Midnight Disaster Need Help!!!

[sevisehda]

Since my rig acts as our residential gateway I decided to switch the system over when it would least effect everyone. That being the middle of the night. I thought I had everything planned and tested. But as I was doing the last test, that being powering the pump while inside the case with the MB and HDs. I realized the radiator had sprung a leak. I'm using a 90ford escort heater core as my radiator. Since it has no mounting bracket of its own I thought I could just shove some small blots through the fins and be fine. The radiator thoguht otherwise. While being upset I acidently spilled more H2O on the MB, Ahhhh.

So while my system drys out...Does anyone have any tips on how to mount a heatercore? It is set up in the lower front of my case. I cut a large hole where it sits but left 1/2inch for mounting. I don't mind going tout to AutoZOne and picking up another Rad it was pretty cheap but the mounting issue is killing me.

Really any suggestions will do. Thanks for any suggestions.

-Sleepless and Soggy

[MadHacker]

It may not look good...
but duct tape is my best friend

[Pyrotechnic]

Did you get your heater core used ?

[bigben2k]

I managed to mount mine, with zip ties.

I used one zip tie to run through the core, where the head of the tie retains the core against a screw hole, and I clipped another zip tie for the fastener, and secured the core that way, on the backside.

I just wanted to avoid damaging the core with a screw, and I didn't want to try to cram a nylon screw through the core.

[sevisehda]

The heatercore was an '82 ford escort w/ ac new from Autozone, the last one they had in stock. After inspecting it I noticed that one of the screws I used punctured one of the side walls. I've been busy all day so all the parts are still splayed apart in my office. Hopefully I find some time to run to the Autozone in the next town over then to sears for some zipties and new fittings. Thanks for all the suggestions. Hopefully I'll be able to post some pics tonight if all goes well.

[Razor6]

In case zipties aren't your thing you could also make tank frames like I have on my heater core. The pic shows one end of a 2 pass core, making the other side tank is pretty self explanatory. This method has a more clean look, in my opinion anyway.

[sevisehda]

I finally got some time and got a new Rad. I decided ince everything went wrong I should expect more so I put in an old MB so incase something happens I won't lose something I care about.



From left to right. My PVC, stack is a combo Resevoir, filltube, unManifold. It cost me next to nothing but I think it will be the first thing I replace. It makes installing PCI cards a pain and the bubbles don't seem to come out very well.

The CPU block was made for an AMD so I decided since the P4 has good thermal prtection I could get away with some rubber bands and wire ties. I'm sure there more than enough pressure and my temps are decent. The 2 wasted outputs will later be used for a GPU and NB cooling but since my good graphics card isn't going in there til I know the cooling is solid I put in a freebee GF2. This MB doesn't have NB moutning holes so no NB cooling either.

I have the Johnson pump in there. I have rubber gromets on the mount but its still really loud. If anyone has suggestions about silencing this I'd liek to hear them.

Far right is the HDD cooler. For less than 20 it keeps the drives at 30C about 3C over room temp(27C). Just for comparison they used to run at nearly 40C.

I took the pics before I wired it up, As to not polute the forums with unsleeved wires. I'm not going to sleeve them as the hardware will be replaced in about a week once I'm sure the cooling won't leak.


Again thanks for the help.

[airspirit]

The zipties idea is ingenious. I was more of a duct tape of frame believer before (like the wood frame listed above). That's pretty neat.

Just a hint: never use a used or damaged heatercore ... the risk of leaks near your parts aren't worth the $30 or whateverthahell the cost of a new core is.

[bigben2k]

Thanks.

I'll also be using insulation tape, to seal the airflow, and isolate the core from case vibrations: I hate rattles!

I had to cut ~1/4 into the crossbar of my case, to allow the core's bottom tanks to sit lower. Now the finned area fits exactly within the size of the back opening (~6" by ~8"). I should have pics sometime next week.

If I had more time/patience/tools, I would have trimmed that opening, so that the core sits ~1/4" outside the back of the case. I need more space for the blower, but not that much space! BTW the heatercore isn't perfectly square...

Now I have to figure out the exact shape of that fiberglass shroud

[sevisehda]

The damaged core is...(goes and finds it)...sitting on my bed. I have to use for it so if someone wants it or recomends a fun way of 'putting it out of its misery' tell me. Its wired up and has been ruuning for about 12 hours without a leak. Although the coolant did drop about 2 inches(3/4 in PVC) but there are now 0 bubbles in the system.



The case was chieftec scorpio. I rotated the PS 90 degrees to recover the extra room above it. Why would they put the PS 1.5inches from the top of the case is beyond me. The hole in the PS used to align with the CPU/HS of its former system. I wanted casters to help move this beast around since it weighs 30lbs stock. I liked the outriggers it used to have though so I just stuck the casters on them. I also removed the cross bar to make accessing the case easier.

The cableing is an atrocity to man, considering the Hardware will be replaced nex week I'm not going to spend my time on it now. I'll also have to make a shroud of some kind.

