My New Block Design

-J- · 06-05-2003, 12:12 PM

well, i've just finished my first WC rig, so i started working on its improved replacement.

mi first block its quite simple, with a basic performance. i have very little tools available for making it, so i didnt asked too much.

but now, a friend offered me to make my blocks with this baby at his work

its specs are quite impressive, so i could let my imagination fly a little more for my new block.

basically this new design is based in several ideas i saw here, with a few of my own.

the block will be used with a 1/4hp pump, with a nominal pressure of 6 bar and 1000 lts/h up to 8m.

i hope this combo will led me to quite good numbers.

any suggestion to improve the design is welcomed.

PS: thanks to cathar, bigben, jaydee and several other people who's work inspired me to make this block.

bigben2k · 06-05-2003, 01:02 PM

Nice. That should perform well, especially with that pump!

Which pump is it?

jaydee · 06-05-2003, 01:40 PM

Looks pretty good!

Tacops · 06-05-2003, 02:39 PM

Can you explain us the path of water going trough the block?

GTA · 06-05-2003, 02:44 PM

Top notch, I like the middle plate design.

The benefit of course is that if you add more components to the system, NB and GFX blocks for example, you can take out the middle plate and it'll act as a 1-4 manifold as well.

Obviously you'd lose the jet effect, but you could make another middle plate that kept the cross shapped nozzle, but didn't recombine the 4 outlets into 2.

Great work.

bigben2k · 06-05-2003, 02:45 PM

Inlet is the middle, outlet consists of two barbs, which each collect the output from two corners (routed through the middle layer), a la Morphling1.

MMZ_TimeLord · 06-05-2003, 03:56 PM

There is actually no reason you could not machine a single piece that would function as both the top and middle piece do.

It would be a little more complicated to machine, but not much... and you could taper your flow through the jet area too.

Just a thought.

-J- · 06-05-2003, 04:05 PM

timelord, now you mention it, yes i could make it simplier.

because now i remember when i was designing it, i was planning on using Orings to seal it. but the i changed my mind and choose silicone as sealant.

so i will make a new revision without the mid plate.

but dont know wich one i will finally make, the mid plate looks quite cool actually.

bigben, this would be the pump. its quite cheap and really powerfull, the downside its the it sucks more than 250w.

PS: any idea to improve the jet design??

winewood · 06-05-2003, 05:00 PM

Why dont you eliminate that middle peice all together.

Place a gathering poing at the tip of the <>
<X>

This way you save on material, reduce the need to combine in the middle layer.

Basically it would look like an infinity symbol. An 8 on its side.

-J- · 06-05-2003, 05:25 PM

yes that was the moddification i was thinking when timelord suggested that i could eliminate the mid plate.

im still considering it.

trit187 · 06-05-2003, 07:38 PM

what thickness were of thinking of for the bp, and how deep of chanells?

cyr · 06-06-2003, 02:50 AM

Damn! That's almost exactly the design I'm considering for my block. Except I'm planning to dremel it at home.

Better wear my tinfoil hat while designing i n the future....

-J- · 06-06-2003, 05:19 AM

the baseplate is 6mm tall, and the channels will be 4 - 4.5mm deep.

Balinju · 06-06-2003, 07:02 AM

nice block. i think it would perfrom quite nicly.

i think you made a mistake, i think that 6 mm is the whole block not the base plate and if the channels are 4 mm deep, then the base plate would be 2 mm

MMZ_TimeLord · 06-06-2003, 09:04 AM

No, he meant the baseplate is 6mm thick, with the channels that are milled into it being 4 to 4.5 mm deep. this would leave 1.5 to 2 mm thickness to the core.

As for improving the jets, I was thinking on this last night and you could grind a drill bit to a steeper angle like this " \/ " so that you could drill tapered holes in the locations over the small Xs created by your pattern... seeing as how I don't have any CAD stuff at work, I will try to post something during lunch when I'm at home.

