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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 03-25-2003, 08:21 PM   #26
max
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No I have never had problems with leaky acrylic, all in all I love the stuff. Its easy to work with, quick and easy to drill (itd be hard to brake a drill on it, unlike copper), you can mill it on a drill press and best of all its quick to cut because man i hate hack sawing copper flatbar plus it looks cool

Actually on mark 2 (at the top) it warped about 0.5 mm when the barbs were a bit tight and it made it hard to get a good seal with the gaskit.

Well I have equalled the performance of my mark 2 block with the above design and today I am going to try one with 6mm copper with a 2mm base with drilled rotor type pins with the inlet right over and quite low on the centre. Kindof like jaydees micro pin block. I'll post the result later
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Unread 03-25-2003, 08:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by max
I am going to try one with 6mm copper with a 2mm base with drilled rotor type pins with the inlet right over and quite low on the centre. Kindof like jaydees micro pin block. I'll post the result later
Sounds good!
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Unread 03-25-2003, 09:31 PM   #28
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OK im using it now!, 32 idle 35load. about the same as my first one.
hmmmm, its still better than the others purely because it simple to make and light weight.

maybe i'll try thinner or thicker base? what do you lot think?

What base thinckness did you use jaydee?
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Unread 03-25-2003, 09:34 PM   #29
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BTW, dont compare temps between systems (ie my block with your block), just look at the differences
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Unread 03-25-2003, 09:43 PM   #30
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I started with 1/8" (.125) thick Copper bar. I went .030 deep into it with the channels. If I were to do it again I would mill the flat bar down about 1/32, make the pins, and then mill out around the pins to make the pins stand taller than the perimeter. Also if I added a nozzel and a bigger pump..... Look out WW. My block is far from optimal yet it does real good even with only a 170gph pump.
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Unread 03-25-2003, 10:00 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaydee116
I started with 1/8" (.125) thick Copper bar. I went .030 deep into it with the channels. If I were to do it again I would mill the flat bar down about 1/32, make the pins, and then mill out around the pins to make the pins stand taller than the perimeter. Also if I added a nozzel and a bigger pump..... Look out WW. My block is far from optimal yet it does real good even with only a 170gph pump.
sheesh, that thin, do you have any results to compare it to? eg a commercial block

I have nothing to compare mine to so i dont even know how good it is

all these imperial measurements LOL
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Unread 03-25-2003, 10:14 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by max
sheesh, that thin, do you have any results to compare it to? eg a commercial block

I have nothing to compare mine to so i dont even know how good it is

all these imperial measurements LOL
I said i will take 1/32 off the 1/8, not make the base 1/32 just for clarification. No, I have nothing to compare to, just similar systems with similar setting. I have always made my own blocks so I got non premade. But what I have seen from users my block is doing pretty good especially being I am running 200GPH less than most. But no, I have no credible information on the performance. Not yet anyway. But I am very confident in it.
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Unread 03-25-2003, 11:46 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaydee116
I said i will take 1/32 off the 1/8, not make the base 1/32 just for clarification. No, I have nothing to compare to, just similar systems with similar setting. I have always made my own blocks so I got non premade. But what I have seen from users my block is doing pretty good especially being I am running 200GPH less than most. But no, I have no credible information on the performance. Not yet anyway. But I am very confident in it.
I got confidence in you too Jaydee.
Keep up the good work
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Unread 03-26-2003, 12:01 AM   #34
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yes the force is strong with him
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Unread 03-27-2003, 03:37 AM   #35
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heres a pic of the last one i was talking about
Attached Images
File Type: jpg block.jpg (46.2 KB, 80 views)
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Unread 03-27-2003, 04:54 AM   #36
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hard to see the guts, performance ok?

what perplexes me sort of is how u managed to remove all the internal copper of that mazestyle block. drilling the holes is one thing, removing the excess Cu...

btw, u say that the looks are not good, to me a good executed drill press block is finer that anything a cnc can do. this is pure craftsmanship.
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Unread 03-28-2003, 03:08 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally posted by g.l.amour
hard to see the guts, performance ok?
Yeah performance OK, its not any different to all the others maybe I have hit a wall. It just occured to me maybe I should up the voltage to increase the heatload and maybe that will enable me to see some differences

Guts are basicall this http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=6176
I made mine before this thread though

Quote:
Originally posted by g.l.amour

what perplexes me sort of is how u managed to remove all the internal copper of that mazestyle block. drilling the holes is one thing, removing the excess Cu...
Well on that first block it prolly took about 2 hours with a hammer and a chisel but now my holes are so close and precise i can get the thin bits with a screw driver (which makes a rotor one) then just bend the pin back and forth then it neatly brakes off at the base, itd take maybe 20mins now

Quote:
Originally posted by g.l.amour

btw, u say that the looks are not good, to me a good executed drill press block is finer that anything a cnc can do. this is pure craftsmanship.
Hehe cool, I like them too
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