Watercooling setup in a V1100 - suggestions?

[Risky]

Just wondering if you would want to invert the PA160 and mount the fan externally below the case (I can't judge if those rather small wheels offer enough clearance, buy you could use bigger castors).

[Cyprio]

Originally Posted by Risky

Just wondering if you would want to invert the PA160 and mount the fan externally below the case (I can't judge if those rather small wheels offer enough clearance, buy you could use bigger castors).

I considered that but id rather have it pulling cold air up through the rad.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I like the notion of having fans in the sides pulling air out but i really dont want to chop up this lovely case's exterior (Well, maybe to add a small window! ). I think i will mount it as it is, cutting a large hole above the fan, in the divider, so that air can be pulled up towards the drive bays (where i will mount the pump also). Then the air will be drawn out via the rear 120mm fan. Nice and simple and still keeping the shroud.

It makes the loop much easier too. I have turned the output to the side on the pump so i can have the T-peice there and then it goes striaght down to the rad and up from the front through the hole for the power cables and up to the water block. Then over to the GFX and back to the pump.

Now all i need to do is wait for the mobo that i want to come out - either a new Crossfire one or the 939/AGP that DFI will have out in a week or so.

[mad mikee]

Originally Posted by Marci

Try ordering from one of the UK sites - should work out about the same price anyway afaik...

Finally Between you and Cathar (G5 -soon) and my Papst 150mm (5v/ 100cfm and QUIET)
Present system w/ BIX + Panaflo M + cascade and stuff = 32-33 under load w/ x800xl in loop. I wonder how far below ambient I can get w/ the new stuff (J/K).

For some stuff of relevence to teh subject (since I've been through pretty much same senario
1. DON'T ATTACH PUMP TO CASE!! I got a big resonance effect that way (and mine is only an mcp350) Get a piece of sorbothane and /or a gel heel pad and put it on there.

2. Get tee so ID is at least same size as tube ID & if you can, one size larger. Heat gun and vaseline will make getting the tubing on easy, then pull it off after it cools and clean up, then clamp as usual. Place it after the GPU back to pump. Higher/more horizontal is better (air bleeds out faster).

3. Get one of these to place above your tee for easy filling w and short piece of tube attached above. Just stick funnel in & fill, then close and remove funnel

4. Coolsleeves are your friend when making the loop from CPU ->GPU etc.

[Cyprio]

Finally with that pesky PhD thesis out of the way i can concentrate on this rig!!!

Got round to cutting the hole today for the rad. About 20 Dremel cutting discs later the hole was complete - rough edges but as it wont show im thinking ill just put some electrician's tape over them and leave it at that.

A Hole (the white stuff is Tip-Ex that i used to mark it out):



Bottom of case with Rad held in place temporarily:



View from inside:



Next tasks:

1)Mount the rad
2) Cut hole above the shroud to allow ventialtion for the 120mm fan
3) Mount the pump.
4) Cut hole for DD Fill port
5) Finish the loop!

[mad mikee]

1. Get casters,etc., to raise case up xtra 1.5 - 3 inches.

2. Mount tabs under case to hold PA160 UNDER CASE (shroud comes up through hole)

3. Mount fan as expected, now that you've got space should work better. Casters raise case up enough for airflow.

[Cyprio]

Originally Posted by mad mikee

1. Get casters,etc., to raise case up xtra 1.5 - 3 inches.

2. Mount tabs under case to hold PA160 UNDER CASE (shroud comes up through hole)

3. Mount fan as expected, now that you've got space should work better. Casters raise case up enough for airflow.

Nice thoughts - it might be the perfect setup actually as their would be space to draw the air out the front as originally planned. However - they would have to be bloody huge wheels!

BTW - you rig specs are almost identical to what i am going to have in this case. Can i ask you if that gskill is BH-5 and if so what timings is it at? 2-2-2-5 @ 247? As i currently have a gig of Ballistix but am thinking to BH-5 for the DFI Ultra.

[unreal]

*look its a free vacuum cleaner* :P

Looks very nice, im jealous - but worried about dust...

[Cyprio]

Originally Posted by unreal

*look its a free vacuum cleaner* :P

Looks very nice, im jealous - but worried about dust...

Yeah ill be fitting a nice pair of tights to the rad.

[unreal]

Originally Posted by Cyprio

Yeah ill be fitting a nice pair of tights to the rad.

Like dressing a lady up

[Cyprio]

Any ideas on using Speaker grill cloth instead of tights?

[mad mikee]

Originally Posted by Cyprio

Nice thoughts - it might be the perfect setup actually as their would be space to draw the air out the front as originally planned. However - they would have to be bloody huge wheels!

BTW - you rig specs are almost identical to what i am going to have in this case. Can i ask you if that gskill is BH-5 and if so what timings is it at? 2-2-2-5 @ 247? As i currently have a gig of Ballistix but am thinking to BH-5 for the DFI Ultra.

I'm back to TCCD since voltage is easier (may switch back later ) Look into Ballistix 2x 1G, check @ xtremesystems.org - xtreme bandwidth, to see why and if you agree.

Just saw about filter material - do you have something like This? over there (6"x12" ) electrostatic and clean w/ vacuum nicely

[Cyprio]

Originally Posted by mad mikee

I'm back to TCCD since voltage is easier (may switch back later ) Look into Ballistix 2x 1G, check @ xtremesystems.org - xtreme bandwidth, to see why and if you agree.

Just saw about filter material - do you have something like This? over there (6"x12" ) electrostatic and clean w/ vacuum nicely

Done a lot of dremmel work today (so much that the motor died on me ) - will post pics tomorrow when the light is better.

I have just asked a m8 to buy me 4x512 BH-5 (Twinmos) actually as it was dead cheap at newegg. Should be nice running 3plus volts through it...

Not sure about that material - cant find it by Googling over here.

[Cyprio]

Update:

Cutting to make room for the rad's fan:



Cut finished and c-strip added to the egdes:



Testing the positioning of the rad and fan:



note: That will be a PAPST (AKASA one is going to replace a case fan )

Rad complete for installation:



I had some spare foam from the bottom of the rad so i added it around the shroud to make it airtight.

Added a bit of duck tape to the bottom to hide nasty rough edges:



This is how i placed the pump and routed the outlet straight down to the rad:



The pump and T-piece that is going to be connected to a DD fillport (awaiting more jubilee clips to finish this!). You can also see the rad outlet coming up.



And the two water blocks (that is a polarflo TT for the gfx) with heatshrink over the jubilee clips:



Question: How much of a difference will blowing out have than pulling air in? I am still worried about dust.

Thanks!

Next update tomorrow probably.

[mad mikee]

Blowing down (out) is 1. blowing warm air across rad. 2. fighting natural convective flow.

And you worried about dust in a case that is a magnet for such Little late now. (That is what a periodic vacuuming is for )

[Cyprio]

UPDATE:

Added the fillerport:


Got my CPU:



And the completed loop:



With everything at stock the CPU and GFX are at 30 degrees.

Now to tweak this baby.

[jwill]

excellent work Cyprio. could you post some more pics maybe zoomed out a bit and more of the finished rad area?

i have the same case and also wanted to install that rad.

[Cyprio]

Originally Posted by jwill

excellent work Cyprio. could you post some more pics maybe zoomed out a bit and more of the finished rad area?

i have the same case and also wanted to install that rad.

sure - on holiday atm. will do in 3 weeks when i get back.