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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 10-28-2002, 04:41 PM   #26
Puzzdre
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Hope your gf won't kill me...

The drill bits are pretty usual, not some extra grade stuff, I used some HSS-super ones, and also cobalt coated ones, found them locally, that means they are VERY easy to find, cost about 5 euro a piece.

Copper bars, that's another story. Spent approx 2 months to find any copper thicker than 2 mm here, finally got some bus bars (transformer bus bars, used), and now I know several places where to get them. Try looking into metal scrap yards. Still dunno where to buy thicker than 10 mm and brand new...:shrug:

I bet you'll find some good quality tools (even sec. hand) there.

Still, Hope your gf won't kill me...
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Unread 10-30-2002, 04:15 PM   #27
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Well, things are gettin' better. I got that chunk of copper cutted to the 80 x 50 mm pieces, now they are at the machine shop for further work (making them flat and exact size). I'll pick them up on monday.
In the mean time I managed to cut and flatten two 40 x 40 mm pieces for the chipse block.

Chipset block will be just like #Rotor's, and I'm planning to make two cpu blocks, one like #Rotor's and one like this, yellow thingies being the copper left after drilling...
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Unread 10-30-2002, 04:52 PM   #28
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looks like a high flow, high turbulance design. i like em that way.

as i hear u talking about all the stuff that is needed, it sounds kinda expensive. although the fun factor must be enormous.

i wish i could just buy any damn block i want in belgium. all u can get is maze3 and old swifty mcw462-a/b. if thats all i can get, i will have to make my own , out of misery.
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Unread 10-30-2002, 04:59 PM   #29
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Heh, consider yoursel kinda lucky, cos' here still aint no commercial made wblocks available. Not a single one. Recently I saw the site, some guys making and selling the drilled blocks similar to mine first, and that's about it.
Lucky me, Morphling is very close.

Still, yeah, the fun part is large. Not so expensive for now. I payed for 80 x 400 mm copper chunk somewhat 6 euro on scrapyard. Cutting and making flat woul cost me further 10 - 15 euro, but I'll end up with 7 good bases for wblocks. Dremel cutting wheels, 6 pcs 2 euro. Two good drill bits, 10 euro.
For now...
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Unread 10-30-2002, 05:08 PM   #30
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well, u r doing ok then...

but if i read fixxit's posts, he's got some preeetttyyy expensive machinery, and it still doesn't look all that great.

used to sell cnc woodcrafting machinery that ranged from 100.000€ to 400.000€ now that was some funky machinery...
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Unread 10-30-2002, 05:15 PM   #31
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Aaaarrghhhhh...

Just like BillA said, Zeros are the most expensive numbers...
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Unread 10-31-2002, 02:39 AM   #32
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Hey Puzzdre, you can use any size barbs on the sensor,use a reducer, does'nt matter if the sensor is restrictive cause the other channel is open for flow, as long as you get enough going through the sensor to show movement alls OK ...
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Unread 10-31-2002, 10:12 AM   #33
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Yup, that will do, now I have to find agood Y piece with somewhat 10 - 12 mm ID. That won't be so easy, cos I cannot buy one here, dunno if automotive parts stores have that kind of stuff. Maybe I'll make some somehow.

And seeing Volenti's solution for one way valve, I'm going to make one too...copycat...
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Unread 11-04-2002, 08:10 AM   #34
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Just a little update...
I'm gonna try both setups, serial and paralell pumps then decide which one to go...

Chipset block on the way...pics (more like scans cos I don't have digicam... )

first, grid on the chunk of copper
(somebody pls. enlighten me, how to post multiple pics in one post )
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Unread 11-04-2002, 08:11 AM   #35
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punched start holes into grid, removed the sticker, drilled and...
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Unread 11-04-2002, 08:16 AM   #36
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and ofcourse, forgot to attach the pic...stupid...
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Unread 11-04-2002, 08:22 AM   #37
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both halves, looking better in real than put in scanner and scanned...:shrug:
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Unread 11-04-2002, 09:58 AM   #38
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can't wait to see the finished block. so far it seems relatively doable with a drill on a standard; so long as , like u did, let someone else dimension the copper piece as needed. chipset and gpu blox don't seem to need ultra performance, just a good amount of flow.

btw, multiple pics can be done if u host them pix on some personal webspace and use the 'img' tag to adress the http'z of the pix.
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Unread 11-04-2002, 10:04 AM   #39
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Thx m8!!!

I thought that for multipic's I'll have to put them somewhere else!

As for the block, just picked my copper from machine shop, all perfectly sized and flattened. That will be the base for cpu block.