Balinju · 06-06-2003, 09:10 AM

the baseplate is the distance from the deeper point of the channels to the other point where the copper finished. i dont know how clear this is.

let me give an example, if i take a 10mm copper chunk and mill 7mm channels in it, then the baseplate is not 10mm but 10-7 which is 3mm.

hope that it is clear now

UnloadeD · 06-06-2003, 09:35 AM

Looks nice, but I have a few questions.
1) Why an X instead of something like the WW? It seems to double the amount of tooling, if you want pins instead of fins, you could easily do that if it were oriented like the WW. I understand you not wanting to copy cathar exactly, but I wonder if you think there is a cooling advantage to how you are doing it?
2) Why not eliminate the fins outside of the pin area? Them being outside of the core area, and your flow rate being divided by 4, I doubt they will do much cooling. If you remove the material there before making the small channels, it will save a lot of tool time and wear/tear on those mini mills.

I'm not criticizig, just curious like I said. I hope to soon start trying to make some blocks myself and I'm trying to get better ideas of the how's and why's of it all.

peace.
unloaded

MMZ_TimeLord · 06-06-2003, 10:12 AM

My bad there Balinju... I get confused easily... his baseplate would be 1.5 to 2mm then.

Got bored here... friday and all... made a general drawing of what I was talking about in Visio... hope it's clear enough...

-J- · 06-06-2003, 04:27 PM

timelord, that looks really nice i will make it that way.

unloaded, i guess that as heat spreads in every direction, this way it would be quite nice.

anyway, i didnt want to have a WW clone, i wanted to have a block designed by me

-J- · 06-06-2003, 09:54 PM

well, this is the new revision, taking into account timelord's suggestions.

winewood · 06-06-2003, 11:42 PM

sweeet. Another home design procooling enhanced design emerges!! awsome.

MMZ_TimeLord · 06-07-2003, 01:20 PM

Thanks -J-

Looks like a winnner... Glad to know I have a good idea now and then...

Let me know how it works out... I may make one along those designs... IF I ever get my mill out of storage again...

t00lb0x · 06-07-2003, 01:56 PM

Looks great but how does it preform?

satanicoo · 06-07-2003, 03:12 PM

In the pin zone, how about letting small 1mm walls between them to make a cup effect?

-J- · 06-08-2003, 12:14 PM

satanicoo, thats a nice one, i will add that into the design

06-05-2003, 12:12 PM	#1
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	My New Block Design well, i've just finished my first WC rig, so i started working on its improved replacement. mi first block its quite simple, with a basic performance. i have very little tools available for making it, so i didnt asked too much. but now, a friend offered me to make my blocks with this baby at his work its specs are quite impressive, so i could let my imagination fly a little more for my new block. basically this new design is based in several ideas i saw here, with a few of my own. the block will be used with a 1/4hp pump, with a nominal pressure of 6 bar and 1000 lts/h up to 8m. i hope this combo will led me to quite good numbers. any suggestion to improve the design is welcomed. PS: thanks to cathar, bigben, jaydee and several other people who's work inspired me to make this block. Last edited by -J-; 06-05-2003 at 12:21 PM.

06-05-2003, 01:02 PM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Nice. That should perform well, especially with that pump! Which pump is it? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-05-2003, 02:39 PM	#4
Tacops Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Malta,Europe Posts: 32	Can you explain us the path of water going trough the block? __________________ NetAdmin By Day,AMD Lover By Night

06-05-2003, 02:45 PM	#6
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Inlet is the middle, outlet consists of two barbs, which each collect the output from two corners (routed through the middle layer), a la Morphling1. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

06-05-2003, 03:56 PM	#7
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	There is actually no reason you could not machine a single piece that would function as both the top and middle piece do. It would be a little more complicated to machine, but not much... and you could taper your flow through the jet area too. Just a thought. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

06-05-2003, 01:40 PM	#3
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Looks pretty good!

06-05-2003, 02:44 PM	#5
GTA Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: UK - Bristol Posts: 134	Top notch, I like the middle plate design. The benefit of course is that if you add more components to the system, NB and GFX blocks for example, you can take out the middle plate and it'll act as a 1-4 manifold as well. Obviously you'd lose the jet effect, but you could make another middle plate that kept the cross shapped nozzle, but didn't recombine the 4 outlets into 2. Great work.

06-05-2003, 04:05 PM	#8
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	timelord, now you mention it, yes i could make it simplier. because now i remember when i was designing it, i was planning on using Orings to seal it. but the i changed my mind and choose silicone as sealant. so i will make a new revision without the mid plate. but dont know wich one i will finally make, the mid plate looks quite cool actually. bigben, this would be the pump. its quite cheap and really powerfull, the downside its the it sucks more than 250w. PS: any idea to improve the jet design??