Before I do, If I seal the case except for the rad entrance. Then use 3 80mms + 1 or 2 120mms all for exaust will air just have to go passively through the rad? Or should I really place a fan directly onto the radiator?

Again thanks for the help couldn't of doen it without ya.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by sevisehda
The damaged core is...(goes and finds it)...sitting on my bed. I have to use for it so if someone wants it or recomends a fun way of 'putting it out of its misery' tell me.



Before I do, If I seal the case except for the rad entrance. Then use 3 80mms + 1 or 2 120mms all for exaust will air just have to go passively through the rad? Or should I really place a fan directly onto the radiator?

I'll take it off your hands: maybe I can refurb it, and PIF (pass it forward) it to someone else. (I can paypal you the shipping).

Overall, you ought to opt for a positive air pressure in the case, unless you enjoy getting dust bunnies out of your case on a regular basis. You'd have to gauge the fans carefully here: the 3 * 80mm should out-power the 2 * 120, so use the 80's to force air in, and the 120's to let air out (or whatever combination you see fit).


edit: you might look into mounting that pump "heads down", aka motor up, if you can manage it. It might make some things simpler. In fact, if you could do that, you could manage to add a 3/4 tee at the pump inlet, so that you can have a drain plug at the bottom of your case (drill a hole). All you need is a threaded 3/4" tee (the grey schedule 80 stuff at Lowe's or Home Depot), two 3/4" barbs (the grey polypropylene stuff from Home Depot), and a white (schedule 40) or grey (schedule 80) 3/4" drain plug.

[sevisehda]

Yellow outline is 3/4 inch flexable, red solid is 3/8 flexable, red w/ yellow outline is 3/4 inch solid. Orange is stuff that going. I relocated and shortened the stack. It now connects to the fill via 3/4 inch tubing(also indicates water level better than solid). The pump is verticle with a T and valve for bleed.

I didn't originally go verticle because I was afraid of limiting the pumps intake and reducing flow. Ben2K if you PM me I'll be more than willing to send you the core. If anyone else has some ideas for routing feel free to paintshop up an image, if you need hosting send it to theryan@twcny.rr.com and I'll host it. Thanks again for the help.

[bigben2k]

Yeah, but I was thinking about having that pump sit about 6 inches higher, to straighten up the tube leading to the inlet (to optimize the flow leading to the pump). Otherwise, that's exactly right.

BTW, that bottom portion, sticking out of the case (which is right), only needs a screw in plug, not a valve (if that's what the yellow "X" is). I thought about using a valve, but they're just too big to make something nice.

Otherwise, I really like your idea of having a central manifold, but you'll have to do something about that duct tape job

[airspirit]

Bad suggestion, Ben. You will always run cooler with negative air pressure. Read the article on it on the front page of Pro/Cooling. Dust bunnies are something that can be lived with, particularly if you use air filters to keep it to a minimum.

Positive air pressure will not prevent dust bunnies, btw. That is a myth. You just won't get them in your speaker jacks.

Okay ... carry on.

[bigben2k]

Actually, it's a myth that it improves cooling, and I never said that

http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...g__-_phaes.php

The bottom line is that it doesn't improve cooling, that specs calls for negative pressure, but that regardless, proper ducting is what's really relevant. Otherwise a good read, especially about that Plextor fan.

Personally, I prefer to have positive pressure, but my priority is still proper ducting, as applicable.

[sevisehda]

The duct tape is the last line fo defense so to speak. I couldn't find anything that would connect PVC to Vinyl and still be flexable. There is about a 3/32 gap between the PVC and vinyl. So I made a compression fitting so the vinyl is forced ******d into the PVC. That should be enough but for added measure I put some silcone caulk in the rest of the gap. The duct tape is the last line of defense and also to hide the white caulk.

I really need to find a way to tap NPT fittings. I haven't been able to find a local store that sells them.

I normally run pos pressure to avoid dust bunnys. My theoretical reason is increased pressure normally means higher density so higher density air means better cooling.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by sevisehda
I really need to find a way to tap NPT fittings. I haven't been able to find a local store that sells them.


I normally run pos pressure to avoid dust bunnys. My theoretical reason is increased pressure normally means higher density so higher density air means better cooling.

Actually, you don't have to make taps: you can simply buy pipe-to-thread adapters: even Lowe's carries that! Then you can screw in your polypropylene barb.


Positive pressure makes sense that way, but the problem is that it couldn't possibly be significant to actually make a measurable difference. I don't think that a denser gas (CO2) would even make a measurable difference, but then I've never tried it (someone else?)

[ItsSoLARGE]

Since you need some type of router... why not buy a dedicated one? You can get the ones with built in switch for free after rebate most of the time

[sevisehda]

Since you need some type of router... why not buy a dedicated one? You can get the ones with built in switch for free after rebate most of the time

?

Not sure where he saw that I needed a router unless he noticed I had 2 NICs. I have a switch and like it better. At home I can run the Cable into 1 comp then feed it into the switch for my other comps. At school I can hook it right to the wall and get 5 different IPs.