Wb Designs

the_chad · 11-22-2003, 03:17 AM

hi guys and girls

well this is my first session on the pro cooling forums.

Anyway i recently found out that one of my firends has access to a cnc mill. He told me if i had a design in cad he could make it.

I was wondering does anyone have a cad design they dont mind letting me have.

Its for personal use only so dont be worried that im going to sell your design, its purely for experimental purposes only

thanks in advance

the_chad

btw. im after an amd design, might be for a pelt later, but i dont mind if the design is a maze,jet or pin design etc.

thanks again

i have copper stock that is 50mm(width)x 12mm (thick)x what ever length you suggest

the_chad · 11-29-2003, 04:58 PM

anyone, anyone at all?

tex707 · 11-29-2003, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by the_chad
anyone, anyone at all?

Maybe I could help you...have a few CAD waterblocks....maybe I could do a few more....maybe an APT file too....just let me know.

killernoodle · 11-29-2003, 05:05 PM

Designing yourself is half the fun! Send us some designs you think might work so we can tweak them a little for ya. We like originality

the_chad · 11-30-2003, 12:30 AM

Im thinking something like this

joemac · 11-30-2003, 02:21 AM

Hmmm? A maze style block. Before you have one made decide what type of CPU it will be used on and what temps you are trying to achieve. Think if you might try cooling with a Pelt or without. Basically plan what you will use it for and what you are trying to achieve. That’s cool

that you have a friend that will give you access to a CNC.

the_chad · 11-30-2003, 02:50 AM

thanks for your advie guys.

I'm after an socket A design, i have a barton 2500 atm but it might be used on a duron later (for a friend).

I would like to achieve good temps but obviously i wont be able to achieve results like the cascade or direct die options. I just want decent performance as it is a experiment atm. I already have a jaron commercial block (in aus, from below-0).

I just want to build another cheap setup and seeing i got the copper for dirt cheap (metal scrap, $8 aus, enough for 5 blocks or so) i though why not give it a go. I asked one of my friends that works with metal if they had a CNC mill at work and he said yeah, plus he can use it for free.

tex707 · 11-30-2003, 03:56 AM

It is hard to make a channel of the type you have in mind wide enough not to restrict the flow too much. Here is a simpple design, easy to be machined. Let's hear what more experienced people than me have to say...

tex707 · 11-30-2003, 03:58 AM

Sorry...I've forgooten to attach the screenshot...

the_chad · 11-30-2003, 04:39 AM

would it be possible to machine that design from a 50mmx50mm piece of copper?, could i have a copper top soldered on instead of thge perspex/plexiglass top?

also could you use a perspex mounting plate?

how's the performance on soemthing like this?

btw tex707 thank you verymuch for your continued inspiration, you truly are a master of CAD

tex707 · 11-30-2003, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by the_chad
would it be possible to machine that design from a 50mmx50mm piece of copper?, could i have a copper top soldered on instead of thge perspex/plexiglass top?

also could you use a perspex mounting plate?

how's the performance on soemthing like this?

btw tex707 thank you verymuch for your continued inspiration, you truly are a master of CAD

It would be very hard to machine this out of 50x50mm stock...however, 50x80 would do fine and I understand that you have this dimension at your disposal.

You can solder a copper top but I think that plexi looks better...

Could you, please, give some more details on what you mean by "perspex mounting plate"?

This design that I have attached now should work fair, maybe even good...probably better than Danger Dan Maze 3.

Zymrgy · 11-30-2003, 09:31 PM

your last revision looks good...but from a manufacturing standpoint it is tough...not that it can't be done. what are you planning for the height of your hex shaped pins and what is the distance between each pin? You got to make sure you have enough room for a reasonable sized endmill to fit through...and all of this is porportional to the height of the pins.

Your previous design with the holes in the bottom of the channel is 100% easier to make...and will take much less time and tooling.

the_chad · 12-01-2003, 12:26 AM

tex i like your designs but i like your first one because it should be easy to machine.

Could your possibly send me the cad file of the 1st block in 50mmx80mm dimensions please

Quote:

Could you, please, give some more details on what you mean by "perspex mounting plate"?

something like this is what i meant
http://www.overclockers.com/tips793/index02.asp

also would these designs work?

the_chad · 12-01-2003, 12:26 AM

and this one

tex707 · 12-01-2003, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Zymrgy
your last revision looks good...but from a manufacturing standpoint it is tough...not that it can't be done. what are you planning for the height of your hex shaped pins and what is the distance between each pin? You got to make sure you have enough room for a reasonable sized endmill to fit through...and all of this is porportional to the height of the pins.

