What is the best bar none.

psychofunk · 02-05-2003, 02:38 AM

Yeah okay so there are like 10 different possiblities in the case of a radiator that will fit my space but what performs the best. Is a heater core better than one of those black ice pro jobies from danger dan? If so then which one? I just want the best that will be approx 6x7x1.5 (HxWxD) or less

Puzzdre · 02-05-2003, 07:00 AM

Think that mounting hc/rad down front in the case is the best solution, it's getting the coolest air on the intake (close to the ground) and with barbs up, it's easy to fill/bleed the system in that position. It really depends on your preference and size of the case, but that's the way I would mount it.

Dunno what's better BIpro or hcore, don't have any experience with BIpro:shrug:

Good luck!

bigben2k · 02-05-2003, 08:52 AM

A heatercore should perform better.

Personally, I'll be installing a 6 by 8 by 2.5 core, in the opening where the PSU should be: top/back of the case, vertically.

The worst spot would be at the top (horizontally), in a blow-hole configuration, because air can get trapped in it. The air will prevent the heatercore from performing fully.

Your best choice is going to depend on the size of each option. The bigger, the better. Using a thicker core is a great and easy way to get better cooling.

Blackeagle · 02-05-2003, 11:06 AM

Are you trying for a quiet system or a O/Cing ultra performance rig? Doesnt' really affect the rad choice, just curious. Other components?

And BigBen is right, bigger is better.

psychofunk · 02-05-2003, 02:35 PM

I want it ALLLL!!

I have an Epox EP-8RDA+, an XP1900+, (2) 256mb xms pc3200cl2, WD 80GB SE, (2) fanbus's + the norm, all shoehorned into an Aluminum Chenming w/430w.

I am looking for quiet (shhhhhh, this is a library) and I want as close to a 200Mhz FSB as I can get.

As for space I am limited by the fact that i want all my stuff to fit in the case, plus I think it will look cool having a rad sticking out of the side of my computer, kinda like an intercooler...

mmmmm turbo's.

I will be configing my system like so all that will change is the tube config "pump -> rad -> CPU -> res -> pump":

Blackeagle · 02-05-2003, 07:32 PM

A 2-261 Chevette core will do you pretty well. It is a 6" x 6" x 2" cooling area + tanks & inlet/outlet. You might need to install it laid over on it's side as with the tanks it will be taller than your specs. It is also 1/2" thicker but this will add a good deal to it's cooling.

For a CPU block this core should serve you well.

Seal · 02-06-2003, 02:40 AM

Is the DTEC heatercore anygood compaired to other heatercores? Im going for silence too.

Blackeagle · 02-06-2003, 03:01 AM

Well no matter if your goal is O/C or quiet a large rad is needed. You just use differant fans. A low CFM for quiet. And high(er) output for O/Cing.

psychofunk · 02-06-2003, 02:48 PM

What do you think about using 4 TMD fans on a fanbus instead of one 120mm. Do you think that will give me the best of both worlds? Oh yeah and what is a tank (what you said was on the rad)? Oh yeah and is it better to have a rad with larger or smaller inlet/outlets (pressure or flow or whatever)? My hose is 1/2"...wait a minute that did'nt come out right...my tube is half inch ID.

redleader · 02-06-2003, 04:41 PM

Quote:

The worst spot would be at the top (horizontally), in a blow-hole configuration, because air can get trapped in it. The air will prevent the heatercore from performing fully.

Actually this doesn't happen. I've tried inverting my system just be sure, and nothing at all floats out.

Though I have a large res that bleeds everything out.

Blackeagle · 02-06-2003, 05:39 PM

Good one, best laugh of the day

The tank is the contained area above/below the fined cooling portion of a rad. The bottom tank guides the water in it's reverse of direction, the top tank has your inlet and outlet.

The inlet/outlet size doesn't matter much. Most guys solder in barbs of the size they want anyway.

Small fans like 70's aren't going to generate much pressure. And a 120mm is quiet if you don't buy a 100+CFM job. Get one of 80CFM or lower and I think you'll like it well. Got a reobus? That is the perfect solution.

psychofunk · 02-06-2003, 07:20 PM

Yeah I've got 2 fanbuses, my sig is not far off because when I have all 6 of my fans goin (1 is a delta), the only thing missing is the smell of pine.

m3_arun · 02-06-2003, 09:40 PM

bb2k,

Quote:

Personally, I'll be installing a 6 by 8 by 2.5 core

what model heatercore is this?
just curious.

