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| Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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10-17-2002, 07:20 AM
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#51 |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 468
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Don't be to critical about my hand drawing skils, but I currently don't have any normal 3d graphic card, so drawing in ProE isn't realy comfortable for me
 This is the way I would do it, to be as minimalistic as possible, still a lot more complicated then normal two separate hose conectors, but water flow through this block would be realy restriced only where it counts. 
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10-17-2002, 09:36 AM
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#52 |
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Actually, I really admire your hand drawings, I wish that I could draw like that!
That's very much what I had in mind, but I didn't care to make the outer hose any smaller. In your representation, there's actually two extra 90 degree bends (sort of), and that's exactly what I'm trying to avoid. MadDog: see Morphling1's drawing. I actually had top outlets in mind, but I wouldn't want my hoses to kink against the side case, so I'll have to switch to 2 side barbs. It means a 90 degree turn for the 1 7/8 flow, into a 1/2 opening, but that shouldn't be so bad. Some progress, next post. |
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10-17-2002, 09:38 AM
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#53 |
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Thermophile
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Just shut up ;) ...
Posts: 1,068
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I was thinking of doing something like the drawing of splitting the pipes you've done(but it would have been integral to the block top), but I'd have had the inner carry through and the outer vent from a barb next to the inlet, I gave up cause it'd been to 'tall' once I'd allowed enough distance for the flow from the 8 outlets(4 for all intents, cause each two are joined) to 'equalise', because the outlet would still be offset...
BBs going to use the entire diametre of the block as his outlet 'barb' I think, or that was the impression I got... I like the idea of doing it small as a fitting!, that's excellent , I'd have both barbs on the same side you have the 'outertube' outlet, to do away with any 90Deg bends.*EDIT* You beat me to it! ... I'm going to have to work out how my scanner works!, I like that 'on the fly' look as well ...
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10-17-2002, 09:44 AM
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#54 |
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Utabintarbo pointed out to me this morning that the 1/8 channel that the minimum endmill dictates is too large, and after recalculating (I made a sum error), it's apparent that there would be only 8 fins left (and 8 posts on the outer edges, maybe).
So the CNC option is out, unless someone's got a very high speed (10'000 rpm??) CNC setup that can handle a 1mm endmill. In the mean time, I've been exploring the possibility of dremelling this thing by hand. I found plenty of bits at www.widgetsupply.com but I'll need to run this by you guys: Here are the bits I picked out, and pics: type: Diamond burr Cylinder shaped diamond burr, 1/16" in diameter x 1/4" long, with 1/8" shank. type: Carbide burr 0.8mm x 3.6mm Densply Maillefer Cylinder Carbide Burr, 1/16" shank. Approximately 3/4" overall. Made in Switzerland. type: HSS 0.8mm x 4.1mm Densply Maillefer HSS Cylinder Burr. 1/16" shank. Approximately 3/4" overall. Made in Switzerland. The pink stuff is a lubricant. My little Dremel is rated to 35'000 rpm, but with little power. My question is: can I do this, in 1 mm, with the right Dremel? |
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10-17-2002, 09:51 AM
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#55 | |
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Thermophile
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Just shut up ;) ...
Posts: 1,068
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Quote:
, would I be able to optimise for 8 fins, the ideal width of fin I mean?. or does it not work with a fixed amount?, I mean the amount is dictated by the optimisation?...************************************ I think you could do it but not totaly 'free hand', if you made up a 'suport' for making straight lines maybe?, to keep the dremel upright and 'carry the line' so to speak... You can get a gizmo that makes a router from a dremel can't you?, I wonder?... Can you not afford to take this to a specialist like Cather did?...(I know I could'nt  )
Last edited by MadDogMe; 10-17-2002 at 09:58 AM. |
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10-17-2002, 10:25 AM
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#56 | |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pullman, WA
Posts: 91
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Quote:
We use .020" diamond burrs (0.50 mm) and larger ones, like the one you have pictured to drill through glass, sapphire, ruby, etc. They do break very easily and would be a total bitch to put a side load on. We go through a lot of them just drilling straight holes. I also have the 35,000 rpm dremel and about 10 years of dremel experience. You can do just about whatever you want with it, IF you have the time and very strong, steady hands. It takes a long time and is easy to screw things up with a slight slip. They do make a Dremel drill press that would be ideal for aligning and holding the Dremel while you feed the material very slowly. Don't forget that you can probably use the fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels to slice straight lines into the block, instead of 'milling' with the Dremel. The only problem is that those are harder to control if they hang up at all. Maybe worth a try. |
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10-17-2002, 10:31 AM
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#57 |
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I happen to have the dril press attachment, as well as the router table...