06-05-2003, 05:00 PM	#9
winewood Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: in my chair Posts: 574	Why dont you eliminate that middle peice all together. Place a gathering poing at the tip of the <> <X> This way you save on material, reduce the need to combine in the middle layer. Basically it would look like an infinity symbol. An 8 on its side. __________________ -winewood-

06-05-2003, 05:25 PM	#10
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	yes that was the moddification i was thinking when timelord suggested that i could eliminate the mid plate. im still considering it.

06-05-2003, 07:38 PM	#11
trit187 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: shanghai, china Posts: 200	what thickness were of thinking of for the bp, and how deep of chanells?

06-06-2003, 02:50 AM	#12
cyr Cooling Neophyte Join Date: May 2003 Location: sweden Posts: 8	Damn! That's almost exactly the design I'm considering for my block. Except I'm planning to dremel it at home. Better wear my tinfoil hat while designing i n the future....

06-06-2003, 05:19 AM	#13
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	the baseplate is 6mm tall, and the channels will be 4 - 4.5mm deep.

06-06-2003, 07:02 AM	#14
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	nice block. i think it would perfrom quite nicly. i think you made a mistake, i think that 6 mm is the whole block not the base plate and if the channels are 4 mm deep, then the base plate would be 2 mm __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

06-06-2003, 09:04 AM	#15
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	No, he meant the baseplate is 6mm thick, with the channels that are milled into it being 4 to 4.5 mm deep. this would leave 1.5 to 2 mm thickness to the core. As for improving the jets, I was thinking on this last night and you could grind a drill bit to a steeper angle like this " \/ " so that you could drill tapered holes in the locations over the small Xs created by your pattern... seeing as how I don't have any CAD stuff at work, I will try to post something during lunch when I'm at home. __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

06-06-2003, 09:10 AM	#16
Balinju Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Malta Posts: 495	the baseplate is the distance from the deeper point of the channels to the other point where the copper finished. i dont know how clear this is. let me give an example, if i take a 10mm copper chunk and mill 7mm channels in it, then the baseplate is not 10mm but 10-7 which is 3mm. hope that it is clear now __________________ So the bullet proof vest aint a $hit when d laser is pointed to your head Kid

06-06-2003, 09:35 AM	#17
UnloadeD Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: MidWest USA Posts: 176	Looks nice, but I have a few questions. 1) Why an X instead of something like the WW? It seems to double the amount of tooling, if you want pins instead of fins, you could easily do that if it were oriented like the WW. I understand you not wanting to copy cathar exactly, but I wonder if you think there is a cooling advantage to how you are doing it? 2) Why not eliminate the fins outside of the pin area? Them being outside of the core area, and your flow rate being divided by 4, I doubt they will do much cooling. If you remove the material there before making the small channels, it will save a lot of tool time and wear/tear on those mini mills. I'm not criticizig, just curious like I said. I hope to soon start trying to make some blocks myself and I'm trying to get better ideas of the how's and why's of it all. peace. unloaded

06-06-2003, 04:27 PM	#19
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	timelord, that looks really nice i will make it that way. unloaded, i guess that as heat spreads in every direction, this way it would be quite nice. anyway, i didnt want to have a WW clone, i wanted to have a block designed by me

06-06-2003, 11:42 PM	#21
winewood Cooling Savant Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: in my chair Posts: 574	sweeet. Another home design procooling enhanced design emerges!! awsome. __________________ -winewood-

06-07-2003, 01:20 PM	#22
MMZ_TimeLord Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth Posts: 433	Thanks -J- Looks like a winnner... Glad to know I have a good idea now and then... Let me know how it works out... I may make one along those designs... IF I ever get my mill out of storage again... __________________ MMZ>TimeLord "Oooooooooh... that's gonna leave a mark!"

06-07-2003, 01:56 PM	#23
t00lb0x Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2003 Location: In a box Posts: 221	Looks great but how does it preform? __________________ "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit"

06-08-2003, 12:14 PM	#25
-J- Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina Posts: 217	satanicoo, thats a nice one, i will add that into the design

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