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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 11-19-2002, 02:31 PM   #1
satanicoo
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Default Altering an Kryoteck Slot1 case to 478

A big turn of events...

Just received an not-working Kryoteck case, but a slot1 version.

Althout im quite sure i can fix it, shall it work on a 478 p4 2400 mhz? just asking...
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Unread 11-19-2002, 03:18 PM   #2
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Someone offered me an old vapochill unit the other day. It would make a pretty good GPU cooler, but it simply couldn't handle the heat load of a modern CPU. Not certain what the max load of the Kryotech was; if it is similar to the Vapochill I would not sink too much money into it.
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Unread 11-21-2002, 02:20 PM   #3
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i have it working, but i need some details about it (and sice kryotech's dint reply to my mails i will have to ask to you ppl :P )

hopefully, even if it cant dissipate all the power from my p4 2400, it wont burn my cpu, it will trotle down to a lower speed...

i will post a picture made by me when liquid2k is fixed :P

keep tunned...
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Unread 11-21-2002, 03:30 PM   #4
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Uhh ... why the f*ck would you want to purposefully throttle back your CPU just to run it? Why not just stick with a HSF and be done with it?

What is the use of starting a project that adds added levels of complexity and a greater chance of system failure just for the "privilege" of getting less performance from your hardware? Am I the only one thinking this is nutty?
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Unread 11-21-2002, 04:03 PM   #5
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Well, it is a Kryotech unit, which is nice...

Unfortunately, as pHaestus pointed out, it just isn't powerful enough for today's CPU.

Satanicoo: congratulations on getting it to work again.

Even with specs (which you can google), I think you'll find that not only is it underpowered, it's also quite un-modifiable. In order to get it to work on a recent P4, you'd have to upgrade the pump and the tubing, at the very least.

Check out Bowman's thread, it might help.
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Unread 11-21-2002, 05:27 PM   #6
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heh lol...

airspirit: i only said it to justify that im not afraid to burn my cpu: it will trottle down if overheat. of course, if it does trottle down, ill trow kryo's to garbage (or sell it anyone? ;P)

BigBen2k: Thanks, but it isnt working completely, i have to start it manually. Anyway, everiones saying that it isnt powered enouf to cool the cpu, but like i said, since the cpu dos trottle down, i will test it...

BTW: i've already modified it ... you just have to isolate it completely, so no condensation occurs...

Stay tunned...
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Unread 11-21-2002, 06:37 PM   #7
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what would you take for that unit? i'll buy it off of you if the price is reasonable.. pm me or aim: bikrdotnet or email of course bikr@bikr.net later
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Unread 11-21-2002, 06:43 PM   #8
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Oh. I thought you were looking at a permanent solution. I have to admit, I almost shot my Cheerios out my nose when I saw that. Now it makes sense to me.
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Unread 11-21-2002, 09:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by airspirit
... I have to admit, I almost shot my Cheerios out my nose when I saw that. Now it makes sense to me.
Now WHY did you have to go and say that?

I can't get the visual out of my head!
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Unread 11-22-2002, 01:57 PM   #10
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I actually have a pair of these that I got off of ebay dirtcheap.
They are the slot a variety's, don't think they made to many of the renegades (slot1)...mostly socket 370, slot a and socket A.
A friend of mines want to do what this thread is asking about, but I agree, that it won't be powerful enough to cool it down..
What i'm suggesting to do, as it's what i'm going to do...
Use the phase change cooling connected to a heat exchanger block, and chill a water cooled system.
Have it setup like system--->res--->pump--->rad--->heat exchanger/kryotech--->system...
You'll get better performance that way, and will be able to handle more load on the CPU/vid/northbridge, if you see fit to do so..
It wouldn't be hard either..
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Unread 11-22-2002, 02:04 PM   #11
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Now that is a good idea. It would just remove an extra 50W or so from your coolant. He'd still be better off with a cheap dehumidifier for that application.
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Unread 11-22-2002, 02:35 PM   #12
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you'd be suprised...
i've been messing with them..
and there really wouldn't be a load on the kryotech.
Ya gotta remember..
it gets the coolant down to -40...
given load....and water temps..you're gonna be looking at well decent temps.
he's running a 2400..I don't honestly think, that it would make that much of a difference once it's gone through the rad..
if he's got it setup correctly, it would work beautifully.
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Unread 11-22-2002, 10:33 PM   #13
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oollléeééé!

