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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 05-18-2003, 06:02 AM   #26
Puzzdre
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Many Many thx, g_f!!!

In one of the shops I was asking for lexan, I actually saw the reversed tooth saw, but didn't know it can be just plain high tooth saw reversed!

THX THX THX!

Gonna try that soon!

Cheers
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Unread 05-18-2003, 10:03 PM   #27
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I'm using a 10" 80 carbide tooth finishing blade that is also recomended for plastics on a radial arm saw.

You know you are over the top when you pay $60 for a blade to cut bits of plastic.

Now I wonder how that blade will work turned around........on a radial arm saw. Wish I had a tabel saw to, add to the wish list. Right after the band saw and the belt sander.

Sould have it in about 2 years.

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Unread 05-19-2003, 05:00 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blackeagle

You know you are over the top when you pay $60 for a blade to cut bits of plastic.

Now I wonder how that blade will work turned around........on a radial arm saw. Wish I had a tabel saw to, add to the wish list. Right after the band saw and the belt sander.

Sould have it in about 2 years.
LOL, yup, I still do not know a hobby that is cheap. Collecting paper napkins or sugar bags in coffee shops maybe...
There's always another tool.

Belt sander would be nice. Good idea, off to write to Santa.

The circular table saw I have is small, hobby thingie my father got from his friends for bday. Think it's gonna see some usage now

Cheers!
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Unread 05-19-2003, 06:27 PM   #29
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For what we are doing smaller saws and sanders are fine. I've located a very small 9" band saw that should do all I wish it to. Will also save space & cost.

Sander is also a compact one, but still has both wide & narrow belts. Or it can be had with a disk instead of the wide belt.

Your small table saw is I'd bet much easier to word with than a large radial arm saw is for small items like block tops. And you can buy 2-3 blades for what one large one costs.
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Unread 05-19-2003, 06:55 PM   #30
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What is the ID of the 14.5mm barbs you are using Pazzdre? And do you drill them out to get a bit extra through put for the same OD size?
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Unread 05-20-2003, 03:40 AM   #31
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The barbs are made in one machine shop here, locally, and the id is (for this blocks) 10 mm, and the threaded end is 16 x 1.5 (it's supposed to be very similar to 3/8, the 16 x 1.5 is widely used here for hydraulic applications). I cannot drill them wider, cos the upper part is made to accept the 12 mm tube, so it's too thin. On the other hand, last time I got him to make me several pieces of 10 mm ID, and several of 12 mm ID, both with same threaded end, so if there's any need for larger ID, no prob. unless the ID wanted is not wider than 14 mm or little less.

Cheers!
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Unread 05-20-2003, 07:48 AM   #32
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hohoho

io puzzdre, care to share with me where you got your plexi from? the hobbyist retailers i know only carry low Q plates with max 2mm thickness, so i had to glue 5 plates together to get 10mm.

it made it that much more painfull when screwing up.
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Unread 05-20-2003, 06:45 PM   #33
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Duh, there are shops here (like small family bussiness) that cut, fold, glue and engrave signs, small price tags, price list holders in restaurants, mostly anything you need from plexy, but the thing is, they rarely use thicker than 6 mm. The piece I got is 8 mm thick, and a guy in one of those shops agreed to sell it to me, somewhat 1/8 of a square meter for approx 15 euro. It turned out that that plexy is premium quality, cos I worked (fan shroud for my bro's rig) with 2 mm and 4 mm low q plexy bought in regular hobbyst shop, and it was gummy, scratched most easily, cracked even easier etc...
I was lucky cos' the guy sold me this piece he had (when I asked for 10 mm and thicker, he just laughed ) cos' they're not eager to sell the material they work with. This was the scrap piece of the thickness just too thick for their applications.

Although I ruined quite a few tops, still got more than enough for my needs, and (THK YOU BLACKEAGLE ) some lexan on the way, just pm me with dimensions and address, and I'll send you some right away.

Just gimme some time to cut it right

Cheers m8!
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Unread 05-21-2003, 09:49 AM   #34
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thx for the proposition: apreciate it

but i'm gonna try holding out on the bl0xoring till next fall. i feel too geeky building WB's when the summer is approaching.
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Unread 05-21-2003, 05:52 PM   #35
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NP, if you change your mind, pm me

A quick note for me (and all the newbs making the blocks): do not try to seal the block with silicone without cleaning and de-greasing the surfaces with acetone or something. I just did, and now I have to re-seal the blocks.

So, first clean 'em up nicely, than add sealant and test 'em.

damn, do I feel stupid.
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Unread 05-31-2003, 05:42 AM   #36
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Here are the finished bunch...I'm also on dial up, but I like to see the pics, I'm sure you won't bitch too much...

