It begins...

[pippin88]

Well finally got some micro channels going.

Here's my first go using the slitting saw:






That's with a 1mm thick slitting saw. I also have 1.5, 0.8 and 0.5mm thick saws (different diameters too).

Apart from the micro channels the milling in the block was from very early on, and Im certainly not proud of it. This is really just a test of the saws and im impressed.

A few slight issues to be sorted out with the arbor, and we need to make some arbors for the other size saws (They have varying hole sizes in the middle )

[RoboTech]

Cool...

What kind of mill are you using? (horizontal?) Do you have any pics of your setup? Thanks,

[Cathar]

Good stuff pippin88. This is exactly the sort of machining process I'm moving to for my GPU block. We'll be doing a few extra tricks though....

[Spamz0r]

Originally posted by Cathar
Good stuff pippin88. This is exactly the sort of machining process I'm moving to for my GPU block. We'll be doing a few extra tricks though....

lol sounds evil

i want a pic of the sitting saw

[pippin88]

Originally posted by Spamz0r
lol sounds evil

i want a pic of the sitting saw

I've got a few blurry pics of the saws themselves, but I'm going up to the shed to do some more and will get some pics of the saw in the mill etc.

Its a vertical mill with a home made arbor.

Cathar, you going to be using multiple saws? That's one thing I'm going to look at in the future, making an arbor that accomodates a few saws so its quicker and better spaced.

[Spamz0r]

without try to attack you or be a wanker, ive never seen such a messy job done with a mill in all my life, what happened !

sorry but i just had to say it :P

[pippin88]

Originally posted by Spamz0r
without try to attack you or be a wanker, ive never seen such a messy job done with a mill in all my life, what happened !

sorry but i just had to say it :P

As I said, im far from proud with the end bits, these were done very very early on in my milling experience (Late at night too).

I ****ed it up (Moved the vice around to much, only needed to turn it once to get the required angle on all bits yet did it 2 or 3 times) and thus abandoned it. But it's a good piece to practise on.

Oh and a large part of what you are seeing is shit and swarf that I hadn't cleaned out when the pics were taken.

[Spamz0r]

Originally posted by pippin88
As I said, im far from proud with the end bits, these were done very very early on in my milling experience (Late at night too).

I ****ed it up (Moved the vice around to much, only needed to turn it once to get the required angle on all bits yet did it 2 or 3 times) and thus abandoned it. But it's a good piece to practise on.

ahh

it happens to the best of us

so why cant you just put it back in, and mill out the rest ?

unless its already to close to the base...

[pippin88]

Originally posted by Spamz0r
ahh

it happens to the best of us

so why cant you just put it back in, and mill out the rest ?

unless its already to close to the base...

CBF, atm Im only using the drill chuck, and ccant be bothered changing back to the mill chuck for a little bit of work that will not be visible and will not affect performance.

In future blocks I'll take more care, but its not a priority right now.

[Spamz0r]

Originally posted by pippin88
CBF, atm Im only using the drill chuck, and ccant be bothered changing back to the mill chuck for a little bit of work that will not be visible and will not affect performance.

In future blocks I'll take more care, but its not a priority right now.

this gives me an idea (although i dont know if its related:P)

is it possible to put a mill bit in a drill press, get a clamp that can move horzontialy and vertically in accuracy with easy

and once you drill down to ur set depth u lock the press drill off

and start moving the vice v and h

would this be a good way to mill something ?

[Blackeagle]

Care would sure be needed with the depth or it would be a good way to bust bits.

[Spamz0r]

Originally posted by Blackeagle
Care would sure be needed with the depth or it would be a good way to bust bits.

when it comes to depth i have 2 methods (for normal drilling this would apply to milling as well)

1. some press drills have a mmguage of how far you are moving the drill down
2. every 3mm or so bring the drill out, stick a ruler down there and see what you can see on the ruler (u get the idea, if not its myy chinglish playing up again)

[pippin88]

Originally posted by Spamz0r
this gives me an idea (although i dont know if its related:P)

is it possible to put a mill bit in a drill press, get a clamp that can move horzontialy and vertically in accuracy with easy

and once you drill down to ur set depth u lock the press drill off

and start moving the vice v and h

would this be a good way to mill something ?

