Silicone to connect & seal the base/top?

[Teus]

Hi there

I've bought this stuff, this is printed on it
Trans 7 (aka TEC7) Clear, it's polymer based. it keeps elastic (so you can stretch it a bit), it's waterproof, doesn't shrink or tear apart and works under conditions from -30 to +95° all the time.

I'm thinking of glueing all my stuff together with this silicone, is it a good idea?

[#Rotor]

it is a good idea indeed, yes. "Marine Goop" is another very good very strong one...

[Teus]

Originally posted by #Rotor
it is a good idea indeed, yes. "Marine Goop" is another very good very strong one...

good to hear that. I don't want to spend my money (yet) on taps, so I'll buy a hollow pipe of copper, and connect it to the top of my waterblock. would you rather use that silicone or solder it?
I've got a 25W soldering and a hot air pistol to melt paint off available.

[jaydee]

Originally posted by Teus
good to hear that. I don't want to spend my money (yet) on taps, so I'll buy a hollow pipe of copper, and connect it to the top of my waterblock. would you rather use that silicone or solder it?
I've got a 25W soldering and a hot air pistol to melt paint off available.

Do not use silicone to install barbs. They will easily pull off when you hook up the hose. Thread the holes and then use the silicone on the threads of the barb to seal it. Or solder the pipe on. Going to need more than a 25watt and hot air pistol though. Get a small propane torch used by plumbers to solder pipes.

[Teus]

a torch, heavy artillery. I've got a neighbour with lots of old, forged tools and I know he's got a huge soldering iron to solder big stuff together. I'll ask him, or one of those guys that're placing our new bathroom this summer

thanks for the info

[jaydee]

Originally posted by Teus
a torch, heavy artillery. I've got a neighbour with lots of old, forged tools and I know he's got a huge soldering iron to solder big stuff together. I'll ask him, or one of those guys that're placing our new bathroom this summer

thanks for the info

This is what I am talking about. A solfdering iron isn't going to work on a thicker material. You need to heat the material up untill it will melt the solder.

[MadDogMe]

I'm thinking of glueing all my stuff together with this silicone, is it a good idea?

I would'nt rely on the sealant alone. Use bolts to clap it all together and rely on the sealant as a sealant not a glue . I use a block with the 'barbs' (copper pipe) 'glued' in with silicone sealant and it's OK. It's copper to polycarb though, not Cu to Cu. As long as you key up both surfaces nicely with very rough sandpaper it should be OK IMO. Fish tanks rarely fall apart and they don't even get 'keyed up' ...

Cu to Cu you might as well solder though, for peace of mind if anything. a blowtorch is a useful adition to the tool collection as well. Good for heating up and freeing off 'frozen' bolts/nuts ect, and essential for taking pedal-cranks off of push-bikes ...

[dreamie]

I would say use thread tape [after you have tapped the top] and perhaps some waterproof epoxy or plumbers goop to further seal the barb connection at the top.

With copper top i would go for either welding or soldering.

[Teus]

I haven't got stuff to make threads (not affordable right now), and I'm thinking of this:

-a big hole in the bottom block that's 5mm deep
-a smaller hole through both blocks
-put a screw through the smaller hole, and clamp it using a nut: the nut will be located where the bigger hole was

here's a pic, hope you understand it

[#Rotor]

you are on the right track there...

[Teus]

some pics

just a small NB block, nothing special. first thing is to master that drill

[Teus]

attach