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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 01-10-2003, 12:10 PM   #26
-J-
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the upgrade would look like this
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Unread 01-10-2003, 12:14 PM   #27
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Why is the center part so thick ? I think you'll improve turbulence on the base plate by having a thinner center part. 10 or 15mm seems like enough.
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Unread 01-10-2003, 02:48 PM   #28
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im going to make several waterblocks.

so i will try a smaller one in a future revision.
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Unread 01-10-2003, 03:35 PM   #29
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r u milling the main hole out or just drilling it? i think im goin to try makin ur block for my p4 rig..
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Unread 01-10-2003, 04:54 PM   #30
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im drilling em.

in fact, i desided to make this design, cause i couldnt get a mill to work with.

the big hole in the acrilic, im making it with a device that u use with the drill. i dont know how u people call it in english. in spanish is "copa de corte" something like a cutting cup.

its a tube with teeth on one end. so instead of taking all the material away, it just cuts a cirunference around what you need to cut.

sorry that i cant be any more descriptive.

PS: mikey, im about to make another version for p4.

if you wish to contact me via ICQ, i might give you a hand with the design.
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Unread 01-10-2003, 05:19 PM   #31
Mikey Boo
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i think what u r tryin to say is a hole saw. does it attach to the drill bit or is it one piece? anh thanx for the help down the road too, i have to get sum supplies first b4 i kan play...
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Unread 01-11-2003, 10:04 AM   #32
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mikey, i guess it a hole saw.

some come with a drill bit in the middle, others dont, but you have to attach them into a drill bit.
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Unread 01-11-2003, 02:05 PM   #33
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J, make BP more like 2mm. 4mm is too much even with flat plate design.

Also I would extend a pipe from the inlet barb down towards the BP, I would start with a 8mm gap and then test. make it with copper tube and in 2 peice ( telescopic) will allow you to have virtualy infinite adjustment.

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Unread 01-11-2003, 09:41 PM   #34
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mmm i really liked that idea of a telescopic tube, at least for the testing prototype.

the base will be 2mm thick in the bumps.
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Unread 01-16-2003, 06:01 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by -J-
"copa de corte"

That sounds more impressive than hole saw, but yeah it is a hole saw. I like your design, I kinda think the pits are to far apart, but maybe not. Hard to tell from the pics the scale of it. I like it, very similar to what I been working on, jut on a larger scale.
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Unread 01-16-2003, 06:46 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jessfm
J, make BP more like 2mm. 4mm is too much even with flat plate design.
Not true. Unless you're pumping some pretty stupendous flow rates with a 1/2" barb, 2mm will be much worse than a 4mm base-plate for a dimpled base-plate design.

BillA has some pretty extensive real-world test data on this, backed up by Les56's excellent theoretical analyses.
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Unread 01-16-2003, 10:48 PM   #37
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i havent finished yet building the block, but i'v already been thinking on some upgrades.

what do you think on putting 2 inlets instead of one.

cause the inner diameter of the hoses, is 8mm, and thats sounds like too little.

the pump has an outlet of 1/4 inch. so i guess putting a Y adapter from that, and using a pair of hoses instead of only 1, may increase the water flowing though the block.

would that be good??
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Unread 01-16-2003, 11:12 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally posted by -J-


the pump has an outlet of 1/4 inch.

This is what will limit your flow. Adding anything over 1/4" will pretty much be useless. Anyone feel free to correct me.
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Unread 01-17-2003, 08:25 AM   #39
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but the inner diameter of the hoses, is 8mm, and thats even less than 1/4 inch.
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Unread 01-17-2003, 10:41 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by -J-
but the inner diameter of the hoses, is 8mm, and thats even less than 1/4 inch.
8mm times 2 if you use a Y adapter and two sets of hoses. Not saying it is a bad idea but your going to loose more flow that way than just one 1/4" hose.
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Unread 01-28-2003, 12:33 AM   #41
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how many mm are 1/4 inch??

im really not good at imperial measures
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Unread 01-28-2003, 01:30 AM   #42
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http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/

6.35mm.

I just dont know why they dont use the metric system .
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Unread 01-28-2003, 12:32 PM   #43
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thanks, they really should use the metric system...
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Unread 01-28-2003, 01:00 PM   #44
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How are you attaching the top plate to the acrylic?

Quote:
Originally posted by -J-
thanks, they really should use the metric system...
Yeah, we probably should, its much easier to use in thermodynamic applications; however, contractors, carpenters, any skilled tradesmen here use english units, so thats what the hardware stores use...its hard to get people to change when theyre stuck in their ways.
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Unread 01-28-2003, 01:43 PM   #45
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the top plate, the acrilic and the baseplate, will be attached using some screws and nuts.

it kind an acrilic sandwich
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Unread 01-28-2003, 01:48 PM   #46
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I get that all the time here. Most of the planning is done with the metric system and when its time to implement the darn thing, we have to convert everything to inches because the manufacturers dont do "metric".
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Unread 01-28-2003, 04:55 PM   #47
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btw, youve got a great looking design there. i look foward to seeing the finished product
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Unread 01-28-2003, 11:17 PM   #48
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me too

i've been desinging blocks for almost 2 years now. and this is the first one i will really build.

i dont like ghetto. i want every detail considered and checked for any problem.

i hope it will be a good and safe block.
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Unread 01-31-2003, 04:19 PM   #49
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Umm why would you use plastic? To make it look nicer, right?

But if you use a copper top, you will BARELLY see the side walls

So you might want to design a clear top as well.
But I for myself I would not put a waterblock in my rig if it is not 100% metal....
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Unread 01-31-2003, 11:17 PM   #50
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im using acrylic cause it easier to work with.

the looks are just a bonus
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