No, its far from good. Because Drill presses are not designed for sideways load and thus you screw the bearings very quickly.

It will also be time consuming and wont result in a particularly good product.

That said I have seen a few people that have done very good work with drill presses etc.

If you want a good performing block that's easy on a drill press, I suggest you do a #rotor block.

[Spamz0r]

Originally posted by pippin88
No, its far from good. Because Drill presses are not designed for sideways load and thus you screw the bearings very quickly.

It will also be time consuming and wont result in a particularly good product.

That said I have seen a few people that have done very good work with drill presses etc.

If you want a good performing block that's easy on a drill press, I suggest you do a #rotor block.

common you cant expect me to know what a #rotor block is can you ? :P

[pippin88]

Originally posted by Spamz0r
common you cant expect me to know what a #rotor block is can you ? :P

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...ighlight=rotor

[LiquidRulez]

Originally posted by pippin88
CBF, atm Im only using the drill chuck, and ccant be bothered changing back to the mill chuck for a little bit of work that will not be visible and will not affect performance.

In future blocks I'll take more care, but its not a priority right now.

How do you figure that those pits created with the end mill on the entry and exit wont effect performance?

Are you just too lazy to do it? What will it take?....... like 10 minutes to clean it up?

They will creat a significant flow restriction as apposed to a smooth transition from entry >through fins>exit.

So they will ,in fact, alter the blocks performance curve.

Why not do the BEST you can with what you got?

[Spamz0r]

i doubt that would effect flow that much, as the fin bas is higher than that of the area of question, the water flow isnt forced onto that area infact its forced away (if you have on barbd going in the middle and two barbs on the outside going out)

ifs its the other way around then you would want to smooth it out

[pippin88]

Originally posted by LiquidRulez
How do you figure that those pits created with the end mill on the entry and exit wont effect performance?

Are you just too lazy to do it? What will it take?....... like 10 minutes to clean it up?

They will creat a significant flow restriction as apposed to a smooth transition from entry >through fins>exit.

So they will ,in fact, alter the blocks performance curve.

Why not do the BEST you can with what you got?

Explain to me how a very small (.5 of mm or so) bump is going to affect flow on exits?

The flow restriction is already the inlet. As It's probably going to be a 3 barb block.

Also I don't see how it would affect flow much at all, other than creating a bit of turbulance, which has been concluded as being a good thing.

It will take considerably longer than 10mins to clean up, as I'd have to change collets etc, find the right depths etc. I don't have time when I have this and another block as well as a GPU block to do tomorrow.

This block was only ever intended as a test of the saw and arbor.

[Spamz0r]

Originally posted by pippin88
Explain to me how a very small (.5 of mm or so) bump is going to affect flow on exits?

The flow restriction is already the inlet. As It's probably going to be a 3 barb block.

Also I don't see how it would affect flow much at all, other than creating a bit of turbulance, which has been concluded as being a good thing.

It will take considerably longer than 10mins to clean up, as I'd have to change collets etc, find the right depths etc. I don't have time when I have this and another block as well as a GPU block to do tomorrow.

This block was only ever intended as a test of the saw and arbor.

so will you have pics then ?

[pippin88]

Originally posted by Spamz0r
so will you have pics then ?

Will see what I can do.

[Spamz0r]

Originally posted by pippin88
Will see what I can do.

yay !

[jaydee]

Looks good. Havn't quite figured out why you made the triangle shapes on the ends though? Looks like a spot to whirlpool warm water?

[pippin88]

Originally posted by jaydee116
Looks good. Havn't quite figured out why you made the triangle shapes on the ends though? Looks like a spot to whirlpool warm water?

Block was originally going to be a end to end pin block. That's the reason for the shape of the end bits. But I broke my small endmill at the time and never got further than milling the ends out till now.

[pippin88]

Slitting saws:









The pics are far from fabulous, but I havent had time to play around with this DIGI cam yet

[Spamz0r]

cool !

my dads got a drill press

how much and where from !

hmmm although at the end of my block it would start to cut more channels due to the diameter of the blade....

ill try and get a small (Diameter wise) is possible

i need a 1mm thin blade is that possible ?