Sanitary question

[4M]Mustang · 07-09-2002, 09:42 AM

If I were to take distilled water that has been autoclaived which is that the water will have been heated up to a very high degreese to kill all the bacteria and if the Tygon tubing would be done also would I be safe to run a watercooling setup without Watter wetter cause I really wanna avoid using it. any feedback is much obliged.

bigben2k · 07-09-2002, 10:02 AM

Water wetter has multiple purposes.

1-reduce the surface tension, so that the water makes better contact with the walls of the block.

2-helps prevent galvanic corrosion, a phenomenon by which 2 different metals are in electrical contact to each other, typically with water.

3-helps prevent bacterial growth.

So the first question that you want to ask yourself is: is it possible for my rig to experience galvanic corrosion? You have to look at all the metallic components that are in contact with the coolant, including the barbs. If you have Copper as well as Aluminium, then yes, you are in a situation where galvanic corrosion will occur. (If there's anything else, let us know, and we'll take a closer look.)

The surface tension reducer, also known as a surfactant, in commercially available soaps (like laundry detergent) can be substituted for many other things. I'll let everyone else suggest something, but I'll propose laundry detergent, even though I've never tried it.

The bacterial factor is one that's hard to measure, and even observe. It usually just creeps up on you. In short, there are bacterias in all forms of water, no matter what you do to it. Over time, these bacterias multiply, to a point where they start accumulating on the surfces of just about everything, and start altering the performance of the rig.

Some people believe that distilled water alone will cure the problem, when in fact, it only delays it. Some people have suggested alternatives like bleach, methyl blue, phosphoric acid, soap, alcohol, glycol, etc... While I'm not validating any of these, what's important to know is that anything added to the water will decrease the performance of the rig, so whatever is added, needs to be in a small quantity.

Personally, I am going to try windshield wiper fluid: a 1:2 or 1:1 mixture of water and methanol, and I plan to keep my rig all copper.

MeltMan · 07-09-2002, 11:56 AM

I run pure windshield washer fluid. It gave me slightly better temps (or maybe its in my head). Most importantly though, its subzero safe and its a nerve toxin (no bacteria growth). It is also slightly thinner than water and helps for flow without sacrificing thermal conductivity.

It does nothing, however, for corrosion.

I wish there were clear winshield wiper fluid too... you're kinda stuck with blue.

bigben2k · 07-09-2002, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MeltMan
I wish there were clear winshield wiper fluid too... you're kinda stuck with blue.

I wonder why... must research!

bigben2k · 07-09-2002, 12:42 PM

Well, I've been able to establish that methanol can be clear, which leaves the addition of blue dye as a standard safety measure, so that kids don't confuse it with water. This would be a federal regulation.

The research continues...

redleader · 07-09-2002, 12:48 PM

You can buy methanol from Walgreens. Its 70% though, so you'll need to do about 1:1 with water before you use it.

[4M]Mustang · 07-09-2002, 12:59 PM

well Ill link to that parts I will be using.

Waterblock: http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/18/125.htm?568

Radiater: http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/19/92.htm?568

then probally a homemade resivoir consisting of a round piece of 5 inch'ish PVC pipe with plexi glass on each side.

bigben2k · 07-09-2002, 01:40 PM

There's a blue version of Methanol, called Nile Blue, methanol.

Found this:
"You can make a relatively benign washer fluid yourself with one part alcohol (pure alcohol, not isopropyl) and ammonia mixture and two parts water."
here:
http://www.emagazine.com/march-april_1999/0399aske.html

(Not sure if it'd cool very well though)

Here's more info on the poison/treatment aspect:
http://hsc.virginia.edu/medicine/cli...s/toxicalc.htm

You'd believe that the blue color is COBALT (also toxic) if you read this:
http://seasilver.threadnet.com/Preventorium/toxic.htm

but I have not otherwise been able to find out why windshield wiper fluid is blue.

[4M]Mustang · 07-09-2002, 08:25 PM

*Bump* with that block and radiater am I gonna have corrosion?

bigben2k · 07-10-2002, 08:30 AM

You'll be OK with that combo.

