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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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11-21-2002, 06:46 AM | #251 |
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Oh, yeah, I forgot:
YIPIIIIEEEEEEE, HUBBAHUBBBAHUBBBA, GOGOGOGOGOGOGO, YESYESYESYESYES!!!!!
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11-21-2002, 07:24 AM | #252 |
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U DID IT!!!
i'm actually feeling proud. u r the last recent student to pass his metalworking crafts, finals in WB-building. rox say puzzdre , i got myself a tapping set m4 (damn another 20€) 3 stage; only it doesn't say which one goes first. there's one with 2 rings engraved on the shaft; one with one ring on shaft, and one with no ring on shaft. sounds familiar?
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11-21-2002, 07:36 AM | #253 |
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Yup, sounds very familiar, in my set one with one ring goes first, two rings second, no ring final. Try to look at the 'blades', one with most blunt blades goes first. And yes, don't forget the WD 40. I didn't try without it, but think it helped a lot. Didn't tried without the vice either, it went too good clamped... Wish you same luck as mine!!!
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11-21-2002, 07:47 AM | #254 |
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thx, i already thought those rings were some sort of common tapping language. tonight da g.l. is going in for the kill on his both halves. the wd 40 is ready. both halves are lapped. take the time to do it good.
so basically puzzdre,.... u r almost ready!!!! cheers dude
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11-21-2002, 08:03 AM | #255 |
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I used to buy cheap tools, but they wear out so quick!, cheap socket/ratchet sets allways shatter(sockets) or the teeth on the ratchet 'go' so it just spins or clicks past when you aply pressure. hacksaw blades snap or blunt on the second pass. drill~bits last for 3~4 holes. power tools go 'sloppy' real quick. pliers go wobbly and loose their cutting edge and serrated grip. screwdivers!!, oh god the screwdrivers that last two turns then loose their 'key', and so on. the only cheap tools that work OK are Allenkeys!!(if they don't rust in 5mins) . now I buy the best I can afford, and buy it once...
PS, anyone got a pair of curclip piers over 6months old that did'nt cost $30+/£30+? ... sorry about the sermon, but I hate cheap tools. that little stamp saying 'Made in China' gives me little faith in 'The Workers Paradise'! ... True throwing money at a job won't help if you hav'nt developed the technique, but it goes a long way towards being forgiving of 'teething(tapping?) troubles' Those 'one tap' taps are OK for Alu/Alloy or plastic/plexi ect, but you can't beat the three tap sets, think of it as a two~thirds less tension on the tap with each one... I'm glad you're getting there, it's nice to see someone happy with work they've done with their own hands... |
11-21-2002, 08:45 AM | #256 | ||
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Quote:
As for the cheap tools, I cannot agree with you more. I'm trying to buy the best affordable tools I can get, but I can judge only the tools I'm familiar with. The tools I need for the first time, there are lot's of possibilities of getting "testicles as kidneys" as people here would say, cos' not all the salesman are trustworthy, and just trying to sell you what they have. Another thing that pisses me off here, we are flooded with cheap and low quality tools because of low price. If I want to buy something with more quality, I must search hard and know what I'm looking for, which I cannot know every time for every piece. I can always judge by the price, but that's not always the right case. Now when I make the calculation as price of (cheap tool + ruined workpiece + time, nerves, dissapointment) = price of more expensive tool, and completed workpiece, satisfaction and the fun is for free...plus the tool will last for more fun and satisfaction... I'll just have to ask some more before I buy the thing... Quote:
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11-21-2002, 09:25 AM | #257 |
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heh, about the tools 'n all, you couldn't be more right. i think every step of the process has tought me some harsh realities on the aspirant block m4k0r.
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11-21-2002, 09:42 AM | #258 | |
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Quote:
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11-21-2002, 09:53 AM | #259 |
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it's phrase i got from some shaggy style ragga song. searched it up in babelfish. and apparently it means:
i am a shark (phonetically in some jamaican style voice) dunno why, but i found it a very funny sentence pronounced on the right tone. doesn't fit me too well, most sharky situations i get in, i seem to be the one getting sharked by some shrewd salespersons.
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11-21-2002, 10:05 AM | #260 |
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Jamaican style of pronounciation of english words always made me wanting to learn it But not having the source, except several movies, it's just too hard...Good one though!
Now for some Jedi wise words...There's always a bigger fish... Yeah, Jamaican and Scottish...(ABSOLUTELY NO OFFENCE MEANT!!!) I found those two accents great and kinda hillarious! (ABSOLUTELY NO OFFENCE MEANT!!!)
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11-21-2002, 12:55 PM | #261 |
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holes are tapped, now going for the last straight line to the finish (sec half needs to be drilled and dremeled) then i got looooots of sanding and finishing up to do. some pix later on i hope.
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11-21-2002, 02:08 PM | #262 |
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Great!!! Keep us posted!
There are no goops available here, so I found this: http://www.bison.net/english/index.html go for glue finder, metal to metal, large surface, to get to the Power adhesive (Bisonite)...:shrug: I used bison metal epoxy to seal the barbs on my current block, but this I found recently...anybody can chime on this product for sealing the two halves? Technical sheet says very good chemicals resistance, waterproof etc... Can this solve our European problem not having the Goop(s)?
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11-21-2002, 02:21 PM | #263 |
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It looks OK, but the spec sheet doesn't say much (you'd think it would!). It's a general purpose glue, probably more akin to JB Weld.
It's not a direct substitute for Goop. This one is a 2-part epoxy, Goop is a one part glue. |
11-21-2002, 02:54 PM | #264 |
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Thx Bb2k; thought that this would be something like marine goop, didn't know that goop is monocomponent...