Diamond bit's out. Thanks for the tip, N8! |
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10-17-2002, 12:24 PM
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#58 |
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CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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Ben I am having my CNC machine retrofitted with a 1 hp 30,000 RPM black and decker router motor. HAving the motor mount made.
We can try the smaller bits while still roughing the design out with a larger one. I also have a large RIO pump that I use for my flood coolant. And I have access to a few rather large and expensive HAAS cnc centers. Get me a CAD drawing.
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10-17-2002, 01:03 PM
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#59 |
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Hum...
With a 1/8 endmill, I'm down to 8 fins and 8 posts. It's a no-go. The copper to channel ratio has to be 1.5:1, with a fin height of 5mm, unless I try to calculate another fin height which might allow a thinner fin, but I doubt it. It's going to have to be 1mm, or I'll have to do it by hand. I looked at the machining parameters (here ), but I'm having a hard time with it. I could calculate the length of all the required cuts, if it's any help. What's you ropinion on the viability of doing this by hand? Here's Utabintarbo's interpretation. The fin pattern is different than mine, but let's see if we're talking the same language, so far! |
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10-17-2002, 02:24 PM
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#60 | |
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Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Pullman, WA
Posts: 91
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Quote:
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10-17-2002, 02:32 PM
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#61 |
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CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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Well if you buy the endmills, we can try that sucker with the 1mm. But they had better be carbide and tin coated!
RAW
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10-17-2002, 02:35 PM
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#62 |
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I'll have to find another source. All I got from widget is this:
Pointed Titanium Nitrite Burr, approx. .100" in diameter. |
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10-17-2002, 03:13 PM
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#63 |
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CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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1/16th endmills are .125 how bad does this throw you off on the calcs?
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10-17-2002, 03:29 PM
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#64 | |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sterling Hts., MI
Posts: 496
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Quote:
Bob
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Sarcasm is yet another of the free services we offer! |
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10-17-2002, 03:40 PM
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#66 |
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Not too bad, acceptable in fact!
The design would have 4 sets of fins. Oh, here's a color coded pic! Fin set #1: orange Fin set #2: blue Fin set #3: green Fin set #4: red The posts, which are actually fin set #5, would normally taper down from their full width at radius = 32mm, down to 0 at radius 16mm. The whole fin pattern was originally designed to fit within radius = 15 mm, which takes out the posts. The circle of fins could be made a bit bigger, it really doesn't matter, as the fins have little effect at that distance. Of course that's an assumption based on a 1mm baseplate, and since I've opted for 2 to 3mm, I'll have to double check, but off-hand, if we made the circle radius 20mm, we should be covered. |
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10-17-2002, 03:45 PM
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#67 | |
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Quote:
I ran a google search, and I found this coating on: dental implants, fishing rods, motorcycle parts, knife blades, guns parts, and of course drilling bits. It's easily recognized as it looks like a gold coating. |
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10-17-2002, 04:04 PM
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#68 |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
Posts: 517
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Wow, for a psychodelic effect, scroll bb2k's last image up and down the screen in front of you.
Check around at robjack, they can custom make any bit to your specs. |
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10-17-2002, 04:05 PM
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#70 |
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CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
Posts: 721
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LOL GF..... It looks like its flapping!!!!!!!!!
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10-17-2002, 04:07 PM
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#71 | |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Da UP
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Quote:
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10-17-2002, 04:12 PM
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#72 | |
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Quote:
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10-17-2002, 04:13 PM
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#73 |
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CNC Beyatch
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tulsa Spell it backwards
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Coudlnt hurt to try it. Now could it. Hell If I cant do it, or get it done..... Then it cant be....... well maybe someone else can LOL
Sure lets do this!
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10-17-2002, 04:21 PM
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#74 |
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Ok. I'll spend the weekend figuring out how badly this 20mm (diameter) blade will chop up the block... since the 20mm is going to cut into many other fins!
I'm off tmo, but I might log in just to see what's up. In the mean time, I'll just give myself a psychadelic buzz, using my mouse wheel
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10-17-2002, 06:28 PM
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#75 | |
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Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Slovenia
Posts: 468
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Quote:
 Other than that, good to see you found thos saw blades, I'm just looking at a catalogue here, they go from thickness 0.2mm and up this is a lot better then milling , and arbor is very easy to do, I have one but it is for larger blades, but I'll also make one for those fine thin saw blades, then the fun begins
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