Apparently "ancient" Maze2 design. Any hope?

[Since87]

I bought a couple used Maze2 waterblocks with the intention of making a TEC based waterchiller out of them. Got to looking at one of them, and the internal channel didn't look like the picture on the DD website. I popped the top off and saw that it is an extemely restrictive design with lots of el turns. I've attached a paint drawing. (Blue circle is inlet, red is outlet.)

Any ideas on what I could do with a dremel to make this block worth using?

I've got a 1/4 NPT tap and could relocate the barbs and plug the existing holes. For my purposes I can even locate the barbs on the edge of the block.

[bigben2k]

I wouldn't do anything to it.

If you must... cut out those last two "L"s, and fill the void with <insert substance of choice her>.

Got a pic?

[gmat]

I'm still using one on my CPU -> a tbird 1GHz OC'ed at 1.5. A heat factory... And i've got GPU and NB blocks behind it.
It's performing quite well. Keep it like it is - use 1/2" barbs, that's all.

[Since87]

Originally posted by bigben2k
If you must... cut out those last two "L"s, and fill the void with <insert substance of choice her>.

Got a pic?

I'm planning on using it with two 40X40 mm TEC's. The area you are talking about filling, is over a substantial portion of the TEC surface, so filling it with something that's not very thermally conductive would hurt performance.

I don't have a digital camera, so I can't take pics anytime soon.

[bigben2k]

Originally posted by Since87
I'm planning on using it with two 40X40 mm TEC's

Is there anything else you forgot to mention?

Leave them as is, and use 1/2 barbs, like gmat wrote.

[wymjym]

I have one of those blocks in my pelt chiller (with 1/2 lines+fittings). The channels are soooooooo restrictive that the 1/2 fittings and lines are a joke. (if it has 3/8 just leave them)
I assume you were planning on using three blocks+2 pelts?
Why not do this........
take both maze lls and remove the tops, get a 1/8 sheet of copper and cut a rectangle the size of the maze, drill a hole in the center to line up with the center 'port'. Solder the blocks together with the thin p;ate in place. Drill one block on the side to accept a brass fitting and do the same with the other...tap them and screw in the fittings. then get two other blocks and make a sandwich with the modded mazlls in the center.
A lot of work but the double thickness and the amount of time the water will be being 'chilled' should really help cool things down.
wj

[Since87]

Originally posted by wymjym
I have one of those blocks in my pelt chiller (with 1/2 lines+fittings). The channels are soooooooo restrictive that the 1/2 fittings and lines are a joke. (if it has 3/8 just leave them)
I assume you were planning on using three blocks+2 pelts?
Why not do this........
take both maze lls and remove the tops, get a 1/8 sheet of copper and cut a rectangle the size of the maze, drill a hole in the center to line up with the center 'port'. Solder the blocks together with the thin p;ate in place. Drill one block on the side to accept a brass fitting and do the same with the other...tap them and screw in the fittings. then get two other blocks and make a sandwich with the modded mazlls in the center.
A lot of work but the double thickness and the amount of time the water will be being 'chilled' should really help cool things down.
wj

Yeah, but then I'd have two get two more 172 Watt Tec's to take advantage of all that additional surface area.

Because I have two different Maze2s, the "center" holes don't line up. The outer holes do, although there's not much benefit to that.

I wasn't really wanting two add two more waterblocks to the system.

The cold side of the system is going to have a White Water and an Eheim 1250 on it, and later, maybe a Little River GPU block. The hotside is going to have a Danner Mag5 and heatercore big enough for two (or four) 120mm fans. (Mitsubishi Gallant, 99 I believe)

Any thoughts on which side (hot or cold) to use the more restrictive Maze2 with? I'd be inclined to pair it up with the more powerful Danner pump, but the hotside block is going to be moving a lot more heat than the cold side block, so a low C/W on that side is important too.

[redleader]

Thats a Maze2 'classic'. I have one of the last ever made. Actually me and GuyBFF (haven't heard of him in ages) ordered at the same time and he got the new and I the old.

Its actually a pretty good design if you throw enough flow at it. It was replaced with the high flow model after DD switched to 1/2 for most of their orders though. I don't have a diode to monitor with, but it consistantly gave me temps < 8C of coolant temp across two different systems w/ an Eheim 1250.

As for 1/2 being a joke, not so. Its all 1/2 through. As I recall the first 1/2 inch systems on [H] were all Maze2s that people converted. Performance was improved enough that people started bugging DD to do the same.

[wymjym]

Originally posted by redleader


As for 1/2 being a joke, not so. Its all 1/2 through. As I recall the first 1/2 inch systems on [H] were all Maze2s that people converted. Performance was improved enough that people started bugging DD to do the same.

If DD was making changes on the 'fly' (and improving flow channel area) then your statement is valid. I can assure you that my mazell is very restrictive and a 3/8 line (id +/- .30") with a 190gph pump still builds a considerable pressure head at the input to that block.

I would suggest that the more restrictive unit be used on the cold side.
wj