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Hardware and Case Mod's You Paint it, Cut it, Solder it, bend it, light it up, make it glow or anything like that, here is your forum.

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Unread 09-03-2003, 04:15 PM   #1
g.l.amour
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Default new case coming, modding brainstorm (YY 0021)

all right;

i'm gonna try going for the same cooling power i have right now, but in a more compact case. the bulky server case got to go, lan's are a no go with a case weighing in at 30kg everything installed.

it will be something like kev's black ice. big hc in the front motherboard compartment. and a smaller hc above the psu in the hdd department.

the problem with this case is that the front of mobo compartment has almost no airflow. so i was thinking to make a rectangle and fill it with an aluminum grille. the blue would be the cut-out.

1. the case, unmodded
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Unread 09-03-2003, 04:16 PM   #2
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2.
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Unread 09-03-2003, 04:16 PM   #3
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Unread 09-03-2003, 04:17 PM   #4
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Unread 09-03-2003, 04:17 PM   #5
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5.
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Unread 09-03-2003, 04:20 PM   #6
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i particularly like 5 , but that would have me remove the case lock and fill it up with polyester and then sand it to match the bezel, and repaint.

has anyone here used polyester or some other material to do something alike? can it be done so that looking at it from closeby doesn't reveal the diy factor?

when looking at rotor's ducts for his car, i'd say no prob, but i prolly need some cheering along to get me into that mess...

cheers
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Unread 09-04-2003, 04:56 PM   #7
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Hi m8!

I like the case, and I would say go for a nr. 5, but try to do a semi circular cut around the edge of the key lock to keep it...

Congrat's on the choice of the new case!

Btw, how heavy is your old case (empty)? If you consider selling it...

Cheers!

PS: check PM's
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Unread 09-05-2003, 07:13 AM   #8
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i couldn't even try to guess, the water in all the tubing, rads and res must weigh quite a bit too. the steel of the outercase is the thickest i have ever seen on a case, and the dimension are quite large also (about WxHxD 380x560x560) you could have it for all i care, but i think transport cost would be enormous.

edit, found the exact dimension, they are WxHxD 370x480x580
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Unread 09-05-2003, 10:11 AM   #9
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g.l.amour,

Man, that new case does look nice. I'd vote for version #2 myself, would look sharp as can be.

I've never been to a lan, so I don't really know all the problems with going to one. But from what I've read, smaller and lighter cases are prefered. This new case of yours should be a good deal lighter.

And that old case is HUGE. And while the thing will as you say cost a lot to ship it's also a case with a great deal of potential.

And your offering it to Puzzdre for only shipping is very generous. Way to be man!

Puzzdre,

While the shipping will be more, at least in the US, than many low cost cases, look at how much more that steel case offers in options for you to use. I'd say it's worth the cost for shipping it and then some, if the shipping over there is comparable to the US.

The rig I'm slllooowwwwllllllyyyy buying for will be to large and bulky, I think, for lans. But lots of room to work in and place things.
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Unread 09-05-2003, 10:56 AM   #10
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I've got a yy-cube, and there is cooling (inadequate though it might be) at the front as long as you use the casters that come with the case. If you're ot planning on using the casters, you will most definitely need to create an opening on the case front panel.

However, the lock will have to be considered if you go with #5.
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Unread 09-05-2003, 11:35 AM   #11
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this is what I did for my YY cube, just took a round duct for a 92mm fan and installed it in the front panel and I put a 92mm fan on the top of the case for an exaust fan, was more than enough airflow back when that system was air cooled and that system is a dual processor machine, now that it's water cooled it's only about 70F inside the MB compartment.
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Unread 09-05-2003, 01:22 PM   #12
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thx for all the input ppl;

@jsimmons; the rad i'd like to put in front (if dimensions allow it), is like 5/3 the size of the dtek HC so that little crevice at the bottom wouldn't quite cut it, i should think.

@BE; go the way you think you need to go but realize this, it is hard to think upfront how you want your cooling to be, do u want a non-oc quiet system, a super oc loud, or a super oc/silent. the first two you can install in a smallish full tower, the last (which i happen to love the most, but loves dual rad setups) needs a cube, that is almost a conditio sine qua non. if you say portability is not important, you can go for the lian - coolermaster - yy big server. that should make you very happy. i'd like to try the most compact/performant casemod in my short history. i will try to make it so that it can be turned upside down without leaking.

@shiltz; your solution has crossed my mind, but if the front bezel would have been without a curve that would have been a no-brainer. ofcourse i haven't seen it from closeby but as i read kev's black ice, his front mod looks the slightest bit ghetto, and i've had enough ghetto cases for a whole life to fill. so mano a mano, what do you think, if u could pick between a perfectly executed grille mod of duct mod, which would you pick? which would suit the wavy front best?

my inspiration for the grille mod comes from this chap, this should be graduate modding school knowledge if u ain't seen it already. this page is about the grille specifically, but the entire article is quite inspiring, chk this guy's paint finish, its very impressive:
http://www.neima.com/en7237mod10.shtml
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Unread 09-05-2003, 01:45 PM   #13
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I have used a round duct on my machine and it turned out good.
pictures here
I used a In-Win Q-500 case for the base.

also where do you plan to place your heater core?
i was looking at using the cube as my next case but decided to go with Addtronics W8600. It gave me a lot of play area and I like the style.

when i was considering using the cube as a case i was going to move the powersupply to the top, put the heater core below it to exaust out the back.
then build a duct from the side for an intake to go to the heater core.

my $0.02 worth
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Unread 09-05-2003, 02:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by g.l.amour
thx for all the input ppl;

@jsimmons; the rad i'd like to put in front (if dimensions allow it), is like 5/3 the size of the dtek HC so that little crevice at the bottom wouldn't quite cut it, i should think.