Your previous design with the holes in the bottom of the channel is 100% easier to make...and will take much less time and tooling.

You're absolutely right...it is tough to be machined. I've posted this as a "dream" design. However, the manufacturing is possible considering that there are proper endmills available...the height of hex shaped pins is supposed to be 5mm an the channel depth 7 mm. The minimal distance between the pins is more than 1mm, meaning one needs 1mm diameter endmill to do the job. I have no proper tool database at my disposal, but if there are such endmills as I have anticipated ( please see the attachment), the machining is possible since the simulation has finished OK...I haven't determined the toolpaths for the O-ring channel and other details, but that can be done for sure.

tex707 · 12-01-2003, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by the_chad
tex i like your designs but i like your first one because it should be easy to machine.
Could your possibly send me the cad file of the 1st block in 50mmx80mm dimensions please
something like this is what i meant
http://www.overclockers.com/tips793/index02.asp
also would these designs work?

I will send you all the designs that are useful...just send your e-mail address as a PM…let’s not bother the other people here any more.

If you have access to a good CNC machine, maybe you should try both designs. I can send you the APT file determining a toolpath...I'm really not sure whether you will be able to make any use of it, but we could give it a try.

I've seen the article you are referring to...it's one of my old articles..

...yes, the mounting plate is a good choice, but for flat cross-drilled W/Bs as shown. When you have a W/B of a type we are talking about now, with four holes and four mounting springs, all you need is an acrylic backplate with a little piece of rubber pad between it an a motherboard back, just to take load off the motherboard PC.

tex707 · 12-01-2003, 04:51 AM

Here is a screenshot showing how should the whole assembly look like....

tex707 · 12-01-2003, 08:25 AM

Here's a simpler design...2mm diameter/depth holes instead of hex shaped pins...

tex707 · 12-01-2003, 06:46 PM

Here is the whole machining process in 8 screenshots...the simulation worked fine....

jaydee · 12-01-2003, 08:32 PM

Wish my mill worked like that! Also there is absolutely no reason to have that channel. Just leave it all open.

jaydee · 12-01-2003, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tex707
You're absolutely right...it is tough to be machined. I've posted this as a "dream" design. However, the manufacturing is possible considering that there are proper endmills available...the height of hex shaped pins is supposed to be 5mm an the channel depth 7 mm. The minimal distance between the pins is more than 1mm, meaning one needs 1mm diameter endmill to do the job. I have no proper tool database at my disposal, but if there are such endmills as I have anticipated ( please see the attachment), the machining is possible since the simulation has finished OK...I haven't determined the toolpaths for the O-ring channel and other details, but that can be done for sure.

Maybe a $500,000 Haas mill and a special made endmill, I am unaware of a endmill 1mm that will go 7mm deep into copper. Problem with these hard to make blocks is they will cost you $500+ to get made.

Zymrgy · 12-01-2003, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tex707
the machining is possible since the simulation has finished OK...

ya think??? There is a world of difference between simulation and actual machining. I can easily simulate a 1mm cutter plunging 50mm deep...and things will look fine. There might be some 1mm cutters that will go as deep as what you want, but actually using them would be a nightmare....even on a CNC with a 20,000 RPM spindle. one good rule of thumb is if your endmill length is greater than 4X the diameter then you better have alot of time and tools.

$500,000 for a Haas??? Not even a new 5 axis off the showroom floor would be that much...One machine that I would love to have in my garage is a Haas mini-mill...full 3 axis with 10 station toolchanger for $30,000

JFettig · 12-01-2003, 10:48 PM

Tex, one big problem I see with your designs is the barb placement, I would like to see you put some 1/8" wall tubing over those. Just put them right down the center far apart. pretty simple.

