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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 04-20-2003, 03:27 PM   #76
hara
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Drop the walls and ornaments. It's not a temple you're building
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Unread 04-20-2003, 03:44 PM   #77
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ok Rayman2k2, you still need to grasp one concept, do not add walls where not necessarily, there are only making it more difficulte for the water to flow. at least drop the wall where the water has to exit after entering from the inlet, i mean, the water enters, pases though the pins , and then drop that wall from where the water has to pass next. those 3 slits are not enough. to much restriction
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Unread 04-20-2003, 04:06 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
Drop the walls and ornaments. It's not a temple you're building

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Unread 04-20-2003, 04:06 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally posted by Balinju
ok Rayman2k2, you still need to grasp one concept, do not add walls where not necessarily, there are only making it more difficulte for the water to flow. at least drop the wall where the water has to exit after entering from the inlet, i mean, the water enters, pases though the pins , and then drop that wall from where the water has to pass next. those 3 slits are not enough. to much restriction

okay, i'll take that into consideration, new desing coming up!
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Unread 04-20-2003, 04:28 PM   #80
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I'm going to quote cathar. Hope that it helps:

Quote:
1) Define target pump pressure
2) Derive optimal orifice size as a balance of pump pressure, water velocity, and volumetic flow rate.
3) Define target die size. Heat load is basically unimportant. Assume 100W (real watts - not fake Radiate watts) as a peak
4) Determine what material you're going to make the waterblock out of.
5) Derive structural integrity constraints to cope with up to 50kg of pressure over a 1cm^2 area given the material you've chosen.
6) Machine the material in a way that maximises the water surface area within 2mm of each side of the CPU die (ie. for a 10x10mm die, target a 14x14mm area to maximise surface area over)
7) Using 2) above, derive a method to maximise the water turbulence over the die area specifically - this will be greatly affected by the design you've chosen in 6)
8) After 7), derive the maximum height required of the water-block material and the base-plate thickness. These two are linked more strongly that one would first imagine. Determine this for your 100W heat load. Target the fin/channel/block height at the 98% dissipation mark. Meaning that 98% of the heat is being dissipated below that height. Basically this defines an upper limit to the useful height of the block. As a hint, for copper/100W/water, if you're focussing on anything above 8mm, you're going in the wrong direction, unless you have pathetically low flow rates/pump pressure.

After you've defined 8), you'll then learn that this impacts on 7), and almost always on 2), so you'll need to reiterate the process to refine it, while will undoubtedly bring 6) back into the mix as well, while keeping a very close eye on 5).

Keep refining and reiterating those points and you'll asymptotically approach the limitations of the waterblock's efficiency with the design architecture and machining method you've chosen.
I'd like to stress the 6th point
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Unread 04-20-2003, 06:22 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara




I'd like to stress the 6th point
I have been following that in my blocks but with my own calculations and it is pretty close to that. But that is for AMD CPU's I belive. Intel is a little different. That heat/load spreader they put on there sucks as I have no clue how big the core is underneath it. Finding that out would be critical in the design.

I assume he is designing this for a P4 system as his avatar sports a P4 logo.
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Unread 04-20-2003, 06:54 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaydee116
I have been following that in my blocks but with my own calculations and it is pretty close to that. But that is for AMD CPU's I belive. Intel is a little different. That heat/load spreader they put on there sucks as I have no clue how big the core is underneath it. Finding that out would be critical in the design.

I assume he is designing this for a P4 system as his avatar sports a P4 logo.
P4 core is almost 12mm x 12mm

some core pics in my direct die thead here
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Unread 04-20-2003, 07:50 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally posted by hara
I'm going to quote cathar. Hope that it helps:



I'd like to stress the 6th point

thanx, i'll keep this in mind!!!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH.


LOL at Jaydee

thanx, volenti, that helps alot too!!!!!
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Unread 04-21-2003, 05:08 PM   #84
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What are you naming the block? did you completely abandon the original block concept?
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Unread 04-21-2003, 08:04 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally posted by winewood
What are you naming the block? did you completely abandon the original block concept?
not sure about the name


and yes i did
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Unread 04-23-2003, 09:23 PM   #86
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Okay, basically, there are the raised pyramids, then the pyramids that are milled into the base. The pyramid region is 16mmx16mm. Each pyramid is 2mmx2mm. This pic is just of the pyramid region. The rest of the block is just like morphling1's block, only this time it has the pyramid and the channel is a bit wider.
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Unread 04-23-2003, 10:01 PM   #87
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Any idea on how your going to make that?
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Unread 04-24-2003, 01:06 AM   #88
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imo, that's a much better design than all the others but i have to agree with jaydee, that's very difficult to mill. Any idea of how you are going to get around this??


to say something on the design, just one thing, are you sure that water will not get stagnant in those holes???
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Unread 04-24-2003, 06:20 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaydee116
Any idea on how your going to make that?

nope :shrug:
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Unread 04-24-2003, 06:20 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally posted by Balinju
to say something on the design, just one thing, are you sure that water will not get stagnant in those holes???

nope :shrug:
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Unread 04-24-2003, 06:45 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rayman2k2
nope :shrug:

you have to make sure, otherwise you could toast your cpu
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Unread 04-24-2003, 06:51 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaydee116
Any idea on how your going to make that?
I've just had a thought, could a design like that be punched or pressed into copper, it looks like a "punch" friendly design, course you'd still have to make the "negative" somehow, and borrow a 10 tonne press
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Unread 04-24-2003, 07:51 AM   #93
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Hmmm...

The channels could be cut with the right saw blade, but where to find it?:shrug:
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Unread 04-24-2003, 06:43 PM   #94
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finally when i make a good design, it cant be made.


Hey Jaydee, how did you make your pyramids?
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Unread 04-24-2003, 06:54 PM   #95
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http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=6306


7th pic down


is that a good endmill to use?
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Unread 04-24-2003, 09:20 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rayman2k2
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=6306


7th pic down


is that a good endmill to use?
Yeah it looks like one of the $50 ones though.
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Unread 04-25-2003, 07:14 PM   #97
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any insight? anyone?
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Unread 04-27-2003, 06:36 PM   #98
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*sigh* bump
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Unread 04-27-2003, 07:20 PM   #99
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What kind of input do you need again?
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Unread 04-27-2003, 09:29 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally posted by jaydee116
What kind of input do you need again?
how to make the block, bp thickness, critique...the normal stuph
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