Gonna look some more!
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11-22-2002, 04:22 AM | #265 |
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ehhe, tonight i finish dremeling, and then on to the infinite task of sanding and polishing.
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11-22-2002, 04:24 AM | #266 |
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sry for the bad pix, taken with a crappy cam at work
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11-22-2002, 04:41 AM | #267 |
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and the last one...
i would like to add a small word of THX for everyone that has contributed in this thread. without y'all it would have been most impossible for me to have gotten this far. i don't know much about other forums, but this one sure rox more than any other i've been on.
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11-22-2002, 04:55 AM | #268 | |
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Yipieeee!!!! We are approaching the end of this saga!
Man, it surely looks niiice all assembled like that! With some sanding and polishing, would sure look great, and considering it's all DIY....WOW!!! Congratulations on (almost) finished product!!! Now to ask one more question, are you gonna mount it with springs? Those Allen bolts heads are pretty close to the mounting holes, think it's go for springs or (dunno if this is right way to say it) countersunk the holes and use appropriate screws to be level with the upper surface of the block... LIKE IT! LIKE IT! LIKE IT!!! Think that after polishing, with the brass top, it would be ! Quote:
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11-22-2002, 05:23 AM | #269 |
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i have asked myself the same question about the springs. next time i will take into account some more place for the springs. at first sight anyway i don't thk it will be a problem for the spring placement. mounting them countersunk would offcourse be the bomb (+nibbling away some more grams of the way too heavy cooler)
i do have some fear if i will be able to get the block 100% leakfree, on some of the edges i have a bit less than 3mm for the glue. where 3rotor told us to keep a minimum of 3mm. from the 6m of copper i had to buy, i have now already sold 2m to someone, so that will work out just fine. the sanding is going to take ages, i thk, but i'm really looking forward to it.
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11-22-2002, 09:35 AM | #270 |
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I couldn't access the forums for couple of hours...was it my ISP DNS down or the site?
well... I'm gonna use the Bison epoxy, think that's the best thing I can find here (for now). In my block, I have also *barely* 3 mm to the edge, but think it will work. There's always the soldering solution... Today I found that inch tappers dispite they are *very rare* to find and buy here, are also tooooo expensive. The shop will have them next week, and the price is 120 bleeding Euro! Think I'm gonna have to take the block to the machine shop to tapper those three holes for me, and ask some more in hydraulics shop can they make me barbs with metric thread...live and learn... Glad to hear that you managed to sell some copper, and return the part of the money! Hope we'll be good to go and install the blocks very soon! Cheers m8!
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11-22-2002, 10:12 AM | #271 |
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I was having troubles connecting as well...
In the UK the best place to find expensive/rare/specialist tools is at an auction or tools fayre. we quite often have sales/markets that clear bankrupt or updated stock... Looked on Ebay?... one inch taps are gonna be expensive cause they are profesional/industrial sized, and priced for that market :shrug: . won't get one snapping on you in a hurry though! ... |
11-22-2002, 10:16 AM | #272 |
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live and learn, there you have it. let me know what the metric +/- m14 taps cost, those should be about the right size for the 1/2 hosebarbs in metric system.
i already laid the dough down for that stupid 1/4npt tap :-(
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11-22-2002, 11:24 AM | #273 | |
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Thx guys!
Tomorrow I'm going to the flea market, I hope that guy I was buying mill bits from will be there (buyed several times professional mill bits for 1 Euro/piece...maybe he'll have a whole mill for 50 Euro sometimes... ). He had some other tools on the table, but I was too eager picking the mill bits so I didn't look what else he has. Good thing that flea market, bought one papst 80 mm and one panaflo 80 mm fans for dirt cheap, and in the stores I can find only Sunon, nothing else... I'll have to get me an amex card and get used to search on Ebay...yeah, good idea... The thread on the barbs is 16.5 mm, 3/8 thread. Finding the 14 - 15 mm drill bit would be easy, but must look some more for those tappers. The problem is if the guy in hydraulics shop cannot make me barbs with metric thread (I think he done it on machine, not manually), than I'm stuck with this 3/8. Dunno... Anyway, today afternoon I left my block in the machine shop to thread me those three damn holes for barbs. I'm picking it up tomorrow afternoon... It won't be as I made it from a to z, but for now and for 115 Euro less, it will do... Quote:
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11-22-2002, 04:25 PM | #274 |
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ok, so u r in for a necessary pitstop
well, i went ahead, and tried sealing both halves. boy, that didn't work out too well. so , before u start using some nasty glue. STOP. what u want is a sort of rubbery joint, that can take the place of an O-Ring. some sort of bathroom silicone might work. remember, the clamping comes from the bolts... i used some hobbyist glue, luckily after noticing it leaked like mad, i was still able to pry both halves open. luckily? luckily i didn't use 2 component glue, or i would have never been able to open it again.
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11-22-2002, 04:45 PM | #275 | |
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Uhoh, the glue...#Rotor said to put a minute amount, but considering the small size of the gap between the halves, I can see the problem... Good thing you tried it with non-permanent glue... How to prevent leaking of the glue into the tapped Allen bolts holes, and glueing the bolts, also 'permanently'? Maybe the bathroom silicone you mentioned is a solution...Think it can stand the temperature, and surely is resistant to agressive chemicals. Good idea! Still, that minute amount troubles me... Like, put some silicone on my finger and try to spread it ultrathin and even so it won't run inside the block and tappered holes...microsurgery... :shrug:
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