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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 05-22-2003, 03:47 PM   #76
nicozeg
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So clearly araldite is not good with water. In squirrel it don't matter, cause it's still filling the leak points and is not working as structural support.

Silicone is not as bad as you may think; when aplied over a very clean and degreased surface it can be a very good adhesive.

The epoxy I use for waterproof aplication is the one used for fiber impregnation on reinforced plastics. Unfortunately the smallest quantity usually sold is 1 Kg and has a shelf life of about a year, maybe two. Not very practical if you need it only to bond small parts. :shrug:
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Unread 05-22-2003, 04:12 PM   #77
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Yeah. I need an adhesive which isn't fussy about the surface. Is JB weld or plumber's goop good then?
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Unread 05-23-2003, 12:51 AM   #78
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Go with silicone, use it between the contact surfaces and a thick cord sealing the perimeter. It's going to look a bit ugly but I guess it don't matters in this block

When applied over a clean surface, it's adhesive strenght can be near 20 Kg/cm2. A 5mm thick cord over the perimeter of a 5cm square gives 10 cm2 of contact area, or 200 KG. Using a safety factor of 0.5 it still can hold 100 kg. More than enough for the task.

That's what I used for my block, It's not the best looking but completely stiff. You can see more details about it here.
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Unread 05-23-2003, 05:07 AM   #79
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The problem is that the are of contact is really small. A 1mm edge. I tried silicone before but pressre blasted the silicone away
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Unread 05-23-2003, 12:26 PM   #80
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What was the main condition for a good adhesion I told you?

CLEAN SURFACE!

If you have fingergrease over the copper, you are bonding to the grease, not the metal!

So please try again, this time sand the copper, clean it with alcohol, and apply the silicone inmediately, without touching the parts.

And how do you think is the contact area of my copper cap? It's also 1 mm thick, that's why I reinforced the edge with a thick cord.

You have two flat areas to the sides that provide enough surpface to hold the block parts together, you only need to seal the narrow sides to avoid leaks, not for support.
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Unread 05-23-2003, 02:02 PM   #81
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Ok, I'll keep that in mind then.
As an indication, how much time does silicone take to cure itself?
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Unread 07-09-2003, 08:55 AM   #82
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Ok, so I had a chance to test this block. It fares well against the maze3. With the 2400+ I had a 2C difference (in favor of shitblock).
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Unread 07-09-2003, 11:47 AM   #83
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any pics of it in action m8
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Unread 07-09-2003, 12:56 PM   #84
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here, I'll also update the squirrel thread:
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