I have a mini-mill..... too bad its not the haas mini-mill

Jon

jaydee · 12-01-2003, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Zymrgy

$500,000 for a Haas??? Not even a new 5 axis off the showroom floor would be that much...One machine that I would love to have in my garage is a Haas mini-mill...full 3 axis with 10 station toolchanger for $30,000

I was talking about something that could do that block. That little $30k mill only has a 6,000RPM spindle. http://www.haascnc.com/products/defa...id=39&tstr=VMC

Hell their $600,000 machine is only 15,000RPM! I doubt it would do it either.
http://www.haascnc.com/products/defa...id=41&tstr=VMC

Price list: http://www.haascnc.com/products/vmc/prcAll.asp

I am sure you could special order a faster one though.

tex707 · 12-02-2003, 02:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jaydee116
Wish my mill worked like that! Also there is absolutely no reason to have that channel. Just leave it all open.

You're right...but the_chad asked for a design with a channel...that's why it's still there...

11-22-2003, 03:17 AM	#1
the_chad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: AUS-NSW Posts: 16	Wb Designs hi guys and girls well this is my first session on the pro cooling forums. Anyway i recently found out that one of my firends has access to a cnc mill. He told me if i had a design in cad he could make it. I was wondering does anyone have a cad design they dont mind letting me have. Its for personal use only so dont be worried that im going to sell your design, its purely for experimental purposes only thanks in advance the_chad btw. im after an amd design, might be for a pelt later, but i dont mind if the design is a maze,jet or pin design etc. thanks again i have copper stock that is 50mm(width)x 12mm (thick)x what ever length you suggest __________________ My Name Isn't Bob Last edited by the_chad; 11-22-2003 at 03:22 AM.

11-29-2003, 04:58 PM	#2
the_chad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: AUS-NSW Posts: 16	anyone, anyone at all? __________________ My Name Isn't Bob

11-29-2003, 05:05 PM	#4
killernoodle Thermophile Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,014	Designing yourself is half the fun! Send us some designs you think might work so we can tweak them a little for ya. We like originality __________________ I have a nice computer.

11-30-2003, 02:21 AM	#6
joemac Cooling Savant Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas Posts: 339	Hmmm? A maze style block. Before you have one made decide what type of CPU it will be used on and what temps you are trying to achieve. Think if you might try cooling with a Pelt or without. Basically plan what you will use it for and what you are trying to achieve. That’s cool that you have a friend that will give you access to a CNC. __________________ www.aquajoe.com

11-30-2003, 02:50 AM	#7
the_chad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: AUS-NSW Posts: 16	thanks for your advie guys. I'm after an socket A design, i have a barton 2500 atm but it might be used on a duron later (for a friend). I would like to achieve good temps but obviously i wont be able to achieve results like the cascade or direct die options. I just want decent performance as it is a experiment atm. I already have a jaron commercial block (in aus, from below-0). I just want to build another cheap setup and seeing i got the copper for dirt cheap (metal scrap, $8 aus, enough for 5 blocks or so) i though why not give it a go. I asked one of my friends that works with metal if they had a CNC mill at work and he said yeah, plus he can use it for free. __________________ My Name Isn't Bob

11-30-2003, 03:56 AM	#8
tex707 Cooling Savant Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Europe Posts: 164	It is hard to make a channel of the type you have in mind wide enough not to restrict the flow too much. Here is a simpple design, easy to be machined. Let's hear what more experienced people than me have to say...

11-30-2003, 04:39 AM	#10
the_chad Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: AUS-NSW Posts: 16	would it be possible to machine that design from a 50mmx50mm piece of copper?, could i have a copper top soldered on instead of thge perspex/plexiglass top? also could you use a perspex mounting plate? how's the performance on soemthing like this? btw tex707 thank you verymuch for your continued inspiration, you truly are a master of CAD __________________ My Name Isn't Bob

11-30-2003, 09:31 PM	#12
Zymrgy Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: USA Posts: 96	your last revision looks good...but from a manufacturing standpoint it is tough...not that it can't be done. what are you planning for the height of your hex shaped pins and what is the distance between each pin? You got to make sure you have enough room for a reasonable sized endmill to fit through...and all of this is porportional to the height of the pins. Your previous design with the holes in the bottom of the channel is 100% easier to make...and will take much less time and tooling.

12-01-2003, 08:32 PM	#20
jaydee Put up or Shut Up Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 6,506	Wish my mill worked like that! Also there is absolutely no reason to have that channel. Just leave it all open.

12-01-2003, 10:48 PM	#23
JFettig Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND Posts: 504	Tex, one big problem I see with your designs is the barb placement, I would like to see you put some 1/8" wall tubing over those. Just put them right down the center far apart. pretty simple. I have a mini-mill..... too bad its not the haas mini-mill Jon

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