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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it |
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02-04-2003, 11:00 AM | #26 | |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Sep 2002
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Quote:
Constant setup changes is a PITA for one....with CNC you just clamp your peice down , touch off on your part and start ur up(basically)....unless you have more cutting to do on the other side that is! |
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02-04-2003, 11:33 AM | #27 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Ghent, Belgium
Posts: 83
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LiquidRulez: well yea but I want to have some manual experience first, and some fun!
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02-04-2003, 11:46 AM | #28 | |
Put up or Shut Up
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I can't find jack on the Rung Fu. :shrug: Sounds like a good mill though. |
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02-04-2003, 02:42 PM | #29 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Ghent, Belgium
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I'm aware of the high tooling costs Anyhow I still have ALOT of stuff to sell on ebay, so I guess I'll have a few $100 after I sold all that stuff. I guess my parents could help me with the rest of the money for my birthday... Still have to find a mill though, still no idea where to find them around here
Ooh just had one of those briliant brainfarts! Going to try to find out which mill Morphling uses, he's in europe isn't he? Eek he seems to have an expensive EMCO mill ($2000), not within my budget... although it looks nice Last edited by dax; 02-04-2003 at 02:47 PM. |
02-04-2003, 02:54 PM | #30 | |
Put up or Shut Up
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Found a lot of stuff. They look pretty good for the price! I am going to tear mine down tonight. I think I am going to Mod it! I have a few off the wall ideas how to beef up the colum and change out the crappy drive screws. Another project to add to the never ending list. |
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02-04-2003, 03:11 PM | #31 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Ghent, Belgium
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Still have to check Rong Fu... but oh damn those sherlines look soooo sexy... http://www.sherline.com/images/5400apkg.jpg but it also looks like it's going to fall down really soon heh... is the base heavy enough to keep the thing upright? (i guess you need to bolt it down anyhow)
Oh yea I don't have to much space either... so maybe a small (light?) mill like the sherline would fit around here (atleast you can move it, unlike the heavier ones...). Oh yea how does it actualy "perform"? How does it cut alu & cu (as those are the metals i'll use the most)? http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/2231.cfm that rong fu looks nice... not too expensive either... |
02-04-2003, 04:23 PM | #32 | |
Cooling Savant
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02-04-2003, 04:38 PM | #33 |
Cooling Savant
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Damn, that Rong Fu looks gooood!!! Can anybody tell how much a unit like that can weigh? Damn, I want it!!!!
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02-04-2003, 05:25 PM | #34 | |
Cooling Savant
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I bought used one (very little usage) but Emco's aren't cheap I pay ~2500$ for mill with precise vise and chuck with collets. Shopping on-line for this things outside overseas would kill you in shipping cost as the weight quickly pass 100 kg, my is around 200kg. I'm pretty sure that you can find someone in Belgium that sells used (re-newed) machines, as I find few places very quickly even in our small Slovenia.
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02-04-2003, 07:16 PM | #35 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: palo alto, CA
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if only i had some money
Here is a nice one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...309972776&rd=1 for my personal needs I go back to my old high school to do some machining I also found a guy in my class who works at a machine shop. I understand that some people like to do it all themselves, I do too, but my current living space is not very permitting to have one of those machines. I have to find other ways of getting my stuff done. BTW since grizzly is made in China (woot yes it true) i would not buy one used, since it probably is not very accurate. But then again accurate for me is 1/1000th. |
02-04-2003, 08:08 PM | #36 | |
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This only took a hour and a half. Of course that was with CNC. You can do Copper with good endmills with the Sherline. It is slow though, but if you use the hand wheels you will be going slow anyways. Did this with the CNC: 1/2" wide and 3/8" deep. Took 45mins. Did this one with the HAND wheels. took about an hour. Did this one with the hand wheels also: That one took about an hour. The Sherline is far from useless. Not bad for a 35lb mill! |
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02-04-2003, 09:26 PM | #37 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Willmar MN/Fargo ND
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Liquidrulez, I would be interested in seeing your grizzly mill, and some info about converting it, In the future I may some day do that, or get something larger and convert that.
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02-04-2003, 09:49 PM | #38 | |
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Quote:
http://plsntcov.8m.com/grizzley.html http://home.cinci.rr.com/hardball/CNC.htm |
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02-04-2003, 09:52 PM | #39 | |
Cooling Neophyte
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02-04-2003, 11:21 PM | #40 | |
Cooling Savant
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02-06-2003, 10:19 AM | #41 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Ghent, Belgium
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I think I made a decision... I'm going to save a bit more money untill i can afford a nice, good quality mill. Until then, I'm going to spend my time with some other projects... oh you guys want to know which ones? You'll find out... I'll post progess and all
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02-06-2003, 02:44 PM | #42 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Chesterfield Uk
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This is such a good forum, it's amazing other sites haven't followed Pro's lead here?
