my blocks (in cad)

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 03:10 AM

i'm not exactly sure why i bother to make these, as i have no tools whatsoever to do so. maybe any of you will make one for me?

anyway this is my first attempt making a block (and using a cad program too). which block do you think would be most effective? each block has a 4mm base. all suggestions/advice is welcome and very appreciated.
thanks

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 03:10 AM

different angle:

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 03:11 AM

second block:

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 03:11 AM

different view:

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 03:57 AM

simple 1 in 2 out:

g.l.amour · 01-25-2003, 04:36 AM

all the blocks seem to have too much free height over the die area. if u could reduce that then my guess would be that the first would be the better performer.

the second i don't think will do too well although it looks really nice. (not enough velocity over die area).

the third might get good, but the rotating arms are pointless. better straighten those out and put the barbs stricly west and east of the inlet. that reduces flow resistance outside the die area a little, which is always good.

these comments are for tecless blocks, which without a doubt the first and the third are, the second one might be better for dual usage or tec only.

this is my humble opinion, there will others here who will be better at precising the eventual flaws.

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 01:27 PM

so you suggest shortening the height of the overall block so the top will be closer to the die? right now it's 13mm bottom of the cavity to the top of the block.

also, would making it a 1 in 2 out make a difference? just having the inlet in the middle.

and how thick woudl you suggest the top to be? 6mm?

thanks again.

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 01:35 PM

oops double post.

g.l.amour · 01-25-2003, 03:13 PM

lots of Q'z

something practical, buying copper in thicknesses above 10mm is gonna cost ya (pay per kg).

if one half would be plexi, then the other half could very well b 10mm. that would mean that with a BP thickness of 2mm, u'd still have 8mm left for the water. that should be pretty ideal (water velocity over flow).

- 8mm from bottom cavity to start point of plexy will be enough

- the top should be thick enough to safely thread in the barbs, i have no experience making threads in plexi.

- the blocks i have made have always been dual outlets. does it make a difference ...? not if u r not a freak of flow resistance. 2 outlets will certainly reduce flow resistance of your block, but if u use 3 90°z in your tubing setup then i guess it won't make too much of a difference.

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 04:08 PM

ok i took 5mm off the top. so now the cavity is 8mm deep. however the BP is still 4mm thick. i'm using solidworks and i can't figure out how to cut from the bottom....

anyway, how thick would you suggest the top to be if it's made out of copper?

what are the dimensions of the mounting holes on a socket A mobo. how far apart are they in each direction?

thanks again.

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 04:24 PM

here's the updated pic, i also cut out a 8mm cirlce in the middle of the fins for the center inlet. i figured 1/2" inlet, 3/8" outlet.

g.l.amour · 01-25-2003, 04:25 PM

http://www.dansdata.com/images/coolercomp/holes500.gif

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...es+motherboard

at ur service ;-)

as far as copper top goes. i know frag'n'stien has made a 6mm top. puzzdre has made a 5mm top.

so that can be certainly done, prolly less can also be done, but i can't vouch for less than 5mm.

u better make some blox dude

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 04:51 PM

great, thanks a lot. and i forgot to ask but what size screws are used for the mounting holes? 6-32? or something.

g.l.amour · 01-25-2003, 05:20 PM

i use metric size m4 bolts for the mobo - WB mounting. holes are drilled in 6mm

Puzzdre · 01-25-2003, 06:04 PM

Don't go less than 5 mm for the top thickness (copper top)! You could have some troubles fitting the barbs in it and leaks...

I never had any troubles fitting the barbs in 10 mm top (but it was bulky and heavy), and 5 mm thick top is IMHO a minimum, and I used a fair amount of teflon tape to seal the barbs in it. Could be better to use some liquid sealing (non permanent) from Loctite or similar.

Good luck!

torchedlh · 01-25-2003, 06:07 PM

ok i'll go with a 6mm top.
so m4 screws for mounting the WB to the mobo. but what is 6mm??

Puzzdre · 01-25-2003, 06:18 PM

6 mm are the mounting holes in the block. It gives you a little more freedom when mounting the block to wriggle it when checking the amount of pressure, and (nobody's perfect

) it's easier to avoid to mount the block onto the lip of the cpu socket...

You could make them smaller I think, but didn't tried that:shrug:

Neomoses · 01-26-2003, 11:34 PM

I use 1/4" anodized aluminum for most of my tops. It's much easier to seal and get full thread engagement if the top is 1/4" or thicker.

Cathar · 01-27-2003, 12:37 AM

I use 3/16" (~4.75mm) thick copper plate for the tops of my blocks. I wouldn't recommend much thinner. If you want to seal barbs well, grab some Loctite 567 liquid teflon thread sealant. Rated for ~10,000 PSI, which I find kinda hard to believe, but hey, even if they exaggerated pressure by 100-fold, it's still rated for almost 100x more pressure than the seals will ever see. I use BSP threads, which allows for about 3 thread turns in the 3/16" plate for the barbs to fit. Using the Loctite 567, I reckon you could get a leak-proof (as far as water-cooling is concerned) seal in one thread if you really wanted to push it.

As with most things in life, if you find the right tool for the job, then it opens a whole new world of "what's possible".

torchedlh · 01-27-2003, 02:58 AM

thanks for all the input... but i might just order a WW from you.

