PM   #4
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Material is anodized aluminum. Obviously from a Micron computer.

Here's my Idea:

Iso
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Unread 09-23-2002, 08:57 PM   #5
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Comments please


Front:
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Unread 09-23-2002, 09:02 PM   #6
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That's a good find, for sure.

I would try to squeeze that thing in a res. Do not leave gaps between it and the outer wall.

Here's why: because it's a fin design, it's a flow restrictor. If you leave that gap on the outside, you might loose some of the cooling effect as the coolant goes right around it.

You might want to experiment with which fins to feed. I believe that the bottom (closest to CPU) fins will provide good cooling, but the top ones are probably useless. Alternatively, you could cram some silicone sealant in the top fins (it'll be easily removable).
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Unread 09-23-2002, 11:10 PM   #7
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hmm, kinda resembles a inovatek block job

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Unread 09-23-2002, 11:13 PM   #8
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Those are old Micron passive heatsinks. They screwed into a base that held them onto the CPU.
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Unread 09-23-2002, 11:49 PM   #9
Arcturius
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Default partially off-topic

What are the dimensions on that?

<off topic>
Can O'Beans: How was the base constructed? What processor type were those used on?

I have sinks like those on a few Sparcs I have in a box somewhere, except instead of being threaded on the outside, they're drilled and tapped, and the heatspreader on the CPU has a threaded rod extending up, that the sink screws right onto.

Those are about 1.25" in diameter, and about 3/8" tall, with 4(?) fins.
</off topic>
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Unread 09-24-2002, 12:52 AM   #10
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Those things were like the first video card ram heatsinks for "case modders"...just cause they looked neat.

Isn't there a waterblock I saw somewhere that was designed similar to this?
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Unread 09-24-2002, 04:06 AM   #11
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Yep!, Inovateck it is!. good design. I'd like to get some about 3/4inch round to put on the back of a GPU & NorthBridge .

Why do they make Graphics cards upside down?!..:shrug:

I agree about keeping the sides closed, force the H20 through the fins, dont let it go round...
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Unread 09-24-2002, 04:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Why do they make Graphics cards upside down?!..
IMHO if they put the gpu on the other side of the card, the fan coolin the gpu would suck hot air from the air cooled cpu and chipset hs/fan, and possibly the voltage regulators

just my .02
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Unread 09-24-2002, 05:03 AM   #13
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Wow, when I first saw the pic, I thought you bought a cooling RC nitro engine head, but...maybe I should carefully read the title...

They certainly look nice...and usable...
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Unread 09-24-2002, 06:28 AM   #14
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If you got some time to kill, build that block. I like the shape of it. And I love anodized aluminium, wisch I could do that at home
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Unread 09-24-2002, 07:54 AM   #15
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Default Re: partially off-topic

Quote:
Originally posted by Arcturius
What are the dimensions on that?

Well, here's a pic:
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Unread 09-24-2002, 10:52 AM   #16
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Here's the second design iteration:

I narrowed the outer gap and lengthened the inlet and outlet (almost) to the bottom. I also added a beefy bottom plate for mounting. This will require some machining, but it will solve some other issues.
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Unread 09-24-2002, 10:53 AM   #17
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Front view:

I will be going out of town for a week, so I expect lots of cogent criticisms/suggestions. Let's try to put some lipstick on this pig!

Bob
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Unread 09-24-2002, 01:06 PM   #18
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Ha, basicaly just like Innovatek except aluminium and longer fins.
I have to do something like that just for curiosity, to see how it perform.
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Unread 09-24-2002, 01:20 PM   #19
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Uhh... what was that part originally supposed to be? Looks like something Lt. Uhura would stick in her ear to open all hailing frequencies...
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Unread 09-24-2002, 04:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by nexxo
Uhh... what was that part originally supposed to be? Looks like something Lt. Uhura would stick in her ear to open all hailing frequencies...
LOL
Jesus Christ Nexxo!!!!
I've read this post an hour ago, and I still can't stop laughing. And I didn't smoke nothing illegal.

BRAVO !!!
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Unread 09-24-2002, 08:12 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by nexxo
Uhh... what was that part originally supposed to be? Looks like something Lt. Uhura would stick in her ear to open all hailing frequencies...
Nah! Definitely Klingon!
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Unread 10-04-2002, 07:20 AM   #22
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Bump.

Any other thoughts on how the design may be improved? If not, I may try to put a couple of these together.

Comments?

Bob
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Unread 10-04-2002, 04:03 PM   #23
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It should do OK, but recognize that these were meant to work with air (non-forced air at that). That means they were meant to work in an environment where convection from the surface to the air was a limiting factor. As such, they have considerably more surface area than you would need with water as your convection medium. Of course, they were also meant for a lot lower power dissipation than you're likely to have in a high end CPU.

Bottom line? It would make a neat looking jobbie if you enclosed it in a clear acrylic pipe and will do OK, but "OK" is probably 5-10°C warmer than the "best blocks" using equivalent flow rates. Sealing this into acrylic could prove non-reliable. If you put it into a metal enclosure, you lose most of the cool points for looks.
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Unread 10-05-2002, 08:19 PM   #24
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http://www.jackypc.com/index2.php3?rub=articles&num=150

Nice picture of the Innvotek one...

Definately wanna see a home built version.

Hmm, wonder if I can find these myself, slap a copper base on it...and use some PVC JB Weld to it
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Unread 10-05-2002, 10:13 PM   #25
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Maybe the barbs could be tilted at 45-degrees going into the cylinder instead of straight up at 90-degrees. Then the water might swirl around the core like a whirlpool. If the entire block was clear it'd sure be purdy. Angled barbs might be too hard to use/install in reality tho...
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