Blackeagle · 02-06-2003, 11:46 PM

m3,

That cought my eye as well. But I couldn't find it. Would be a nice size.

superart · 02-07-2003, 08:32 AM

you should pump the hot exaust water from the block strait to the rad/core and then to the res. That way the heat of the pump is added to the water boefore it enters the the rad. not only does this eliminate the the added heat that would otherwise be stored in the res., it also improves the effciency of the rad/core by increasing the delta heat.

bigben2k · 02-07-2003, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by m3_arun
bb2k,

what model heatercore is this?
just curious.

2-324, 2-323, 2-244 or 2-213. (they're actually 7 3/4 by 6 1/8 by 2 1/2).

bigben2k · 02-07-2003, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by superart
you should pump the hot exaust water from the block strait to the rad/core and then to the res. That way the heat of the pump is added to the water before it enters the the rad. not only does this eliminate the the added heat that would otherwise be stored in the res., it also improves the effciency of the rad/core by increasing the delta heat.

You're promoting a myth:

#1, the heat appears at the restriction within the loop, and 95% of the time, that'll be in the waterblock.

#2, the heat is minimal: we're talking about less than 2 watts here, unless you have a huge pump.

To calculate the power (in Watts), multiply the pressure drop (in Pascals) by the flow rate (in m^3/sec). Thanks to Since87.

You can apply the calculation for the whole loop, or for any individual component within the loop (if you know the dP [pressure drop] and flowrate).

#3 the "other" heat from the pump, is from sheer coil heat, transmitted to the water through the housing, but since 99% of housings are plastic, it should be relatively insignificant.

psychofunk · 02-07-2003, 12:20 PM

Hey Ben you seem pretty smart throwing those big words arround like watt

, I was considering going (all items placed exactly as pictured above) rad to cpu to pump to res, but I want to make the res out of aluminum with metal channels (like a battery) to help cool the water (don't know if it will work, it's just an idea) since I want to run a smaller core. Do you see any possiblilities in creating something like that? Do you think that it will work at all? Do you have any suggestions in materials and/or design? I was thinking like a big maze to absorb the heat, maybe with a slow spinning fan on top like a heatsink but that I would'nt hear.

bigben2k · 02-07-2003, 12:52 PM

That will work just fine. Anything that can add to the heat dissipation is good. I've even considered finned copper piping. Just keep in mind where the heat's going, because you don't want it to sit around in your case. Also, your PSU needs to stay cool too!

I'd be concerned with the Alu/copper combo, but after being put in my place about it, by Bill, I'd rather take the time to figure it all out, once and for all. (In other words, I'll refrain from comments

)

psychofunk · 02-07-2003, 01:34 PM

Finned copper piping? So how would you do that in a res, would'nt that be like have a rad? Or would you run it through the res and just put small holes in it everywhere so that the water could fllow in and out?

This is a very ruff draft of what I was thinking of, the only problem is I don't know how I would cool it. I coulb add a blow hole to my case but I don't know how effective that would be.

psychofunk · 02-07-2003, 01:37 PM

Opps messed the image here goes

bigben2k · 02-07-2003, 01:58 PM

I meant "finned copper tubing" instead of regular tubing. It's strictly air cooled.

psychofunk · 02-07-2003, 03:28 PM

Ohh, you mean like instead of 1/2" Tygon you would go with 1/2" copper tubing that has fins on the outside! Right? Sounds like it'll look like pin heads (hellraiser) case

bigben2k · 02-07-2003, 04:01 PM

Ding Ding!

psychofunk · 02-07-2003, 06:01 PM

Oh here you go with the big words again.

02-06-2003, 05:39 PM	#11
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Good one, best laugh of the day The tank is the contained area above/below the fined cooling portion of a rad. The bottom tank guides the water in it's reverse of direction, the top tank has your inlet and outlet. The inlet/outlet size doesn't matter much. Most guys solder in barbs of the size they want anyway. Small fans like 70's aren't going to generate much pressure. And a 120mm is quiet if you don't buy a 100+CFM job. Get one of 80CFM or lower and I think you'll like it well. Got a reobus? That is the perfect solution. Last edited by Blackeagle; 02-06-2003 at 05:46 PM.

02-07-2003, 08:32 AM	#15
superart Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: FL Posts: 787	you should pump the hot exaust water from the block strait to the rad/core and then to the res. That way the heat of the pump is added to the water boefore it enters the the rad. not only does this eliminate the the added heat that would otherwise be stored in the res., it also improves the effciency of the rad/core by increasing the delta heat. __________________ When you do things right, people won't be sure youv'e done anything at all. Looking to buy/trade for used Deep Fryer and Vacume Pack Sealer.

