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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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05-06-2003, 05:53 PM | #1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Utah
Posts: 11
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Finished my new WB!! (PICS)
I just finished my new water block and put it in my system last night. So far I'm pretty impressed. I had a Maze3 previous to this block. With my new waterblock I'm getting about 1-2 degrees cooler than with my Maze3!! So it might not be quite like a Cather WW...but not too bad for my first block ever!
I did this project with a friend and he made an exact replica of my block. He had a Koolance WB previous and he is getting about 5 degrees cooler with our new blocks! Here are some pics... The copper we started with. The two small, thinner pieces are for cold plates...(We're gonna TEC it up later this summer...) This is during the milling process...The block is coming to life... And here is the finished block... We decided to put a plexi top on so we could see our hard work... The block and top together... The finished product... And here it is nestled in my case...(I know the wires are a mess...I'll get to those in a few days) So what do you guys think? |
05-06-2003, 06:11 PM | #2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Malta, Mediterranean
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Nice block for use with a TEC!
Good job on the milling. What's that, CNC?
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05-06-2003, 06:13 PM | #3 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Utah
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yeah...i just used the one at the university i'm attending. only wish i had a $50,000 dollar machine....
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05-06-2003, 06:18 PM | #4 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Malta
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wow pretty impressive machining.
my $0.02 opinion, if i were you i would change the input and make it direcetly on the core, at the centre with 2 outputs, but if you do so, you'll need to doo some modifications, ex, if you will be going to a centre input, you could remove the very first and the very last channels, they are there for nothing, unless you are going for a pelt. Also if you are going for a pelt i would leave it with 2 barbs. also i would drop the walls in the middle, they are only resticting the flow of the water. i would think of something else than those fins to create turbulance, what about pins?? you could like chop that wall to make some pins out of it but it would be better if the pins where spread out. hope you understood my $0.02 opinion
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05-06-2003, 06:22 PM | #5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Utah
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Thanks for the input...we are definitely planning on using a Pelt...
hence all the fins. All the channels put together make up approximately 50x50mm (~size of a pelt) for maximume cooling. I agree...all the fins would be wasted however if we weren't using a pelt.. |
05-06-2003, 06:24 PM | #6 |
Cooling Savant
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How thick is the baseplate?
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05-06-2003, 06:24 PM | #7 |
Cooling Savant
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what i wanted to say is: drop the circled walls below. they are only restricting the flow or water (besides what i said above )
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05-06-2003, 06:27 PM | #8 |
Cooling Neophyte
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the base plate is 3mm thick...however each of the little divits you see on the bottom of the channel is 0.5mm deep. So the baseplate is actually 2.5mm thick under each divit.
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05-06-2003, 06:28 PM | #9 |
Cooling Savant
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You could decrease the thickness of the baseplate since a Tec has a high surface area (50x50) and you wouldn't need to spread the heat. I'd say drop the thickness untill structural integrety is not a problem.
I hope I'm not mistaken with my reasoning though.
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05-06-2003, 06:31 PM | #10 |
Cooling Savant
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sorry forgot the image, and as hara mentioned, i rememberd somthing, hehe, i would use a thin bp with a pelt,
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05-06-2003, 06:38 PM | #11 |
Cooling Neophyte
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Location: Utah
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We probably could have used a little thinner baseplate...
As far as removing those walls...not quite sure I understand you? If i removed those walls...there would not be a channel for the water to flow. So it would just go through the inlet and straight across the bottom to the outlet. The channels assure that avery part of the block has the same amount of water passing over it and they also provide more surface area... |
05-06-2003, 06:42 PM | #12 |
Cooling Savant
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the channels there are restricting the water, if you produce enough turbulance, you could remove the walls and gain a better flow of the water inside the block.
what i suggest is to do this, chop all the walls you have to produce pins instead, i don't know if i am being understood, anyone can help me out??
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05-06-2003, 06:56 PM | #13 |
Put up or Shut Up
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Channel walls need to stay. Very nice work. You got a PM headed your way.
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05-06-2003, 06:57 PM | #14 |
Cooling Savant
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ok when i was refering to pins, this is what i was talking about, here is the inside of BladeRunner's block
see the pins??? If instead of your wall you could put some of those, I think that would be great. Anyone can support me or put my thought down ??
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05-06-2003, 09:11 PM | #15 |
Cooling Savant
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Cool an X-man Block. anyone see the movie yet ? Oh yeah nice block.
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05-06-2003, 11:29 PM | #16 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: USA
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Very nice looking block. Where you are using a pelt under it, I would not change a thing. Removing those sweet looking walls might add some performance, but then again it might not.
Very nice. |
05-07-2003, 01:12 AM | #17 |
Cooling Savant
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Nice job!
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05-07-2003, 04:12 AM | #18 |
Cooling Savant
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Very nice work!
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Boo! |
05-07-2003, 07:00 AM | #19 |
Cooling Savant
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I also think the walls should stay. In this configuration the water will hit all the fins. Without them water will chose the easiest path making the water stagnate where it's needed to flow.
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05-07-2003, 07:06 AM | #20 |
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05-07-2003, 07:12 AM | #21 | |
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Quote:
thing of a #rotor style block. There are no walls, only pins, the water enters the block at one end and exits at the other end. How can the water ever get stagnant in those situations??? One question to bobn4burton, did you polish that block??? It have a wonderful shiny look. if yes, what did you use??
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05-07-2003, 07:22 AM | #22 |
Cooling Savant
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#rotor blocks don't rely on channels. This is a pelt block and there are a lot of open spaces. In a #rotor block the gaps are so small that water is forced to pass through every possible gap it can find.
With channels, water will have less way in which to pass therefore increasing its velocity although putting more restriction. Think of a maze block (eg: maze 3). These type of blocks perform well with pelts. I have found that tomato puree (kunserva) works well for polishing copper (while scrubbing). Really.
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05-07-2003, 07:39 AM | #23 | |
Cooling Savant
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Quote:
i still can't understand how water can ever get stagnant
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05-07-2003, 08:15 AM | #24 |
Cooling Savant
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That would involve a new design then.
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05-07-2003, 08:24 AM | #25 | |
Cooling Savant
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Quote:
but performace is on the top of the list no??
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