[4M]Mustang · 07-10-2002, 11:05 AM

*lubs on Bigben* thx

07-09-2002, 09:42 AM	#1
[4M]Mustang Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO Posts: 8	Sanitary question If I were to take distilled water that has been autoclaived which is that the water will have been heated up to a very high degreese to kill all the bacteria and if the Tygon tubing would be done also would I be safe to run a watercooling setup without Watter wetter cause I really wanna avoid using it. any feedback is much obliged.

07-09-2002, 10:02 AM	#2
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Water wetter has multiple purposes. 1-reduce the surface tension, so that the water makes better contact with the walls of the block. 2-helps prevent galvanic corrosion, a phenomenon by which 2 different metals are in electrical contact to each other, typically with water. 3-helps prevent bacterial growth. So the first question that you want to ask yourself is: is it possible for my rig to experience galvanic corrosion? You have to look at all the metallic components that are in contact with the coolant, including the barbs. If you have Copper as well as Aluminium, then yes, you are in a situation where galvanic corrosion will occur. (If there's anything else, let us know, and we'll take a closer look.) The surface tension reducer, also known as a surfactant, in commercially available soaps (like laundry detergent) can be substituted for many other things. I'll let everyone else suggest something, but I'll propose laundry detergent, even though I've never tried it. The bacterial factor is one that's hard to measure, and even observe. It usually just creeps up on you. In short, there are bacterias in all forms of water, no matter what you do to it. Over time, these bacterias multiply, to a point where they start accumulating on the surfces of just about everything, and start altering the performance of the rig. Some people believe that distilled water alone will cure the problem, when in fact, it only delays it. Some people have suggested alternatives like bleach, methyl blue, phosphoric acid, soap, alcohol, glycol, etc... While I'm not validating any of these, what's important to know is that anything added to the water will decrease the performance of the rig, so whatever is added, needs to be in a small quantity. Personally, I am going to try windshield wiper fluid: a 1:2 or 1:1 mixture of water and methanol, and I plan to keep my rig all copper. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-09-2002, 11:56 AM	#3
MeltMan Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: KS Posts: 374	I run pure windshield washer fluid. It gave me slightly better temps (or maybe its in my head). Most importantly though, its subzero safe and its a nerve toxin (no bacteria growth). It is also slightly thinner than water and helps for flow without sacrificing thermal conductivity. It does nothing, however, for corrosion. I wish there were clear winshield wiper fluid too... you're kinda stuck with blue. __________________ MeltMan Lurker Supreme!

07-09-2002, 12:42 PM	#5
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Well, I've been able to establish that methanol can be clear, which leaves the addition of blue dye as a standard safety measure, so that kids don't confuse it with water. This would be a federal regulation. The research continues... __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-09-2002, 01:40 PM	#8
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	There's a blue version of Methanol, called Nile Blue, methanol. Found this: "You can make a relatively benign washer fluid yourself with one part alcohol (pure alcohol, not isopropyl) and ammonia mixture and two parts water." here: http://www.emagazine.com/march-april_1999/0399aske.html (Not sure if it'd cool very well though) Here's more info on the poison/treatment aspect: http://hsc.virginia.edu/medicine/cli...s/toxicalc.htm You'd believe that the blue color is COBALT (also toxic) if you read this: http://seasilver.threadnet.com/Preventorium/toxic.htm but I have not otherwise been able to find out why windshield wiper fluid is blue. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-09-2002, 12:48 PM	#6
redleader Thermophile Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: The deserts of Tucson, Az Posts: 1,264	You can buy methanol from Walgreens. Its 70% though, so you'll need to do about 1:1 with water before you use it.

07-09-2002, 12:59 PM	#7
[4M]Mustang Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO Posts: 8	well Ill link to that parts I will be using. Waterblock: http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/18/125.htm?568 Radiater: http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/19/92.htm?568 then probally a homemade resivoir consisting of a round piece of 5 inch'ish PVC pipe with plexi glass on each side.

07-09-2002, 08:25 PM	#9
[4M]Mustang Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO Posts: 8	Bump with that block and radiater am I gonna have corrosion?

07-10-2002, 08:30 AM	#10
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	You'll be OK with that combo. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-10-2002, 11:05 AM	#11
[4M]Mustang Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: MO Posts: 8	lubs on Bigben thx

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