bigban2k: Big Big Big thanks for the bowmans's article, pretty good!

well, 5 guys saying it wont work, 1 saying it might! :P

shit i shall try it! im so dumb!

well, ill go to phase-cooling forums now... thanks!!
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Unread 11-22-2002, 10:40 PM   #14
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oh crap..i'm the single guy?
uh....I offer no warranty nor guarantee on my statement..
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Unread 11-23-2002, 03:55 PM   #15
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AHA!

not a slot 1 kryo's, but a Slot A!!

sorry for the bad info!

BTW: i atatched a screw with a wire all around it ( to make a heater) to test its cooling power.

The screw was 120 WATTS POWER and the kryotech's case did REMAIN at -32 degrees and started MAKING ICE ON THE SCREW!

i REAALY think it should be able to cool WAY down the b*tch ( i mean, the cpu)...

i shall try it this week!

keep tunned.......

PS: btw i would like to have an Bowman's opinion...

Last edited by satanicoo; 11-23-2002 at 05:03 PM.
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Unread 11-23-2002, 04:59 PM   #16
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condensing water on the screw is not a good thing..
the temp on the front panel is gonna remain around -32/-40...
you want the coldplate to form ice..if it does that with no load, then you should be fine.
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Unread 11-23-2002, 05:02 PM   #17
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ah shit, im not english u know... :P

i thought condensing=make ice

guess not :PP

i does make ice in the screw!

will edit the previous post.
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Unread 11-25-2002, 05:15 PM   #18
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hell... help! check this scheme... maybe you know where it connects?
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File Type: jpg kryo\'s layout2.jpg (64.1 KB, 201 views)
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Unread 11-25-2002, 10:50 PM   #19
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What do you need help with? What are you trying to connect?

You'll have to post a pic of the circuitboard (both sides) for us to help. Do you have a voltmeter? Do you have an oscilloscope?

To clear up the condensation issue: condensation can occur at +10 deg C, theoretically...
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Unread 11-26-2002, 04:38 AM   #20
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Have the wires been cut?, they usualy have a 'fool proof' connector on the end that'll only fit on one other connection. is there a connector block on the end of the wires you are trying to connect?...
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Unread 11-26-2002, 04:39 AM   #21
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the pic that i posted has a "where?" writen with 2 wires. were do they connect?

as long as i connect the 220v input, this 2 wires have 5 vcc, all the time

i have a multimeter, but not a oscilloscope.

the pic of the circuitboard will be hard to achieve... i think all of the pieces are connected onto an inside layer of circuitboard :shrug:

i was wondering if any of u have ever seen one box like this and know where does wires connect? the case is working, but thoes wires intrigate me...

BTW: Yes!! thoes wires have been cut off !! :shrug:

Last edited by satanicoo; 11-26-2002 at 07:00 AM.
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Unread 11-27-2002, 05:24 PM   #22
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OK!

the mounting is done... testing...

with air cooling, my p4 2400 went to 3000.

with this kryotech's case, i got a SUPERB, EXCENTIONAL... 3312...

bah!

but it looks cool ( i dont have a digital machine sorry!)

In WCPUID, it dysplays an error, and after that, shows the screen
saying it has a multiplier of 16 (hu??) and says i have a 204 mz bus...
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Unread 11-28-2002, 04:09 AM   #23
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Temperature?. I'd guess it's a bit unstable ...
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Unread 11-28-2002, 08:47 AM   #24
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idle: -4 degrees

prime95 after half an hour: 9 degrees

well, torture test in prime95 says fatal error: rounding 0.48xxxxxxxxxx, should be 0.4

i guess its a bit unstable
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Unread 11-28-2002, 11:33 AM   #25
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Have you done any condensation (water forming from air) proofing to the CPU?, Vasilene(petroleum jelly) on the CPU pins around the socket and Neoprene gaskets around the socket?. otherwise water will form around the 'heatsink/evaporator' and kill/bugger up your CPU if you're unlucky...

Those temps are OK, wonder what an AMD 2000+ + would be like?...
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