I did this for my radiator:

http://www.paddedwall.org/watercool/wc_page4.html

Unfortunately, I have not yet finished this little project because I cut the back of my wrist with a miter saw (cutting baseboard for a friend) and severed all the tendons for my fingers 9 weeks ago, and I'm still recuperating from that.
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Unread 09-05-2003, 02:12 PM   #15
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well the small cube doesn't have the fscked up psu placement, so the standard HC should fit above the psu nicely. the big ass HC i want to place on the left of the front bezel. quite exactly like my old case, or kev's blackice project.

btw, i never said the ducting isn't an elegant option, your case looks top MadHacker, but u have a perfectly flat front bezel. the 0221 doesn't, and i can't imagine otherwise than the look being a little bit ghetto if i try the same thing.

if this rad can be mounted up front, that would be an achievement, no additional comment necessary if i say i need some extra airflow in front... ;-)
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Unread 09-05-2003, 02:18 PM   #16
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btw jsimmons, browsed your worklog/review, congrats on the ducting of the rad, looks really clean.

edit, get well soon bud
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Unread 09-05-2003, 02:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by g.l.amour
btw, i never said the ducting isn't an elegant option, your case looks top MadHacker, but u have a perfectly flat front bezel. the 0221 doesn't, and i can't imagine otherwise than the look being a little bit ghetto if i try the same thing.
originaly when i bought the ducts they were 6" deep and very stiff. but when you trim them down to 2/8" deep they are a lot more flexible.

my front bezel isn't perfectly flat. it is rounded.. and with the duct in place(unglued) there was a gap about 1/4" on each side.
using epoxy glue i was able to bend the ducts a litle bit and used the epoxy to fill in all of the gaps.
if you plan to paint your front bezel then filling in any gaps with epoxy will take it from ghetto to leet IMHO
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Unread 09-05-2003, 02:59 PM   #18
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well, first of all, congrats on your mod, and the paintjob, looks really sharp.

in my case, i'll have to review the pros and cons when i got the case in front of me, if u say that gap was 1/4, that should give me the option to do it your style at least.
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Unread 09-07-2003, 09:44 AM   #19
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I've got to say I've been learning the hard way about installing/routing a water cooling system.

Iwaki pump, 2-342 rad, and large 3/4L res make for a lot of space used. Even in a PC 76 which I thought could hold anything with room to spare. Fact is that Lian Li could hold it all, but I don't care for the compromises and modding it would need to do it.

So I'm going to now build a secondary case to mount the PC-76 on top of. It will hold the pump, rad with quad fans, res. Will leave the case interior a lot more open, so air flow should be great. And a lot fewer case fans this way. Should make for a much quieter, and cooler solution.

Just going to be a damned tall solution @ around 3 ft. +. And I'd already ordered a couple things I would have needed for the original plan before I changed my mind, and of course I don't need them now.

Live and learn.

edit: I also note I errored in the first post above. I should have posted #3 for which mod I like best, not #2. Should look really good while saving a strip of metal for the lock and added stiffening for the door.

One thing is sure, should be a really nice set up, which ever way you go. If you do decide to remove the lock and then reinstall it, could you takes some pics of that? One reason I'd go with #3 is I'd be rather nervous about me doing that much rebuilding of a expensive case. Would like to see how it's done, I cant' visualize it in my mind.

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Unread 09-07-2003, 10:40 AM   #20
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well black eagle, i can understand the trouble you are going through. the perfect case for watercooling should be very deep (so you got the option to mount a rad+duct in the front bezel under the drives; is the best solution in my eyes) more than it needs to be high. all the cdrom drive bays are a waste of space, who ever uses more than 2 cdroms and 1 digidoc (or something like that). the problem with a 'mono-volume' case is the pump mount. ideally you would like the pump somewhere it can be easily mounted with a res, that makes the floor the best place, only then you would be screwing to un/install pci/agp cards. if your name is turbokeu, anything is possible, but for the less handymen...

you go the way you want to go, but personally i think you will regret the ghetto workaround in the long run (i know i did) the performance is great, the silence too, but in the end, a nicely tucked away cooling system has its benefits too (i'll try dig up a pic of my first case somewhere).

mod nr 5 is what i would really like to do, its not my intention to keep the lock. i've been trying to get some info, polyester or epoxy are a bit dangerous, maybe some sort of non deformable silicone paste might do the trick. so drill the lock out, fill the gap with some sort of gunk, sand out the irregularities; and repaint the whole lot. i will have to kick myself in the nuts not to rush that job, knowing yourself is half the trick i'd say ;-)

btw, if u want all the room and ease of use you would need for all the cooling power, u might consider this case; this guy overdid it, but mighty mod nonetheless.
http://www.casejunkies.com/index.php...1182&page=1605
http://www.casejunkies.com/index.php...1182&page=1690

this was my first H2O project, cooled very good, but it hurt on the eyes.
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