02-07-2003, 12:52 PM	#19
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	That will work just fine. Anything that can add to the heat dissipation is good. I've even considered finned copper piping. Just keep in mind where the heat's going, because you don't want it to sit around in your case. Also, your PSU needs to stay cool too! I'd be concerned with the Alu/copper combo, but after being put in my place about it, by Bill, I'd rather take the time to figure it all out, once and for all. (In other words, I'll refrain from comments ) __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

02-07-2003, 01:58 PM	#22
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I meant "finned copper tubing" instead of regular tubing. It's strictly air cooled. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

02-07-2003, 04:01 PM	#24
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Ding Ding! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

02-05-2003, 02:38 AM	#1
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	What is the best bar none. Yeah okay so there are like 10 different possiblities in the case of a radiator that will fit my space but what performs the best. Is a heater core better than one of those black ice pro jobies from danger dan? If so then which one? I just want the best that will be approx 6x7x1.5 (HxWxD) or less

02-05-2003, 07:00 AM	#2
Puzzdre Cooling Savant Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Croatia Posts: 969	Think that mounting hc/rad down front in the case is the best solution, it's getting the coolest air on the intake (close to the ground) and with barbs up, it's easy to fill/bleed the system in that position. It really depends on your preference and size of the case, but that's the way I would mount it. Dunno what's better BIpro or hcore, don't have any experience with BIpro:shrug: Good luck! __________________ 'Out of cheese error... ...please reboot the universe (press the GBL to continue)'

02-05-2003, 08:52 AM	#3
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	A heatercore should perform better. Personally, I'll be installing a 6 by 8 by 2.5 core, in the opening where the PSU should be: top/back of the case, vertically. The worst spot would be at the top (horizontally), in a blow-hole configuration, because air can get trapped in it. The air will prevent the heatercore from performing fully. Your best choice is going to depend on the size of each option. The bigger, the better. Using a thicker core is a great and easy way to get better cooling. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

02-05-2003, 11:06 AM	#4
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Are you trying for a quiet system or a O/Cing ultra performance rig? Doesnt' really affect the rad choice, just curious. Other components? And BigBen is right, bigger is better.

02-05-2003, 07:32 PM	#6
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	A 2-261 Chevette core will do you pretty well. It is a 6" x 6" x 2" cooling area + tanks & inlet/outlet. You might need to install it laid over on it's side as with the tanks it will be taller than your specs. It is also 1/2" thicker but this will add a good deal to it's cooling. For a CPU block this core should serve you well.

02-06-2003, 02:40 AM	#7
Seal Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Birmingham, Uk Posts: 17	Is the DTEC heatercore anygood compaired to other heatercores? Im going for silence too.

02-06-2003, 03:01 AM	#8
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	Well no matter if your goal is O/C or quiet a large rad is needed. You just use differant fans. A low CFM for quiet. And high(er) output for O/Cing.

02-06-2003, 02:48 PM	#9
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	What do you think about using 4 TMD fans on a fanbus instead of one 120mm. Do you think that will give me the best of both worlds? Oh yeah and what is a tank (what you said was on the rad)? Oh yeah and is it better to have a rad with larger or smaller inlet/outlets (pressure or flow or whatever)? My hose is 1/2"...wait a minute that did'nt come out right...my tube is half inch ID.

02-06-2003, 07:20 PM	#12
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Yeah I've got 2 fanbuses, my sig is not far off because when I have all 6 of my fans goin (1 is a delta), the only thing missing is the smell of pine.

02-06-2003, 11:46 PM	#14
Blackeagle Thermophile Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: U.S.A = Michigan Posts: 1,243	m3, That cought my eye as well. But I couldn't find it. Would be a nice size.

02-07-2003, 12:20 PM	#18
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Hey Ben you seem pretty smart throwing those big words arround like watt , I was considering going (all items placed exactly as pictured above) rad to cpu to pump to res, but I want to make the res out of aluminum with metal channels (like a battery) to help cool the water (don't know if it will work, it's just an idea) since I want to run a smaller core. Do you see any possiblilities in creating something like that? Do you think that it will work at all? Do you have any suggestions in materials and/or design? I was thinking like a big maze to absorb the heat, maybe with a slow spinning fan on top like a heatsink but that I would'nt hear.

02-07-2003, 01:34 PM	#20
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Finned copper piping? So how would you do that in a res, would'nt that be like have a rad? Or would you run it through the res and just put small holes in it everywhere so that the water could fllow in and out? This is a very ruff draft of what I was thinking of, the only problem is I don't know how I would cool it. I coulb add a blow hole to my case but I don't know how effective that would be.

02-07-2003, 03:28 PM	#23
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Ohh, you mean like instead of 1/2" Tygon you would go with 1/2" copper tubing that has fins on the outside! Right? Sounds like it'll look like pin heads (hellraiser) case

02-07-2003, 06:01 PM	#25
psychofunk Cooling Savant Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 365	Oh here you go with the big words again.

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