01-25-2003, 04:36 AM	#6
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	all the blocks seem to have too much free height over the die area. if u could reduce that then my guess would be that the first would be the better performer. the second i don't think will do too well although it looks really nice. (not enough velocity over die area). the third might get good, but the rotating arms are pointless. better straighten those out and put the barbs stricly west and east of the inlet. that reduces flow resistance outside the die area a little, which is always good. these comments are for tecless blocks, which without a doubt the first and the third are, the second one might be better for dual usage or tec only. this is my humble opinion, there will others here who will be better at precising the eventual flaws. __________________ yo soy un tiburón

01-25-2003, 01:27 PM	#7
torchedlh Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: sf, cali Posts: 18	so you suggest shortening the height of the overall block so the top will be closer to the die? right now it's 13mm bottom of the cavity to the top of the block. also, would making it a 1 in 2 out make a difference? just having the inlet in the middle. and how thick woudl you suggest the top to be? 6mm? thanks again. Last edited by torchedlh; 01-25-2003 at 01:37 PM.

01-25-2003, 03:13 PM	#9
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	lots of Q'z something practical, buying copper in thicknesses above 10mm is gonna cost ya (pay per kg). if one half would be plexi, then the other half could very well b 10mm. that would mean that with a BP thickness of 2mm, u'd still have 8mm left for the water. that should be pretty ideal (water velocity over flow). - 8mm from bottom cavity to start point of plexy will be enough - the top should be thick enough to safely thread in the barbs, i have no experience making threads in plexi. - the blocks i have made have always been dual outlets. does it make a difference ...? not if u r not a freak of flow resistance. 2 outlets will certainly reduce flow resistance of your block, but if u use 3 90°z in your tubing setup then i guess it won't make too much of a difference. __________________ yo soy un tiburón

01-25-2003, 04:25 PM	#12
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	http://www.dansdata.com/images/coolercomp/holes500.gif http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...es+motherboard at ur service ;-) as far as copper top goes. i know frag'n'stien has made a 6mm top. puzzdre has made a 5mm top. so that can be certainly done, prolly less can also be done, but i can't vouch for less than 5mm. u better make some blox dude __________________ yo soy un tiburón

01-25-2003, 04:51 PM	#13
torchedlh Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: sf, cali Posts: 18	great, thanks a lot. and i forgot to ask but what size screws are used for the mounting holes? 6-32? or something. Last edited by torchedlh; 01-25-2003 at 05:03 PM.

01-25-2003, 01:35 PM	#8
torchedlh Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: sf, cali Posts: 18	oops double post.

01-25-2003, 04:08 PM	#10
torchedlh Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: sf, cali Posts: 18	ok i took 5mm off the top. so now the cavity is 8mm deep. however the BP is still 4mm thick. i'm using solidworks and i can't figure out how to cut from the bottom.... anyway, how thick would you suggest the top to be if it's made out of copper? what are the dimensions of the mounting holes on a socket A mobo. how far apart are they in each direction? thanks again.

01-25-2003, 05:20 PM	#14
g.l.amour Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: on da case Posts: 933	i use metric size m4 bolts for the mobo - WB mounting. holes are drilled in 6mm __________________ yo soy un tiburón

01-25-2003, 06:04 PM	#15
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Don't go less than 5 mm for the top thickness (copper top)! You could have some troubles fitting the barbs in it and leaks... I never had any troubles fitting the barbs in 10 mm top (but it was bulky and heavy), and 5 mm thick top is IMHO a minimum, and I used a fair amount of teflon tape to seal the barbs in it. Could be better to use some liquid sealing (non permanent) from Loctite or similar. Good luck! __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

01-25-2003, 06:07 PM	#16
torchedlh Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: sf, cali Posts: 18	ok i'll go with a 6mm top. so m4 screws for mounting the WB to the mobo. but what is 6mm??

01-25-2003, 06:18 PM	#17
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	6 mm are the mounting holes in the block. It gives you a little more freedom when mounting the block to wriggle it when checking the amount of pressure, and (nobody's perfect ) it's easier to avoid to mount the block onto the lip of the cpu socket... You could make them smaller I think, but didn't tried that:shrug: __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

01-26-2003, 11:34 PM	#18
Neomoses Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Rolla, MO Posts: 51	I use 1/4" anodized aluminum for most of my tops. It's much easier to seal and get full thread engagement if the top is 1/4" or thicker.

01-27-2003, 12:37 AM	#19
Cathar Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 2,538	I use 3/16" (~4.75mm) thick copper plate for the tops of my blocks. I wouldn't recommend much thinner. If you want to seal barbs well, grab some Loctite 567 liquid teflon thread sealant. Rated for ~10,000 PSI, which I find kinda hard to believe, but hey, even if they exaggerated pressure by 100-fold, it's still rated for almost 100x more pressure than the seals will ever see. I use BSP threads, which allows for about 3 thread turns in the 3/16" plate for the barbs to fit. Using the Loctite 567, I reckon you could get a leak-proof (as far as water-cooling is concerned) seal in one thread if you really wanted to push it. As with most things in life, if you find the right tool for the job, then it opens a whole new world of "what's possible".

01-27-2003, 02:58 AM	#20
torchedlh Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: sf, cali Posts: 18	thanks for all the input... but i might just order a WW from you.

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