Sealed and tested for leaks. I'll prolly install them in next week or two
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Unread 05-31-2003, 05:44 AM   #37
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Sealed with silicone, plexy is flame polished on the edges...
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Unread 05-31-2003, 05:46 AM   #38
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another one...
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Unread 05-31-2003, 05:50 AM   #39
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Chipset blocks have 10 mm thick copper, 4 mm base, 8 mm plexy top, 10 mm ID barbs, cpu block is 5 mm thick copper, channels dremelled with emery disc to 3 - 3.5 mm deep, approx 1 mm wide...
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Unread 05-31-2003, 05:55 AM   #40
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Last one, for now

I'd like to thank EVERYBODY here on the forums, for sharing the tips, knowledge, and kind words!

Thanx ppl!

(anybody have some lemon to share, I gotta remove this smile from my face somehow )

And ofcourse, big thanx to #Rotor, for sharing the design in all the details!
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Unread 06-01-2003, 05:03 AM   #41
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I won't bitch at all, I love pics!! ...

Watch out for the after affects of lemon sucking! ...
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Unread 06-01-2003, 08:48 AM   #42
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@g.l.amour

i know where you can get 5mm thick plexi ( i don't know if they got any thicker but i think so )
you van get them in the direco

greetz
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Unread 06-02-2003, 05:47 PM   #43
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Congrats Puzzdre, they all came out great! Very sharp.

Did you do a Rotor block to compare with your multi V design?

Look forward to seeing your results when you have them installed.
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Unread 06-04-2003, 08:53 PM   #44
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My friend! you are most welcome... You do indeed fly the flag of the STTC (shade tree technicians consortium) in a way that make me proud to be assosiated with them...
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Unread 06-05-2003, 05:44 PM   #45
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Blackeagle, no, still didn't have the time to make a #Rotor block for comparision. Waiting for some nice tops to arrive ... Duh, the blocks are not at my hands at this time, I gave them to my bro to take the pics with a digicam, I'll collect 'em next week (and hopefully install them, this is taking too long even for my 'fast' way of doing things )

MDM, lemon didn't help at all, not I just made the blocks, I also got myself an VW golf II GTI...zooom, zooom.... ....although, that ate all the money I was saving to buy a mill...back to saving (and being VERY persuasive to get Her to see that the mill is a wonderful thing that every hobbyst got to have )

#Rotor, all I can say,

THANK YOU, AGAIN!
I just enjoy this. And that's the point, isn't it

Thx ppl!
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Unread 06-05-2003, 05:56 PM   #46
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Quote:
VW golf II GTI.
wow that's wonderful

is it the 2.0l version ??? have a pic?? btw i love cars
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Unread 06-05-2003, 06:00 PM   #47
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i think the mill will be better to swalow for tha missus if u got her that large house with proper toolshed to go along with the mill, but the basement of the appartment... ?

i can see a truckload of manhours invested in those beaties dude, considering how long it took my plexi top dremel 'CNC' block to make.
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Unread 06-05-2003, 06:26 PM   #48
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Balinju, no it's 1.8 l, 82 kW (112HP), momo alu wheels, goodyear f1 tyres, PowerFul exhaust, kenwood music, gearbox from 16 valve and cobra alarm need some paintwork, but good and fast. Gonna have some pics after the painting (in a month or two)

g.l., LOL, no, the basement is not the option , but I can put the mill at my grandma's house (10 mins walking from my appt). The thing is that I need a car of my own for work (and pleasure, ofcourse ), I'll find the mill... soon I hope!

The blocks didn't took me some serious time cos I wasn't in a hurry. Think that most of the time was consumed to saw the plexy with the modellers saw, and to sand the pieces. It's summer time, days are long enough to work slowly and patiently...

Thx for the support, and the offer for plexy is still on

Cheers!
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Unread 06-05-2003, 07:07 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally posted by Puzzdre
Balinju, no it's 1.8 l, 82 kW (112HP), momo alu wheels, goodyear f1 tyres, PowerFul exhaust, kenwood music, gearbox from 16 valve and cobra alarm need some paintwork, but good and fast. Gonna have some pics after the painting (in a month or two)
nice that rocks, but my dream car still remains a mitsubishi evo
we have a lancer glx version which when i will get a job, i.e. in 4 yrs time mininum, it will be modified until it cannot hold anymore
I already have something in mind, but that is too far away, i am still 17
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Unread 06-06-2003, 04:28 AM   #50
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@da_boka, thx m8 i'll keep that in mind, seeing all this DIY goodness makes my fingers itch again. is your finish all ready yet? don't forget to post some visuals here.

@Puzzdre, and another thx for yet another proposition, but da_boka pointed me to a shop not for away from me.
shiew, with all this sexualization of cars, i should be posting some pics of my hotrod bike then ...
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