As a milling machine "virgin" I've done more reading than posting, but reading this topic I was thinking the Rong Fu sounds really good, so followed the urls to find it's the same as my mill This mill seems to go under a lot of Pseudonyms, I wonder who really makes it?. Mine was purchased in the UK where we have a lot less choice of mills than the USA, (and higher prices / taxation). I think we probably have more access to supply of older Bridgeport machines but these are mostly always three phase, so would require single phase motors, and are by design huge, so although they maybe a better choice in the long I decided on the Rong Fu. Mine is actually named SIP 30 and I have a brief preview of it included in my Radeon 9700 Cooler build project, (click pic). I totally agree with LiquidRulez comments it is a great tool, although it can be seen it's evidently made to a cost, which is understandable. Those considering it should be aware of the weight. There is NO way, (unless you won the strongest man contest), that you'd lift the thing on your own. Even two people would struggle, I had to use a car engine crane to assemble it as it wouldn't fit in one piece in my, (compact by American standards), estate car, (station wagon). I made a stand for it but it needs to be strong as it weighs in at nearly 400lbs (180kg)! LiquidRulez I be interested in the CNC kits that can be used with it if you have any links or info, and you are correct the column, (I have a circular type, wasn't aware there was any other option), is a pain in the @$$, with recalibration). I also really like the look of morphling1's mill...... looks a real quality item. Another thing that is true.... this is a HUGE money pit, you can keep throwing it in, but if you have a little ability it's worth it imo when you can spit stuff like this out:- I'm getting better but so far two dead 5mm 4 flute end mills and one partially dead 5mm, and one dead 2mm also. I've since made a milling lubrication / cooling system using / modifying a cheap parts washer.........appears to work really well. For those that don't have the funds to throw at expensive mills, I could and did get by making good enough blocks with nothing more than basic hand tools if need be, as my original homemade "milling machine" was almost useless, details in sig link.
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02-06-2003, 02:58 PM | #43 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Nov 2001
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now bladerunner, don't discourage me by showing your nice, beatiful, pieces of art uhm waterblocks
I really admire your work and I know that it's possible to get great results without a mill, but I'm going to get one anyhow, someday, when I've saved a bit more money to buy a decent, solid mill Oh btw, did I mention that CPU block is a cutie? |
02-06-2003, 03:58 PM | #44 | |
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02-06-2003, 04:28 PM | #45 | |
Cooling Savant
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Yeah, GREAT forum indeed! BladeRunner, your mill is brand new, how much does it cost? Thx!
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02-06-2003, 06:33 PM | #46 |
Cooling Savant
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Well some people's hobbies involve dressing in rubber suits and inflating themselves, or extreme ironing at the top of mountains... so when I think of them, I feel far more "normal" sitting here with a serious copper fetish
The good thing about this forum is that it generates more detailed discussion and information sharing, on this type subject that would in the past have got lost in a general water-cooling or extreme cooling forum. I guess Pro intend to keep at as it appears popular, I hope so anyway. Details of my Sip 30 mill, (that I'm 99% sure reading the specs and comparing images is the same as the Rong fu mill), are in the Mill image link in my previous post, including UK price when I bought it.
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02-06-2003, 11:15 PM | #47 |
Cooling Neophyte
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BladeRunner, How do you get that surface finish on your blocks? Is that from a vibratory tumbler, a rotary tumbler, or just a buffing wheel? It's amazing that you put such a surface finish on all your blocks. I'd like to do the same for all my blocks, but without a buffer or polisher, it's nearly impossible.
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02-07-2003, 12:36 AM | #48 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: palo alto, CA
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read!!!
for real dude the least you could do before asking. -nice tone of voice here-
read blade runner's articles on watercooling the R300 and Geforce4 ti 4600 and you'll get the gist! For the those that are ****ing lazy to click a few links: http://www.deviantpc.com/articles/gf4wcp1/p4.shtml P.S. i am sorry if I sound like i am angry, I am a nice guy, really! |
02-07-2003, 04:36 AM | #49 | |
Cooling Neophyte
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Re: read!!!
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1. His early blocks had many more flat surfaces than this last one. 2. His surface finish seems to have improved over his early blocks. The polishing method described in your link only works well for flat surfaces. Although possible for curved surfaces, it becomes exponentially more difficult with tight spaces. If you look closely at this latest block, it appears that even the brass hose barb is polished, and even polished well on the inside. I have made many, many waterblocks, and have never seen brass barbs available for purchase that are internally and externally polished. It also appears that the barb may have been polished after being inserted into the block, as I see no telltale signs of wrench-tightening. Although it is still possible to polish this latest block using the same method, I'm just wondering if BladeRunner still does it all manually, as by my estimation there is well over 5 hours of polishing by hand to reach that lustre. I'd like to hear his answer, please. |
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02-07-2003, 06:47 PM | #50 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Australia
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Get a decent mill is my advice.
My mill weighs between 250-300KGs AFAIK. Having a few small problems with it atm (table shaking) but I think It was because me and my dad started fiddling with backlash and table tension. Also try to get a mill with a square column (one where the table moves up and down rather than the head could be even better). Try really hard to get a mill that allows you to lock all axis. This stops any potenial movement in other dimensions when you dont want it (Why we originally started fiddling with backlash etc, to stop some slight movement as my mill cant lock the x and y axis ) Decent vice is always good thing to have. I have an older vice that allows the work to be tilted and angled. And a new very nice vice that allows 360ยบ movement. I'd also recommend getting a set of parallels, which I don't have atm and am using bits of wood Even if you dont want CNC now, look at each mill in terms of ease of conversion, you don't want to spend lots of $$$ to not be able to do what you want in the future. |
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