This one on the pic's I cutted myself with handsaw (had some 40 mm wide copper bar), sanded a little, than drilled today.

I think that tommorow I'll have enough time to drill one cpu block, and post the result.

Cheers!
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Unread 11-05-2002, 03:14 AM   #40
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oh yes. looking good... I see you had a little bit of a problem with some of te holes, drifting..... did you punch each hole, before you drilled, or did you just drill right through the printout...
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Unread 11-05-2002, 06:22 AM   #41
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Hi #Rotor,

Yes, I punched all the starting points, but drifting is caused partially due to my cheap drill press, paritally due to my 'puncher', I couldn't find any better (at home, without going to the store), so I used one bullet (12.7 mm slug) I had from past times, thought it would serve a good purpose at last , so the centering was mostly good, except in few holes. The worst holes are my first drilled, I put too much pressure on drill so the drill bit drifted towards neighbour hole. The others I drilled with less pressure on the end, turned out good.

This will be the chipset block, so I made it first, to make less mistakes on cpu block.

I thought that I'll be able to drill cpu block today, but it's snowing and pretty chill on my balcony, so dunno would it be done today or tomorrow.

Thx again for all the advices!
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Unread 11-05-2002, 07:01 AM   #42
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so basically, all you are using is a cheap drill press?
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Unread 11-05-2002, 08:37 AM   #43
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Yup, with some good quality drill bits...simple, fun, nice results, fun, and ofcourse, fun.
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Unread 11-05-2002, 03:17 PM   #44
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allow me to say, this manufacturing method is by far, the cheapest, as far as high tech equipment goes. it is also the most versatile as far as design options. It is the soul reason Why I can literally, in a matter of 10 minutes, communicating with someone on the other side of the world, design and finalize a 100% customized block,


to put it in another way.... If I was AMD, I would have been able to build you your CPU, to your spec, via Email and I would have been able to do so for less than the norm as far as mass produced product available.

and it's all thanks so this manufacturing method. It took me 4 years to get it fine tuned, And I'm still improving every time I make one.... the beauty of this.... doing it with CNC would greatly enhance accuracy and speed.... but it is absolutely not a requirement. a Steady hand and eye, and you will do just awesome... as them pictures prove, That for a very first effort... is way much better, than my first effort... My first one, ended up getting the hole cavity cleaned out... none of the holes was where they should have been
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Unread 11-05-2002, 04:47 PM   #45
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Wow!
Four years! Another thanks for sharing the info on manuf. the block! When somebody puts that much time in something, and literary gives it to the people, what can I say, BIG THANX!

Thx for encouraging words.

Tomorrow I'm going to buy a nice plexy shield for my face, and remove that crappy blurry piece of plastic shielding drill chuck, one cannot see anything through that.

One question though, I have couple of 3 mm mill bits here, would it be any improvement if I try to drill the holes with those flat end mill bits? It would be much trickier to centre the bit over the hole without xy table, but is it worth to try?
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Unread 11-06-2002, 02:36 AM   #46
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actually, the cone shaped ends of each hole, adds to the total surface area, as well as increasing the turbulence. endmills, are very "grabby" if you do not have proper retention on the workpiece.
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Unread 11-06-2002, 03:31 AM   #47
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Have you made a block where the holes are not directly one on top of the other before Rotor?, imagine stacking bottles on top of each other, on their sides. they each fit into the space between two others...
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Unread 11-06-2002, 02:51 PM   #48
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Indeed I have, you mean staggered, so that the centers of the holes in the top plate, are located over the pins in the bottom plate..... or do you mean like this....



problem with doing like this, the pins are so thin they can barely carry the heat all the way to there tips....
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Unread 11-06-2002, 03:45 PM   #49
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Im just curious, did you ever tried the circular hole pattern like I posted here? How did it work?

I'm still eager to try it, if anything, it would still look gorgeous on my comp desk here at home (I'm still impressed with the inside looks of that pieces I drilled two days ago... )
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Unread 11-07-2002, 01:15 AM   #50
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nice thread ya got going here, i thought i'd throw a little something into the mix. while you are talking about dual pumps, i came across some interesting heater cores:


I have been curious how these would do, specially the one with dual outlets. I picture res->5/8ID->pump->5/8ID->radIN->rad1OUT 1/2ID->cpu->1/2ID->res & rad2out 3/8ID->gpu->nb->3/8ID->res
this would provide higher flow thru cpu where its needed, and less thru the chips. also only the nb would be getting second hand water. i'm not sure where you'd put a second pump in this setup. why are you wanting 2 pumps anyway? are those the only ones available there and you don't feel one would be enough?


peace.
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