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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums. |
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01-31-2001, 11:36 PM | #1 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 5
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Attaching Heater Core to Vinyl Tubing???
how do i do this. I think the heater core will have bigger "holes" than the vinyl tubing. i have a soldering iron but don't really know how to use it that well. Are there any solderless joints i can use like with the smaller copper tubing used in plumbing?? any ideas??
i think i am going to go with a heater core from a auto parts store in town that is only $20. it beats waiting on ebay for something to come up. any reasons not to buy one?? thanks in advance. |
02-01-2001, 12:47 AM | #2 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 228
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no, i got three of them...(1 i got on ebay, the other 2 i got from an autoparts store very cheap) 2 fans pulling air through the cooler ones down ot the hotter ones...water temp is 0.4 deg above ambient...kinda overdid it but i didnt think id be able to sell the radiator back on ebay
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02-01-2001, 09:55 AM | #3 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Eindhoven, Holland
Posts: 238
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go to the junkyard and get urself a nice heatercore for $10..
------------------ OC'ing is my middlename |
02-01-2001, 11:34 AM | #4 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Brandon, FL USA
Posts: 5
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I have picked up several good cores from my local salvage yard for around $8-$10 each. I have had the most luck with ones from a Ford truck series vehicle. i.e. ranger, f150, e150 etc. The cores are approximately 4"X8". All you will need to get them off is a good pair of vise grips and some penetrating oil.
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02-01-2001, 01:23 PM | #5 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 5
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okay, thanks. now how do i get them to connect to the vinyl tubing?? would home depot have something or any hardware store have some fittings i would "jb weld" on??
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02-01-2001, 01:28 PM | #6 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 228
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look at everyones pics...you dont wanna jb weld...alot of the time when you change your cooling config you gotta change hoses etc. use hose clamps...thats why the "nipples" have barbs
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02-01-2001, 01:37 PM | #7 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 5
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maybe i didn't explain very well. if i buy a heater core i will need to put on some of those brass fittings like on a waterblock. I have clamps to attach the tubing to the nipples or fittings, but i need a way to get the nipples onto the heater core openings. can i just use jb weld for that or not??
i wasn't going to weld the tubing on. sorry for the confusion. thanks for the reply |
02-01-2001, 02:23 PM | #8 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 228
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heater cores are radiators with 3/8" fittings used for heating in cars...kindof a second radiator for your engine.
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02-05-2001, 07:13 PM | #9 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: So Cal
Posts: 125
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well this is what i did.... because the outlet and inlets on mine are 5/8in i bought some 5/8" id and put that on the radiator. Then bought 1/2 in ID and put that in the 5/ 8in and sealed it with plumbers goop... then in the 1/2" i put my 3/8" and sealed that with plumbers goop. Also I have a question I have my radiator in the top of my full server case and it is a heater core. The outlets-inlets are facing down.. is there any down point to this?
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02-05-2001, 08:16 PM | #10 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2000
Posts: 77
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Yes... in this configuration, you'll get some air trapped inside the radiator.... probably not much, but it will accumulate there since it's the highest point (I assume). Try making an air trap on the radiator's inlet... or better yet, drill a whole in the top of the case and attach a "T" fitting to the tube... with the "T" having the straight-through part point up, and the perpendicular branch pointing sideways going to the radiator. Have the other side of the T stick through the case and put a threaded male fitting with a cap... in this way, you will have an air trap.. but you will also have a convenient place to add water to the system.
I did this with my pupm enclosure, and I also saw Joe do it on his DH3 project... works really well! |
02-07-2001, 09:09 PM | #11 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: So Cal
Posts: 125
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You mean that white cap thing that Joe used? Also, so while it's filling up should i just leave the cap undone, and once it is done cycling just cap it? but wont that just cause more air to get caught because I wont be able to cap the thing because of the little distance between the water and cap?
Should it look like this? (CAP) | | | RADIATOR(INLET)====== ------(T thingy) | | (PUMP) |
02-07-2001, 09:13 PM | #12 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: So Cal
Posts: 125
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well adjust it so the cap thingy and the pump goes on the T.... i suck at ASCII
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02-07-2001, 10:52 PM | #13 |
Cooling Neophyte
Join Date: Feb 2000
Posts: 77
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Well, if you did it that way and you took the cap off while the pump was running, you'd get water all over the place
Sorry, was kinda tired when I wrote that So, that configuration would be ok, just dont' have the pump running when you have the cap off. You can also have one on the return, and if it's right above the resivior (or right before the inlet to the pump if it's an inline pump), you'll probably be ok with leaving it off while the pump is on... because there will not be any flow restrictions to the pump, probably. Good luck! Be careful! [This message has been edited by Rich W (edited 02-07-2001).] |
02-09-2001, 12:38 PM | #14 |
Cooling Savant
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Eindhoven, Holland
Posts: 238
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??
ok i have a 16mm outlet on my heater core i've got a 16mm and 10mm hose... just put a little 16mm hose on... and put that 10mm in the 16mm hose... i had it working... but its a bleeder line on my setup... ------------------ OC'ing is my middlename |
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